trail rider

yea, u can ride with out an idle kit on board......you'd just be tapping that throttle every 1/2 second, which would get old really quick! unless somehow u pull out the cables a lil from the carb tops and tape em.

the mudcool person in my opinion is prolly some 40yr old computer wiz who gets his kicks and giggles by doing this shit. if ya think about it, it could be true.

damn, 80:1 never heard of anyone using that ratio before in their banshee? Guess that must be some pretty good shit to be mixed that thin. I've mostly ran klotz R50 at 40:1, but I've tried other stuff like belray MC1 at 50:1 and castor 927 at 40:1. Couldn't really tell no difference between them. I just think that the castor 927 smells the best and the belray MC1 makes your gas turn blue . But I mostly use R50, I dont know why, guess it just feels better using it than other oil.

I'm gonna go out on a very VERY tiny and long limb and say that cutegirlracing, and rxp or whatever his name is is mudcool....i know it sounds weird but it could be true lol. in my opinion its all one person with several names. gasp. anyone following me on this?

ok so i'm thinkin about modding the shift star but what i want to know is if it can be done at home, i've got the tools to do it all i need to know is how much to take off on the humps and any precautions to look into when doing it.

this has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the subject on hand, but just wanted to say that....Mr ballance lives like mebbe 10 miles from me lol..i have seen his yfz up close and its pretty tricked out with all the goods and shizzits.

Can't we all just play with our toys in peace? ........and if someone gets mad, then they can reply with ..."Well if your going to be an asshole, then i mite just take my toys and go play with someone else"

wait a tick.... are we talking about the play in the rocker arms? well if we are, my feeler gauge is in my fingers. all i do is check to see if they have a very small about of give..ya know?

yo guys i was feeling pretty bored this weekend so i made some struts to put on the front end of the shee. i think it looks pretty sick. mebbe bumpy but it will hook up in second and never wanna raise up. sry guys i cant get it to load.

well, my guess would be that the cylinder that lags on you might not be getting fuel right away? Have you checked your reeds to see if anything doesnt' look right? Like maybe something might be gummed up or somthing until it warms up and clears out?.

Another tire you could try is some pure sports bandits. I had a used set, had about a half inch or more of tread left with the edges starting to round off. I cut every row with the angled knobs out, leaving 2 rows together, and 1 missing in between each set, ( like what loco is talking about) They worked pretty good, especially when i reversed them and used the hooked part in the center tread. They hooked up really good in loose stuff, had a time keeping the front end down. Tried em in mud and they throw some awesome roost. Hooked up fair on hard pack, but im sure the would do alot better with a new set that wasn't wore down. And they still made a very good trail and hill climb tire, easy to slide around and kick loose when you wanted to and hook up when you wanted to. And had no problems riding on pavement, had a pretty good humm to em at speeds but didnt vibrate much, but like any dirt tire, they probly wouldnt last long.

after i installed the tempertature guage on the shee, i got readings of around 150(when riding hard) and about 125-130ish(when ideling around....my question is, is it getting the coolant that has already ran through the radiator, or coolant that has just come from the motor? its hooked to the 3/8 hose on the top right of the radiator. i figured the shee would run around 180 or so.

The lucas oil additive? isn't it that real sticky thick like oil? I aways put some of that in my truck when i change the oil in it. Does that effect the clutch or anything, being that its pretty thick and sticky? I'd like to try it but i dont know what/if it would do anything to the clutch or anything

hey NYUK how much did u pay for urs? do u got it pimped out like ur shee?

just wondering if anybody has a pocket bike, i do and i think its a blast!

I had the exact same thing happen to me on my cr 125 the other day. I was goin wide open and it started losin power and missin, i thought it was a fouled plug at first. then it quit on me, i had a spare plug with me and changed it, and it still would'nt start. Then i noticed that i had no compression at all. So i pull the head and the piston has a nice, neat little chunk missing from the exhaust side, and you could see the ring. But i didnt have not even a scratch or anything in the cylinder or head, nothing at all. I read on the eric gorr site that it was a head gasket leak that cause'd the piston to break like that. the coolant that enter'd the combustion chamber hits the piston and makes it weak and brittle untill it breaks off. I did notice that i was low on coolant after some rides earlier and seen some black on the head gasket where the piston chunk broke off at. I guess i was pretty damn lucky though, could have been alot worse.

are they gonna keep this on their site forever, or just untill they update it with the new models, with no banshee in the lineup . I hope they never get rid of the banshee history cause just think, years from now people who have never seen a banshee will be able to look at that and say, "that must have been one bad ass machine, wish they still made em today"

thx for the replies, i will prolly just turn the valve around like bat said. that would work lol

ok, so i dont wanna spend the money for wheel spacers, i've heard of turning the stock wheels around and putting a "L" bend valve stem so it doesnt hit the caliper, am i right? the caliper is pretty close so i don't think it would work. has anyone ever tried to pull the valve stem, weld it, and drill a hole on the other side of the rim? i think it would work. any advice?

right now i have some tusk heavy duty clutch springs in, and i still have the stock springs, new clutch plates...my question is if i go back to stock springs, will the plates wear faster? or does it just reduce arm pump and the clutch cable wear? cause i just broke the cable. should i change the springs or not?

the ground goes through the bolt that holds the voltage regulator on its the little square silver box

The ground wire on my shee was broke for a long time ( I think), i noticed it one day when i was messing with the tail light. it had never affected the electrical system or compoents.

my friend brought his 400 over so we could help him change his bearings. we have everytihng out except for the races of the bearings. we've tried punching them out, tacking a punch to them...and then punching them out, right now cant try heat cause no oxygen in tank. and im out of ideas. is it possible to drill it out? any advice would be appricated greatly! bearings just arent my thing.

well we had a old pair of intake boots, and we used the head gasket and a piece of paper to cover it up. there is no paint on the cylinders im sure of it. the pistons are almost tight to the walls, besides though they arent supposed to be super tight right? thats where the rings come into play. i'll have to check the tops of the pistons again to find the numbers.

Besides the paint used is engine paint, its made to with stand 500 degrees.