MILO

i already have the PD billet impeller, and just looked up the pancake bearing for the clutch also. i'll have to look into the rest of it though. the shift star, shaft, and drum just help to make shifting smoother right? i need to do some research on the 'squish' testing also. i've never done that before but i've heard of it. thanks bud.

my '01 shee is due for a rebuild again and i'm sure i'm forgetting something and i'm also sure that you guys can fill in the gaps for me. i'm trying to figure up an estimate for the job. before i list my plans here are my current mods that would apply to the rebuild. - pc pipes - pro-design pro flow intake (foam) - v3's - noss head / 20cc domes - hinson basket/stock hub & p-plate/ tusk kit - elevation 1200' PLANS: - herr jugs aggressive trail port - full rebuild from Herr jugs - bore, hone, piston & rings, everything needed included - welded crank - crank bearings/seals - noss 19cc domes + o-ring set - pro design adj. time plate - probably +4 - of course - clutch cover gasket, oil, new plugs, etc. so am i missing anything. what do i need after splitting the cases? should i just replace the connecting rods while i'm at it? anything else i should do while i'm in there?? :shrug:

wow, i wish my pc's looked like that. then again, my shee is a trail shee and sees lots of dirt and mud. i'd spend more time polishing than riding looks really good though bud.

thanks bud. i'll get in touch with you when i'm ready to get the work done. the top end is already stripped and i'll get the crank out as time permits. it may be a few weeks but i'll definitely be getting back to you. :beer:

my nephew must have forgotten to tighten one of the rear carrier bolts after adjusting his chain. it slid out and jammed in his sprocket and locked up the rr end almost sending him over the bars. good catch bud. that could be a disasterous situation.

i was leaning toward herr jugs racing already, but thanks for the suggestion. it's good to know that others approve of and support their work. i'll probably ship my crank along also to get trued & welded. i'll just have them go the whole 9 yards on it rather than mix and match with different places.

thanks bud, i'll check them out for the plate. i was leaning towards the PD plate cuz i've heard nothing but bad news about RS lately.

unless you are hitting a bunch of big jumps, and are just out for a normal trail ride or something, i'd say it would be ok. the chain will eventually stretch a little anyway. maybe just a little premature compared to normal. 1.5" of slack, damn, that seems too loose to me. i think you'll be fine with 1/2" bud.

i have PC pipes on my shee and ride mostly trails & woods. i haven't run anything else on my shee so i don't have a real comparison, but i can tell you this. they mount up well, look great, sound awesome, pull hard bottom to top end. oh yeah, did i mention that they sound awesome? i hate the kazoo or rattling pop can sounds of most other pipes. all in all, PC's are a great all around pipe. you can't go wrong with them for a trail quad, considering the price also. PC's, better air filter set up, ditch the air box lid, and of course rejet, and shee will really come alive. :cool:

i've hardly had my shee out this summer or been to the site much. i've spent more time on the street this year. i recently traded my cbr600 on an '08 yamaha r1. pretty much all of my free time has been on it instead and the shee hasn't seen much more than the yard until this past Sunday. i went for a rip with some friends and took the shee, and what do you know, the rt piston ended up being toasted. the ring gap is now at the front of the piston, piston chunked up and cracked down the skirt, and caused enough debris on top to chew up my noss head dome. it doesn't appear to have let anything down into the crank though, but i'm not 100% sure. luckily it's almost like the last time when my left piston let loose and i rebuilt in april '06. anyway, here i am with an excuse to make some changes. here are my thoughts. required: - most likely bored due to a gouge in the cylinder wall. (just needed honed last time) - new wiseco piston kits - new noss domes due to damage from debris - of course new cylinder base and noss head gaskets now here's the extras i'm considering while i have it apart. - advanced timing with RS or Pro Design plate - changing from 20cc domes to 19cc domes - crank trued & welded - porting (probably woods port) since i mostly trail ride questions: - am i on the right track here? i already have PC pipes, noss head, v3's, hinson basket / tusk clutch. - how much am i looking to get into here ($$). i'm assuming around $300 or so for the required fix, and probably around $600 - $800 to go with the extras. does that sound about right? i'm probably going to tear into the bottom end myself if i go that route. i'm sure that with my clymer's, i'll get through it fine. other than gaskets and crank bearings, what am i missing, or what should i do or not do??

it sounds like your seat nubbins are gone. they tend to wear out and fall out. i replaced mine with a set from upp racing for like $20 or so. look up their site. upp racing

c-sections are interesting. the nurse kept asking me if i was ok, she thought i would pass out or something i guess. i thought it was kind of cool to watch. yeah, i was worried here and there and believe me i said a ton of prayers in there, but seeing your child coming out is just as exciting as normal child birth. it's such a routine thing anymore, especially if it's planned and not an emergency. just remember, your wife will be pretty sore for a few days and need some extra help with things. good luck with everything bud, and congrats!!

there are several manufacturers of those little gas vent tubes. i have a tusk one from RMATV. looks much better and is a lot less hassle than the long stocker hose. if yours was hooked to something before, somebody had it all wrong.

