bigboybanshee

I ran 20-10-10 American racers too when I was on asphalt. Stock frame 350 on gas. Great tire.

I would recommend using a guzzler. Mine would make it through 300' but not much further, then again, my carbs are bigger than yours.

If you run a guzzler and gut the gas cap you more than likely won't need a pump for that engine. I've been feeding a 10mil DM w/ 44 lectrons, billet bowls and a guzzler valve for 3 years, no pump, no issues. This is for 300' though. I'm also a big advocate of not running a pump if you don't have to...

You're a lucky man, I change my plugs before every race. I purge my bike longer than most though, I have a touch of OCD and make absolute certain the cases have been flushed, lol

If you want a set, let me know. I have a pair in great shape that I'll sell. They're stretched out on a wider wheel giving you more contact patch with the dirt. Polished wheels. They worked great on my bike pushing 130+ HP

Sold

Here is an example of a bottle I have polished in the past for a customer:

2.5 lb Nitrous bottle. As pictured, $125 shipped. I can remove the gauge and sell just the bottle for $100 shipped. I can polish the bottle to a mirror shine before shipping for an additional $50

I need to dig them out first before I commit to anything. They've been sitting in a box in a corner of my garage for 5 years. I want to go through them, clean them out, make sure everything is there. I'm real big on not selling anything that's not in excellent shape and I can't vouch for it at this point. If you're in a hurry to pick some up, you may be better off buying the ones on ebay. I probably won't be able to get in the garage and dig them out until this weekend, and even then, they may be missing jets or needles. Just being honest

I was actually going to suggest you ask your builder. I don't take any offense to it. Nothing wrong with you making sure it'll work for your configuration. I've got some 39 PWK's but they're not setup for alcohol. They're setup for gas and have nitrous nozzles installed in them...

I wouldn't say it's the norm, it's a shorter ratio than the "standard" gears you see running around. These are used, I bought them from Askin Motorsports at a planetsand race for $250 and I never used them. I bought them because I had plans to build another stock cylinder drag bike. I felt the shorter ratio would be better for a smaller engine, especially with my weight (275 lbs). Let me know if you end up wanting them, or if you'd like to see better pics, I can take close-ups of the teeth. The gears are in great shape though. I believe they retail for $300+ I am selling off all my spare parts in preparation to throw in the towel after this year, more to come soon.

Pro wedge 2's are what you need.

I got the perfect straight cuts for you, 2.91 ratio, $225 shipped anywhere in the US

May I ask what your intentions are for wanting different spindles? If it's to accomodate a wheel, then you can adapt the 5/8 straight wheel to a tapered banshee spindle by simply changing the wheel bearings.

10mm DM Stock ratio primaries 16/41, 1-5 transmission, leave in second Tire height: 22" 300' dirt 2 - 49.13 3 - 59.35 4 - 71.23 5 - 85.2 The calculator seems to be pretty close, I have several timeslips in the 80-82mph range.

Clean them both to ensure there is no dirt in either of them

Not trying to be a smartass, but the person who ported the engine would know what pipes work best with their portwork. Some pipes perform better than others depending on the portwork and setup.

lol, actually you did, dumbass. Read your first line of this post. If you want serious low end power then you'd be better with a 4 stroke. You're not going to get serious low end power from a 2 stroke, they make their power in the powerband. Maybe you should try and trade your bike for a 4 stroke.

I know where everyone is coming from, saying to use the site sponsers, and you should when it makes sense, but for something as simple as having a bore job done, and you have someone local to do it, I would go the local route. To me, there's no sense in sending it across the country to have something done that your local shop can do. You actually have several shops in your area that can do the work you need. I'd take the cylinders up to the shop and have them order the pistons and bore them for you, and then order the rest of the stuff online from sponsers, like a new cool head, gaskets, etc. I guess part of my reasoning also is I have lost faith in the postal service/UPS/Fedex...I've seen too many damaged parts from them punting your package across the shipping facility, or the courier tossing packages on the doorstep. I do as much as I can locally before venturing out. It's also nice to be able to see the work before it leaves the shop so if something appears wrong, you can have it fixed right then and there. Just my .02

Before jumping off the deep end, more than likely you have a stuck float. Sometimes you can resolve the issue by taking a screwdriver and firmly tapping the bowl with the handle. If you just picked up the bike, I'd recommend pulling the carbs off and thoroughly cleaning them. You can check the float height to ensure it's where it needs to be. Put the carbs back together and see if the problem persists. You don't even have to remount the carbs, you can just hook a fuel line up to one or both and turn the fuel on, see if it starts leaking. If you do it that way, make sure you are holding the carbs upright. A small piece of debris could be in your carb resting against the seat, keeping the float from going all the way up and causing the carbs to flood. I'd definitely try cleaning the carbs, inspecting, and measuring your floats first before switching carbs.

I imagine you'd need to put something on both sides of the plate. I've never installed a plate before, I just know where they go, lol. I'm not sure what size base gasket you're using, but if it's .020, I personally would try to find two .010 gaskets to use. That may not be how it's done but that's what I would assume. I'm sure someone who's put one on can verify about the gaskets. After you're done installing the cylinders, rotate your pistons around to ensure they do not stick out the top of the cylinder. Once you know they won't hit the dome, install your head. A lot of people don't run spacer plates at all, they have the cylinders ported for the 4mil stroke, and have domes cut to accomodate the piston rising out of the cylinder.

Is your stator cover bolt a phillips head or allen head bolt? For your petcock, if it was the gasket, it would leak all the time no matter which position it's in. It sounds like you need a new petcock to me.

Yes, given that your carbs are in sync

Yes, it affects when the piston passes the ports. Putting the spacer plate above the cylinder basically just keeps your piston from smashing into the dome with the 4mil crank. The purpose of the spacer plate is to move your port timings up to match the 4mil crank, AND to keep the pistons from smashing into the domes. Being that your piston is not in the correct spot in the cylinder means it's not passing over the ports correctly and I imagine that would have an effect on your compression reading.

I ran a set of 34PJ's in the past and they were a pain to get the bike to idle right, for me at least. I ended up getting it to idle smooth by adjusting the throttle cable. I just fired the bike up, held it just above idle to keep it running, then adjusted the throttle cable till it ran smooth on it's own with no throttle. Once you get the idling fixed, I bet your responsiveness will improve