bigboybanshee

Could be worn steels, wrong spring pressure, dry clutches...it's always best to do this stuff yourself

Best thing to do is talk to David Noss and ask him. Not trying to be a smartass, but he knows his product well and has probably talked to people at almost every elevation possible. He would know exactly what size dome to sell you with the head.

Advance the timing, lightened flywheel, dyna ignition, lighten the chassis, all will give you a noticable gain. You won't get anything significant without changing the stroke, but if you just want some more pep, any one of those mods will do that...

You need to check with whoever did the portwork. They are the best person to help you. No one is going to be able to guess and get it any closer than you could.

The bowls aren't the problem, your floats aren't set correctly. Fix that, no more overflow. It's just that simple.

I'm guessing you didn't read that thread with info about adjusting your cable to correct the issue with one side running leaner than the other. If it idled ok with the 55, then you should have left that alone and only adjusted your mains. Main jet is not for idling, it's for wide open throttle. Your needle and needle position control throttle response from off idle to wide open throttle. If it seems too lean on top with the 152, then put a 155 in there and adjust your needle clip position until it revs crisp and clean. Once you find the right jet for the main (when your plugs show it) then you adjust your needle to get a smooth transition. If you try every clip position and it won't rev clean, then you might need to change the needle to get the correct taper.

I'm sure they have...but more than likely ran a pump

There's nothing wrong with running in colder temps, you just have to know how to work on and tune your bike to do it. I guess if colder temps equalled trouble, no one would be ice racing in Michigan, right? LOL My cylinders usually run around/within 50-75 degrees of each other, but that's using an EGT. If both your plugs look good, I wouldn't worry about it. If you have one that's hot and the other is cold, then you have something to be concerned about.

Does it do this with this with the air filter(s) off too?

I was going to ask how the hell do you bore the head...but then you said 66 and realized you are talking about the cylinders. Realize that on 66, your next bore will require a re-sleeve or buy another set of cylinders

I can't tell you exactly what happens when you run non-resistor plugs, I just know there is a potential for interference. I have always been told to run resistor plugs, so I have...

15 tooth is no problem. You might have to shave the case saver a little to accomodate it, but you won't have to remove much, if any material to fit a 15T sprocket. All the case savers I have seen go over the neutral switch cover. I also suggest staying away from billet, go with plastic or a "soft" material. Tyler is correct, you want it to absorb the impact, not transfer the energy.

I noticed a difference in ET and seat of the pants feel without programming my dyna FS. Removed stock CDI, plugged in Dyna FS, ran curve 3, and saw a very pleasant gain in performance. Been running one for about 5 years. Just make sure you decrease your timing plate by roughly 3-4 degrees when you use the dyna. Its factory curves are about 4 degrees over the stock CDI. Also use a resistor plug

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152276 Read this thread

If its rich on the top end you need to go down with the main jet, not up. Pilot sounds about right but you will increase the sputtering if you go to the 165.

Seems really rich to me, I'd go down to a 152 main and maybe 52 pilot.

It sounds like a lean condition to me. Try richening the needle.

x2 on the digitron. I've had one for several years, I love it.

Dumb question, but are you sure that carb is getting fuel from the tank? Otherwise... Time to check compression.

Don't forget you could also go up 3 teeth on your rear sprocket instead of going down 1 on your front. Or go 2 up on the rear to get somewhere between 1 tooth down if you only want a slight change. It will give you a similar effect and will put your chain at a better angle helping it to rotate easier. Will keep your sprockets and chain happier, gaining more life from them. I personally wouldn't go to 13 in the front, I think it's too much stress on the chain. Sure, it'll work, but it puts a hurtin on your drivetrain. Better efficiency frees up power. Just my thoughts!

Before going too far, try this just for shits and giggles. On the left carburetor, adjust and raise the slide slightly (while the bike is running) and see if that corrects the issue. I cannot stress how many times I have adjusted my carbs by eye and they looked right, but were still off. It doesn't take much at all to cause the cylinders to be off. The carb sync tool I bought proved to me that even though they appear to be in sync, they can still be off.

I suppose reeds could cause it, I've just never heard of one side wearing out faster than the other. Usually wear happens pretty evenly. Have you flipped the reeds over to see if that helped? What was the rate of flow on your carb sync tool?

IMO it could be one or more of 4 components. Carbs. Out of sync by either the idle/air screws, jets, or throttle cable. (considering both carbs are squeaky clean). If the jets and air screws are matched, I highly recommend a carb sync tool if you're not 100% sure the cables are perfect. The slides may appear to be moving at the same rate, but they can still be off enough to cause this problem. A carb sync tool will tell you the rate of flow through the carb, ensuring both sides are drawing equally. Ignition. Possible wire going bad, plug fouled out, or coil simply crapping out. Make sure you have fresh plugs and try swapping the plug wires to see if the problem switches sides. If you have fresh plugs and the problem does not move when you swap wires, then you can eliminate the ignition. Air supply. If you're running a single filter then this doesn't apply, but if you run dual filters, one could be dirtier than the other causing one side to be rich, thus causing the cylinder to be flooded and not allowing it to build heat. Pull off both filters and start the bike and see if the problem still exists to eliminate this possibility. Compression. If one side is significantly lower, it won't ignite all the fuel and will run rich, not allowing the cylinder to build heat. Run a compression test. Typically it's one of the first 3 mentioned, most commonly the first. Most people can tell when it's compression due to the significant loss in power though...You "could" have a leaking head, but in that case, you'd also have a sweet smelling exhaust and notice your coolant missing. No one's mentioned that so I didn't consider it to be a factor.

I got a nice billet intake w/ internal crossover tube from FAST racing years ago. It wasn't for stock carbs, but you could call him and ask if he has one for stockers, or see if you can order new boots for it to accomodate stock carbs. I ran the stock airbox with that setup because I too rode through a lot of mud and puddles.

You can send them to pingel and they can rebuild it. Worth a call, it should be cheaper than buying a new one http://www.pingelonline.com/fuel_valve_rebuild.htm