there are so many things wrong with this thread. i don't understand how people think that you can't have a good time without drinking. if you want to drink, whatever bud, if you want to ride, great, but don't mix the two. it's a recipe for disaster for yourself or others so don't be surprised if people are offended by it. you can't put around on a shee? i've ridden with groups of nothing but ute's who poke around. granted i rip a little here and there just because i get bored but you can trail ride a banshee at lower speeds if shee's tuned right. now i'm not saying out of the power band for a long time, but i bet i rarely got into 3rd gear. i wouldn't suggest a shee for your ride if that's your style but it can be done. yeah, it's a go fast bike, but it will survive a joy ride occasionally. don't buy a 700lb quad because it's dangerous? it's like anything else, it's only as dangerous as the rider makes it. i have a 700 grizz which i love to ride as much as my shee. yeah, it's a tank compared to the shee, but then again i'm not out doing wheelies, donuts, jumping, hill climbing, ripping and tearing either. i'm out for a joy ride and to find some mud to play in, plow snow, or take the wife or kids for a ride. so many of you guys are so narrow minded. you think that the banshee is a drag or dune bike only, because that's all you do with it. you think that everyone drinks, anytime, anyplace, because that's what you do. you act like riding balls to the wall on the banshee is the one and only great ride out there and anything else is retarded. grow up fella's. hey bud, if you want to trade your bike for a shee go for it. but your reasons for doing it seem pretty lame and irresponsible. if i saw you poking around on a shee with a beer in one hand, i'd want to run you off the trail myself because you deserve it. if you want a quad to haul your woman on, that's great. the shee is not the best option for that, but it can be done. there are times that i wish i had a bike again, and times that i wouldn't trade my shee for anything. but that's just it, you do what's best for you, not what some of the wag-jags on here tell you to.

those wheels are definitely the ticket to moving your trailer by hand. my dad put one on his trailer and i even pushed it through the yard in the grass pretty easily. i think he got his thru northern tool co.

wow, that sucks bud! you never know what's in store for you. anything can happen at any time. that's why it's so important to have things in order with the man upstairs. it sounds like he has a good friend in you and lots of support from the HQ. be sure to let him know he's in our thoughts and prayers.

hey bud, this should be the right part # : GUARD, HEADLIGHT (U49) 4KB-84169-00-00 / $8.25 ea. any yammy dealer should be able to hook you up with some. i had cut mine off b4 also because they would get cracked and have pieces missing from them and look really bad. whether it was from being roosted or just being cheap i don't know. but i cut them off and it looked like yours for a while, then i put the cascade bloodshot eyes covers on it. i always like them better anyway, and they remind of "speed buggy" if you know who that is :yelrotflmao: i just thought they gave the bike a little more character, especially depending on how you turn the eyes for different looks. the smaller lights from trail tech look pretty sweet on most shee's also. you can find either one at RMATV.

that is an amp link isn't it? aren't they supposed to help control chain slap and over tensioning when under pressure, like jumping etc? i've heard they are more of a PIA and waste of money than anything. bud you can absolutely ditch that thing and use the stock adjustment system if you wanted to.

my banshee needs some front end work. i have stock arms and works triple rate shocks (no res). i'm replacing the upper and lower a-arm bushings, both sides, upper and lower shock bushings, and at least 1 tie rod end is shot so i'm replacing all of them. also the steering stem bushings are worn, so i want to do all of this at the same time. there is enough play in everything right now that it's hard to check the ball joints for wear. i hate to put all of the $$ into the stock set up to find out that the ball joints are shot too, and i know they are not replacable and you have to replace the a-arms. so how can i check the ball joints other than getting everything else back in shape first and then being able to see wear in them also? i don't really want to spend the big bucks on new arms at this point if i don't have to. i was hoping to put some new wheels and tires on my grizz instead.

i recently bought a camo cargo bag for my grizz from cabela's - brand name "maddog". then i see the exact same thing in RMATV from "moose racing" i was looking in RMATV at the Hydrodynamics suspension system. then in dennis kirk and they had the exact same parts, #'s, descriptions and all word for word, but listed as "moose racing" suspension system. the only difference was the stickers on the a-arms. tusk seems to do the same thing. my "tusk" snow plow is made by american eagle manufacturing. some of their other products seem to be identical to other brands also, but tusk parts are usually cheaper. who actually makes these things and who all gets to put their names on them? damn, you never know what you are buying or who from anymore.

if i remember correctly when i installed my upp slider, it can be done without removing the swinger. BUT, what you have to do is remove the collar that your stock roller rides on. look on the banshee microfiche (rear arm) it's #42. you need to get the stock roller out of the way, chisel thru the collar and spread it to remove it, being carefull not to cut into your swinger or the dust collar of the swinger. if you don't remove the collar the slider will not fit around the swinger. after removing the collar, the upp slider will spread and slip (not exactly easy) over the swinger and a bolt goes in from the bottom to hold it in place. if i knew then what i know now, i would have just dropped the swinger a little, pulled the collar off and slid the upp slider on. that would be much easier.

hey bud, where are you in pa? i'm about 20 miles s of altoona. i would definitely invest in a set of skid plates. you should get the full chassis skid (covers from ft bumper to rr of frame) and the swinger skid plate. the first thing i put on my shee was a set of DG skids. you need to protect that motor and sprocket, brakes, etc in the rear before springing for other go fast mods. my DG swinger skid is currently cracked on the corner welds but it is now 7 yrs old and has taken a beating over the years. check out rocky mountain atv for skid plates, they have some of the best deals you're going to find. pick what you like, and check out the product review section here to get some feedback for them. RMATV

i would guess that it's the e-brake also. if you can't get it straightened out, unhook the e-brake. follow the wire from the perch to the junction under the rad cover and unplug it. you can also buy a block off plate so you can remove the clumpy assembly from the rear caliper, they are usually less than $10. by the way, welcome to the site. if you need anything for your shee, this is the place to go to. :thumbsup:

since it wouldn't shut off i'd say it sounds like an electrical problem related to the tors. they seem to be more of a problem than what they are worth. i would suggest doing a search on here about unplugging the tors to see if that's the problem for sure before ripping them off. but i'd bet that's where the problem is.

i agree, but i also agree that this is something that is such a fine line thing to be messing with that you better have your ducks in a row before starting into it or it will inevitably end in disaster. i'm not saying that you don't, but it's your money and your ride, so have at it if you like. good luck bud, i hope it works out for you. :thumbsup: