blueshee03

hey billetlsr i'd think twice about dealing with him.heres a link from planet sand:ps link

the track actually sucked this weekend. i bet if the track would of been better you would of hit the 7.0 .i know everyone i talked to and from the slips i saw everyones e.t's were a little higher than normal.i'm not sure if i'll get down to w.v. this weekend but if i do i'll be lookin for ya.i think i'm getting my little beast tuned in a little. i sucked out of the hole but was actually slamming the wheelie bar when i shifted into 5th at the finish line.i actually pulled front wheels over the light at finish line.lol

still running same one i had at last race.i'll probally be running it a couple more races.i just gotta get it tuned just right and find out what its limit is ,if it has a limit.if i can get this little 350 to come on the first 250 ft like it does the second 250 ft i think it'll kick ass on a lot of the other bikes.last race was first time out and it was no where near being tuned in.i think we may see abig difference in it this race. as for my other motor its getting closer to being ready ,i'm not rushing it and don't want jim rushing it .besides i aint got to have fun with this motor yet.

hell yeh ,i think you can get 7.1 .you were getting close there last race.at thunder valley i would almost bet you run 7.1.however be prepared cause you will hit the grab bar faster at thunder valley.i'll be lookin for ya .you do know that its a 2 day race at thunder valley next time .i plan on being there both days.i got the old tent ready. i think my son's gonna be there too.i got some tuning to do before saturday for bbdr and deffinately gonna get it tuned for west virginia next weekend.

you just might ,although with no wheelie bar you might wanna be a bit more cautious off the line. i'd start with around 4 psi pressure in them and regulate it from there.

as far as performance gains ,they do very little.they are good for getting carbs to clear clutch arm ,nitrous nozzle mounting .they do serve better than a boost does.

my oppinion at your altitude i'd start with 55 pilots and 158 mains with clip on needle in middle position airscrew 1 1/2 turns out.just be sure to do a plug check before you ride it much.we're at 3000 ft and i think this should put you close.as you go up in altitude you normally need to go down a bit on your jetting.

they are required anywhere i've drag raced.in my oppinion the tether switch is a great idea on any atv or trail bike and should be mandatory .if they are in working order and the tether is attached to rider like its supposed to be and the rider is thrown off the motor will be shut down and prevent the machine from running off out of controll by its self and causing extra damage to its self or even worse an innocent bystander.

we'll be there unless it rains out.i usually get to every race at bbdr through out the season. i called thunder valley in west virginia saturday and they were cancelled the next race there is memorial day weekend and its a two day race.i wanna try to get down to that event. yeh normally its a bitch to get hooked up at bbdr.its a mostly clay track and gets hard to get traction.its usually a hard packed surface and what makes it real tough is they also run motorcycles thereand the big wheel bikes and top fuel bikes rip hellish ruts in the starting line and with a quad its tough to find a place to get a good launch.expecially when you run a wheelie bar.we never tried the knarly's.i found the ohtsu m/r 501 radials work the best for me,they're the factory honda tires.they have a more rounded shape and since they are real flexible they set down in the ruts instead of setting across the top of them.

.its not right to come on here just to advertise your business.i myself would not buy your swingarms ,i will stick with grand river racing.with them i know i will get total satisfaction in product quality and craftsmanship and customer service.

bkabina runs pro wedges on his when we go to the one drag we run once in awhile.they hook harder than any we tried and deffinately can run lower gearing with a higher e.t. and mph.i've seen them run in 500ft dirt with 16-38 gearing and ran a 5.7 crossing finish line in third.i know i was running it.

don't know how many of you guys have tried pro wedge 2's but they bite hard and swell up in height like crazy as soon as they start spinning.the faster they turn the higher they get.the pro wedges may be contributing to you bog.with them you can gear a little lower gearing than normal.

happy birthday john,your a wonderful person.the world needs more like ya.

yeh ,hopefully next time we'll have pics.i don't know what vids if any that the son got.if he has any maybe he will post something.

that stud or adjusting eccentric is adjustable.it gets wore after awhile and must be replaced.when properly adjusted ,the "c" shaped part on the end of the shift shaft that hooks the pins on the shift star will be set so the pin on the shift star is centered evenly between the two points of the "c" .also check the shift shaft to see if its bent or worn.sometimes the little spring that holds the "c"in the proper position goes bad and won't keep it aligned properly.also the rivet that holds the "c" shaped end to the shift shaft gets worn and allows the end to flop around to much.if it were me i'd just get a new shift shaft and adjusting eccentric and put in it.sounds like you have an adjustment problem to me whether its just not adjusted right or there are a couple worn parts.

well we finally got to try the passion 4 mill cub at the dirt drags and it flat out rips.jim did a wonderful job on it but then he always does.it ran right with a 535 cheetah in a lonestar chassis and it still is'nt fully tuned and "b"spun half track.also 00tbanshee was there and i must say his shee along with his riding skills was pretty impressive.for a stock machine it hauls ass.he was kicking ass all evening in his class .its also a great looking machine.00tbanshee i'm sure we'll hook up again at the drags.i did'nt kick ass but i had fun

in my oppinion i figure at 800.00 ,i can paint mine 4 times a year for 10 yrs and it will always look good. here again i can paint it 15 times and have it lookin good. if done right spray bombs will do the trick ,make it look good and save some money for performance parts.

i just painted some plastics for mine awhile back and i'm getting ready to do another set.when i done mine i wetsanded them with 1500 grit to get all the dirt off .then i let them dry real good .i sprayed them with bulldog adhesion promoter ,then painted them.i used dupli color base coat and then dupli color metal cast paint.they turned out pretty good i think.i also painted a set last year with krylon fusion but they don't offer to appealing colors unless you want black,yellow or white.they also sell plastic primer if you want to primer them before you paint them.

now thats a thought worth pondering.

probally a little pricey but you can try lonestar.they did sell them i think.

jim is a super guy to talk and deal with .he takes a lot pride in his work.every motor he has done for us has run super.

i wanted to get out to tri county but i did'nt make it.did they run the drags?

thats the technique i use

d arms are hard to find .

just practice different techniques and find what works best for you and your set up.what works for one guy may not work with the next.