trail rider

it'd be cool if somebody that makes alot of four wheeler videos made like a documentary or somethin about the banshee. like they'd show the history and all the different years/colors and show the tons of different aftermarket products for it. and then it would show and interview people with every type of banshee, drag, duning, XC, MX, trail, backyard bashers, and even a rare stock banshee

is this for like a banshee music video or something?if so, I think a good one would be "wide open" by soil

if there was a blaster that could beat a banshee, i'd sures hell like to see it run

Well, the way I see it is, to correctly replace the seal you have to split the cases (takes like 5 or 10 mins if you know how, cause its very simple ) . the seal has a little groove where it fits in the case in front of the crank bearing. And I would think if you tried just forcing it in without the cases split, it would just fuck the seal up and it would leak. if the seal looks the same on both sides or has manuf. marks on both sides, then it shouldnt matter which way you put it in or it would specificly say so in the instructions or something.

no I have the cases split right now, im still waiting on my hot rods crank to come in. And thats what I have been doing is shifting through the gears (while also turning the sprocket) and most of the time it will hang up between two gears, like its not being shifted all the way or something . but when I pull the gear rows out of the case and shift through em, it does perfect. maybey this is normal, i dont really know, I guess I'll find out when I get it back together and ride it . Oh and that shift point adjuster thing, it really does adjust it. if you look closly it has a lobed side and it changes how the hooked part on the shifter thing grabes the little peg things on the star when you screw it in or out.

Could someone help me figure out what could be wrong? I had my shift star modded by boonman, along with my flywheel lightened. And since I installed it, it hasn't been shifting gears right. Like when I drag race or shift the gears fast, sometimes it would hit neutral like between 2nd and 3rd or between 4th and 5th and occasionally pop out of gear if I didnt shift hard enough. I dont have it running right now though, I got the motor took apart/cases split cause im putting in a new crank and topend. but I did try adjusting the screw thing that the manual said and it would help some what. and it was kinda hard when I tried to shift through the gears to see if I could spot what was wrong. like betwen some shifts the gears wouldnt engage completely, and on the star the little arm would be stuck on a point of the star rather than down in the low parts, like it was being half shifted. and also, I never had any problems shifting before I had the modded shift star.

since we live close to bill balance we just go and get razars from him, I think it was $100 dollars for all four tires practically brand new, only used in one race, and he threw in like three sets of back tires for free cause they had a couple of holes in them. They wear kinda fast on the banshee though, we put them on both our 400ex and shee and the ones on the 400 still look brand new, but the ones on the shee have only like 1/4 inch left mostly due to spinning

well, to sum it all up, I could use a whole new motor . But I got this thing cause I wanted one cheap to fix up, like a project or something, but this one turned out to have a little more problems than I first expected. I already bought some stock 2005 cylinders on ebay and I should be getting them any day. and I may just end up geting a vito's crank and new flywheel, stator and adj. stator plate. And one more problem I noticed was that the gears have alot of play in them, like when I hold the countershaft and turn the mainshaft gear, it has alot of play, way more than the tranny in my other banshee. Any one know what this could be? and one more quick question, is a hot rods crank reliable for a pretty much stock motor? it just has pipes as the only big performance part.

If you cant get the long swing arm bolt out, the easiest and fastest way is to just take a sawsall with a metal blade and cut it out, but you have to get a new bolt.

GSXKID im in the same boat you are. I traded this nice runing little blaster for this ragged out banshee that a guy was selling for 1500. it was rough, but it had alot of aftermarket stuff too. And I still aint sure even what exact year it is . its got a rear end of an 87-88, dark gray and yellow plastic which is like a 97 or 98, and the viv # on the frame doesnt matchup with anything . but the worst damage is that some idiot befor must have been going wide fuckin open and the chain derailed and totally fucked up and busted the stator and the top and bottom part of the case are broke off and it leaked tranny fluid in one little spot, but its jb welded. the flywheel is so fucked up it looks like some idiot took a hammer and just beat the hell out of it. the stator plate is broke and they welded/rigged some piece of metal to hold the thing that makes the spark on the flywheel. and the crankshaft is bent where you screw the flywheel nut on. but it ran when I got it , I even rode it a little in the drive way befor I got it, but I didnt ride it once I got home. I was to excited that I had to tear into the motor . the clyinders are bored like .100 over and are pretty messed up, hell they didnt even have head studs in them, the guy used long bolts to hold the head on. so I just bought stock cylinders on ebay, should be getting em soon. I think I might end up getting another stock crank and a kit I saw on ebay with the flywheel, stator and wiring, and adjustable ricky stator plate for $250 but first I gotta get the main banshee goin again, the big end rod bearing went out while goin 6th gear and I have never seen such a mess that it did. Im gonna get a hot rods crank. these are pretty reliable for a stock motor, right?

alright thanks a bunch man, thats exactly the answer I was looking for. I was just expecting someone to just say they were total shit and to just get some other big name expensive brand. But I think i've finally found which a-arms to get. thanks

I seen some asr +2 +1 arms on ebay for a really good price and was wondering if anyone has/uses them and what they thought of them. their caster/camber adjustable and come with the longer tie rods and stuff. Can I use the stock tie rod ends or would I have to buy some from them?

Rocky mountain atv has a bearing and seal kit by All Balls for $80 i think

are your cases split? I dont know for sure but I think thats the only way to put the crank seals in correctly and without damageing them, cause they have this little lip thing in the center of the seal and grooves in the cases where they set. I have just got done spliting the cases on both of my banshee's. just the other day my main banshee blew out the big end rod bearing while in 6th gear and I swear, I've never seen a bigger fucking gom' in all my life . and my other banshee I just bought for a project, it needed new crank bearings and seals and the clutch side seal had the ass chewed off cause it looked like the previous owner didnt put it in right and the gear chewed it up. but as for putting the seals in backwards, I didnt know which way either so I tried both ways to see if it fit or sealed differently, but either way looked like it would work fine. and BTW I used all balls bearings and seals.

Magic Racing has a pretty good price on a top end kit. I think its like $159 for pistons, rings, circlips, needle bearings, and gasket set. and they ship pretty fast, depending on where your at. they are in michigan and it only takes 2 days and my stuff is settin on my door step . but im in kentucky, which isnt very far from there.

anybody here use armadillo a-arms? I was thinking of getting some for my banshee, they're priced pretty cheap at rocky mountain atv. I only trail ride and drag race and play around and stuff so I really dont need a really tough expensive a-arm. and these have replaceable ball joints which is one thing i wanted with aftermarket a-arms. But if I got the +2, could I still use the stock shocks? would it make the front end softer with wider a-arms with stock shocks?

Does anybody have a set of cases top and bottom, i need them because the left side is busted from the chain popping off.

me and my brother just got another banshee, traded a blaster for it. they guy only wanted $1500 for it cause its in pretty rough condition and has been rode hard and rigged. it starts ok and everything but the clutch slips bad and it needs a whole lot of shit to even be coinsidered decent or even safe to ride. the chain came off and busted up the case around the sprocket and has a spot that is jb welded and I think it leaks a little. we have it striped down to the frame right now and this thing deffinatly needs a top end. im still surprised it ran in the first place. the cylinders are pretty rough looking and the left one has a big gouge in it as well as the piston. and im am certain this thing has been bored to the max cause the cylinders on my other banshee are alot thicker. and it didnt have but 2 head studs , the rest were long bolts that somebody used to replace the studs. and almost all the threads have been gom'd up and striped. So, what should I do?? I've considered maybe resleeving these cylinders and fixing the head studs, Or just finding new cylinders on ebay. I have found a deal on a pair of stock cylinders, head, and pistons all together for $300. which would be the easiest/cheapest way to do this?

I use maxxis sur traks for mud and stuff. They are a pretty good tire and can be reversed for different applications.but they are kinda heavy 22's so if your still stock with the motor you could maybe gear down. they have a pretty deep tread and last a long time. and they are a great trail tire

same here. Or if they dont have that I use the belray 2 stroke transmission oil. to me it looks like the same stuff

Im almost the same, except my cr 125 is a 00 model with fatty pipe and my banshee with just bill's pipes, razar tires,. me and my brother raced a 300 ft drag on dirt, him on the banshee and me on the bike, and if i got a good start I could lead him till the last 50 or so feet where I would top out and he'd blow by me. A 125 tops out way to fast to win against a banshee, enless your racing maybe 200 foot and your a really good rider.

That sounds like alot of extra work. my frame is powder coated too (blue) and it didnt scratch it too bad, well actually you would never know it unless you stick your head up under there behind the rear shock and look for it . Is there any way to prevent this, or do you just have to take the swingarm off every so often and grease it up to keep it from seizing?

Had the same problem, my swingarm bearings were eat up/non existant/ however you want to put for a while and I didnt know, it and the swimgarm was so loose it looked like it was held on by zip ties . I tried everything mentioned above and all, beat my brains ( and fingers off) with a hammer and finally came down to using the sawsall. I cut between the frame and swingarm on the shifter side. come out easy after that.

I think he's caught on to the mass amounts of sarcasm if both riders are about the same skill level and its about a 300-400 ft drag and as long as its not wet grass, then you should win easy. Ive raced a piped kfx 400 in about a 500 ft spot in a field and he would launch it hard and holeshot, but as always i'd pull away at the end .

so christmas afternoon me and a few others decide to go riding.......while its all muddy and stuff. im out in front on the shee tearing it up. as i'm heading up a hill climb thats twisted and crap i'm riding the powerband the whole way, there was a bunch of small pine trees on the right. the back tire bairly clips one of em, and it puts me heading right towards a good sized pine tree....about 6 in wide. i whoped that tree about 3rd gear w.f.o.! it threw me off to the ground. i got up and got to looking and saw these things...... first i looked at my bumper....broke it on the side.....then i noticed my a-arm....it busted the fuck out of it tore the front bottom mounting bracket loose and shit. basically made it look like a v in the middle. so the next day(today) my bro and i decide to fix it. we took an old a-arm that had a bad ball joint in it , cut it off rite at the end, took the busted a-arm and also cut it off there too. swaped ends and welded the good ball joint on the old a-arm whiped it all back together and it looks like it holds good. i know i know its stupid but its just temperary because when we was welding it the rubber on the ball joint got hot and busted. which means it wont be long before it wears out. i think i can already feel it gettin loose .