blueshee03

call andy at GRAND RIVER RACING 616-642-6186.he makes the best banshee swingarms for drag racing .very high quality , light weight and can make any length ,chromed or powder coated,with or without wheelie bar mount just about any way you want it.great price too.andy is a wonderful guy to deal with and talk also. heres a link to his site: grand river racing

i would'nt say they are one of the worst sellers on ebay.they do give smokin deals and the only thing i have to complain about is they are a lot of times slow shipping parts out.

i don't know about that but in my oppinion ,stock ported cages are every bit as good as vforces .i've seen a couple bikes go from stock ported to vforces and could not see any real gains.at least not enough that makes me wanna pay the price they cost.

go for it !!jim's 12 port is a very strong running engine.

where do you run quarter mile snowprophet?

i've used them ,they work fine.alot of ebc's aftermarket clutch fibers are the same ones used in street bikes such as fzr's and such

agreed,craptors aint no match for a good running shee.

i have a chromed stock 4 bolt sprocket hub for banshee for sale or trade .in great condition ,i'm asking 40.00 shippedhttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j65/bansheedr/chromehub002.jpg[/img]]sprocket hub

if your at stock bore ,don't bore it anymore than you have to.boring does'nt give any significant power increase.it only causes your cylinders to need resleeved sooner.so if your at stock and it needs bored ,go to 10 over or just what it takes to clean up the cylinder bores.

did you connect the tube between the carbs?

i'll agree there cadillac.in my oppinion stock ported are every bit as good if not better then v forces.

turbo blue 115+ with 927 40:1 here.last season i payed 4.70 a gallon ,not sure on price this season.the drags i run ,you must run race fuel and watch the oil you mix in it because other wise it won't pass the fuel test.our fuel can't be oxiginated or have any traces ofalcohol in it.sunoco won't pass fuel tests here.

if your running stock carbs on a cub ....why?with a cub setup like you have you should be running 35's at the least.

try 38 pilots and clip in middle with 138 mains.i 'm at about the same altitude as you and this is the jetting i ran.at times when the temp changed i would sometimes drop to a 35 pilot.

i'd say you'll be safe with +4 advance and the v3's and 20cc domes.however trueing and welding crank is insurance.in my experiences i ran a shee for 2 seasons at new paris drags with a stock crank that was not welded and trued,+4 advance and 18cc domes,and 34pj's and out of frame drag pipes on pump gas and had no motor problems at all.not sure of elevation there but its around the same altitude as you are.maybe i was just lucky.just be sure to make sure its jetted correctly.

the knob on the tors cap.i would'nt turn the airscrew unless your rejetting other wise you might lean it out and burn up your pistons.

boring should'nt cause it.however if it is needing bored it might.another thing that you might wanna try is fine wire spark plugs.they helped and run the best and longest in mine.

i used paint stripper on mine to remove the paint,them polished it.

raise the octane rating in your fuel and see if that helps.i run a big reed conversion,bored 40 over with a stock stroke and it will not run on both cylinders with less than 108 octane.if i try to run pump gas it will always drop the right cylinder.ed toomey done the motor and conversion back in 1997 and he could never find the reason it wont run on pump gas.i even tried goin to a pvl and then a fastline and it will still drop the right cylinder on pump gas.done it with 34 pj's ,35pwks and 38 mikuni's.

they don't make 34 pwk's ,they make 33 pwk's and then it goes to 35 pwk's.excellent choice of motor there .jim's 12 port strokers run fantastic.

them triples are awsome.

i disagree with that i ran a stock shee at test and tune a few years back and they ran the lights ,i ran 80 mph.and that was in 600 ft at 2500 ft elevation.

i got mine lowered .i run 300ex shocks in front and stock shock in rear with lowering kit set in middle.i tried a strut in rear and lost to much traction and control.i also have the rear shock set on the softer side so it drops rear end a little easier.all surfaces are different so you have to find what works best for you.as for the weight of the shocks i tried struts on the front and back then on the rear only and ran better et's with the shocks on front and rear.my shee weighs in at 300 pounds with full tank and wheelie bar attached.