sredish

I'll take that grab bar, so long as it's in good condition and not beat to hell. Seems to be from the pic. Let me know how you want to settle.

awww c'mon, lets see a vid of you on your Passion lined up with a nice bomber

what riding style??? if you dune, it might not be best, but if your a woods/trail rider, it will probably be a good way to go. they make really good low / mid power but don't have much top end, so suit the pipe with your riding style. if you still want some good low and mid and don't want to sacrifice too much top end, look at some Paul Turner Mids or some FMF Fatties.

being that you have a 38mm, that throws me off a little. More air = more fuel, but being a bigger carb, you won't have as much velocity so the fuel might be pretty close. if you had a 35, I'd say maybe a 180, so you might bump it up to a 180 or 185 and see what you got. my personal gut feeling is 170 is gonna be a little lean, but it's really kind of a guessing game anyway. i'd start the needle in the 4th clip and see how it works. pilot might be good around 50.

dyno charts have proven that the stock carbs produce the best numbers through a moderately ported motor. so, unless your looking for more bottom end and want to buy a single carb setup, get the reeds. single carb setup is very nice, i run one and they will give you much more low end and more top end to boot over the stock carbs, reeds are always nice, but they won't give you as much benefit as the single carb, you could always get the single carb and new reed petals.

sup bro. one caution, if you search like fixitrod mentioned, your wallet will mysteriously empty. dunno why...

yea yea yea, i got a x-ring around my dick, the ladies love it...

I think the Maxxis Razr2 fronts are the shit. They grab hard on tight hardpack, but get in the soft stuff and tha center line will keep you going good. I run a bigger tire, 22x7x10 and it floats pretty good. Kenda Klaw fronts are supposed to be really good as well, but haven't ran them.

Not much, just instead of the ring that seals the chain being in the shape of an O, it's in the shape of an X, if you were looking at a cross section. They're both really the same, they just say the ring shaped as an X will hold lube in longer. I dunno, I just use a regular O ring chain. I know a lot of people that run non oring chains in the sand, just be sure to clean them and keep them lubed. Personally, I'd use a good strong oring with a tensile strength of 7,000 or more. I've been using a Renthal R-3 Oring chain for well over a year and not one single problem. DID is another chain you can't go wrong with. RK makes a good chain as well, it's your choice, just make sure it's strong.

Let me know how you like that Trailtech, I've been thinking about getting one. As far as the plug chop, I wouldn't even worry about cutting your plugs until your able to get into it full throttle, just make sure there's some good color on them after about 20 minutes or so. Good luck and you can come and do mine next if your feelin froggy.

one word: FAGOT

what more can you ask for??

That's why you don't buy AC. Everything from AC that I've heard people buy all have that same problem. I'd swap you straight across if it's the wider bar, but I need my taillight. Don't remember how the light mounts, bar or frame.

Well, in theory, your mods shouldn't change too much, but with any modification to the motor, including overboring 1 size, you will need to take it easy through break-in and check your plugs. Obviously, after a fresh top end, you can't go right out and run a WOT test, but fire it up and run around, after you've checked your "after top end" compression, and check your plugs to make sure they're plenty colored. Once break-in is complete, go ahead and do a wot jet check and make sure your jetting still matches your setup, you might have a little variance and then you may not have any. Regardless, it shouldn't be much at all, if anything.

WTF, did they already send you back home??? J/K, didn't expect to be hearing from you so soon.f Be safe!

Damn, what's the vertical rise on that biatch.

Damn boon, i thought you already got rid of that thing. Looks pretty nice and i bet it's fun to clean. Hey, where are you in those pics, you got the wifey??

on or off = peaky powerband, either no power or freakin huge power. more like low rpms no power and as your power climbs in rpm, then the power comes on. to ride trails with pipes like these, you'd be clutching a lot, more for high rpm riding.

CPI have more low/mid power. Not that they're mid power houses, but the CPIs do come on sooner and harder in the low/mid. I'd go for the CPIs personally. I don't think they make anymore power, but the Shearers peak about 500 or so higher in the rpms.

and save you dental bills...

Banchetta, can you post a dyno sheet with PT's sometime? I'd love to see a comparison between those and the Fatties.

Fatties - overall power. good low, great mid, good added top Gnarly - low/mid power. great low to mid power, less top end Pro Circuits from what I've gathered, no personal experience, are similar to Fatties, but maybe a tad less low and a tad more top, but they're not specifically a top end pipe. Ask ledofthezep about them. You can't go wrong with the Fatties, they are one of the most inexpensive pipes, but are very very good performers and their performance compares to more expensive pipes. I run FMF Fattie pipes by the way.

Bonham gets kinda small quick, I've heard. Never actually ridden there. Rip Char is said to be pretty nice, but I haven't been there either. We need to make it down there, kind of a group deal. I go to Lake Murray a lot, but that's a heck of a long ways from Dallas. BansheeJen Roosthrower txblueshee Banshee76179 Sredish dalegoldston 98bonerSTOCKshee (nice name BTW) and I'm sure there's more. I've got a few people here I could bring as well.