MILO

i know that if i ever buy another sport quad, it's going to be a 700 rappy. the 450's feel like a blaster sized quad, just too small. but hey, i'm 6', 220 lbs. too. the rappy is much more comfortable.

my set up is similar to yours and i mostly trail ride. pro circuit pipes, bandit rears here too, which i really like for trails, muddy or dry. i have holeshots on the front which seem to grab good also. but i do have works triple rate shocks on the front which really helps. also i run the pro design plate and air filter and took off the airbox lid, that really wakes her up too (jetting accordingly also) if you ride the shee in the woods enough you will learn to handle it better also. don't be afraid to slip the clutch a little here and there to get you back into the powerband rather than wait for it to come on. it can be a pretty awesome trail ride after you learn how to make it work for you in the woods. also, if you ride in wet / muddy trails the ebc severe duty brake pads work great. i've never noticed any less braking ability in any conditions with these pads, even after creek crossings, mud holes, etc.

most of the poker runs i go on are 20-25 miles, some about 28 or so. i usally make it thru fine without tapping the reserve, and that's with the occasional play areas with some hill climbs, jumps etc. most rides are like yours, in and out of trails, slow trails, fast trails... a pretty good mix of things.

i'm about 20 minutes south of altoona here. still a few hours from most of you guys. if you don't know about it already you need to check out this link. quadfest 2008

i had ridden bikes for as long as i can remember but got out of off road riding for a few years and stuck to the street, then wanted back into it. a buddy at work had a blaster and i always wanted a quad so i bought a new '00 blaster to go riding with him. at the time it was my first quad and the price was reasonable compared to larger quads (half as much as a shee and others) and i figured it would be good riding with my buddy on his blaster, same pace and all. i rode it for about a year and got fed up with it not hauling my ass up the hills i wanted to climb, and it was just basically too slow and too small for me. i always heard that banshees were the shit and seen a few at different rides and places and was pretty impressed. i went back to the dealer where i got my blaster and traded it on a new '01 shee. i fell in love with it on the first ride. the whole package just kicked ass over the blaster. and after finding the hq, it wasn't long till some mods were done and so on. i have to say though, that the blaster was an excellent first quad, as far as learning to ride and handle a quad.

that would be my first suggestion also, but he said that it has set for a couple of months. it's probably all corroded and needs a good cleaning. that's where i would start bud.

belray gear saver - 80 wt. it may cost a little more, but it's good stuff. just about any reputable shop has it on hand.

some crazy stories here people, and i hope that i never have to handle a situation like some of them. i am a first responder at my work and have handled lacerations, burns, falls, broken bones, diabetics, etc, but nothing immediately life threatening, except for avoiding somebody going into shock. we have an AED but i hope that i never have to use it, especially on one of my employees or co-workers. it takes some balls to step up and help somebody out like you guys have. but somebody needs to react and help, and that somebody was you. you are somebody's hero now. whether you saved the life or not, at least you tried and i have the utmost respect for that. :beer:

the only grips i have tried were oury, scott and spyder, and i like the spyder grips much better than the rest (RMATV). those odi grips look pretty cool though, i may have to look into them.

hey bud, sorry to hear about your shoulder. it sounds like you'll be out of commission for a while. the motor work sounds good though. look at it this way, after not being able to ride for so long, you'll appreciate all the time and $$ you invested in it even more. :thumbsup:

your right bud, any chain of any brand can have the same or better tensile strength than a brand name chain. i'm just saying i'd at least want to know what i'm buying, not something from e-bay that i don't even know who the manufacturer is. DID chains have done well for me and never let me down yet. maybe i'm paying some extra for the name, but it's a name that i know i can trust.

no problem bud. :beer:

other than the gasket and billet impeller, the parts you need are going to be from a yammy shop only. you won't find anything aftermarket. this is from an online microfiche parts diagram and part list BEARING (U49) 93306-30003-00 (replaces 93306-30002-00) 1 $11.85 OIL SEAL,SW-TYPE (U49) 93103-10168-00 (replaces 93103-10147-00) 1 $19.68 GASKET, HOUSING COVE (U49) 3GG-12428-01-00 (replaces 3GG-12428-00-00) 1 $3.20

definitely don't buy anything that doesn't give a brand name. anyway, you'll go thru 2 non o-ring chains in the time that you would 1 o-ring or x-ring chain. so why not just go for the better of the two? what you need to look at also is the tensile strength. personally i only run the DID x-ring ATV chain. yeah, it's more expensive, but you almost always get what you pay for.

hey bud, b4 making adjustments anywhere for your clutch you need to make sure that your arrows are lining up on the clutch arm. loosen the cable at the perch, push the clutch arm (opp. end of cable at the motor) in toward the ctr of the bike by hand until it stops. the arrow on the arm should line up with the arrow on the case. if not then adjust the screw in the ctr of the clutch to make them line up. that's all you do with that adjustment. tighten it up to hold it in place. then adjust at the perch as needed. if it still doesn't work you may be in for a new cable, that is if all else is fine with your clutch. you need to invest in a clymer's bud. it's the best $30 you'll spend on your shee. :thumbsup:

for bearing installations i usually use a socket with the same outside diameter as the outer bearing race so the force of hammering it in is distributed equally and there's no stress on the bearings or inner race. something of that nature should do the trick.

hey bud, i wouldn't run it any more until you fix the problem. if you have antifreeze in your oil it's eventually going to work on your clutch fibers and they will be trashed and you'll be in for a new clutch kit also. it's most likely your impeller seal, probably caused by impeller failure. pull the covers for the impeller, where the rad hose hooks into the motor on the right side. if you had a stock impeller they break apart, you loose coolant circulation, and it usually destroys the seal to the bottom end and lets coolant into the oil. if that's the problem you need to pull the side cover off to fix it. and while you have it apart replace the impeller with a billet one, the stockers have a short lifespan.

if i remember correctly i tried to pry it out from the top but you have to be carefull that you don't damage the crank case. you need to use something like rag, tool handle or something to pry against rather than the engine case. i also tried using a small hook. run it thru the ctr and hook the bearing and hammer up on the handle. that didn't work either. if i remember right, i ended up using a punch / chisel and knocking the bearing out in pieces. it worked but then you need to watch that you don't score the sidewalls where the bearing sits, and be very carefull and meticulous in cleaning up any debris that may be dropped into the opening. i used a magnet from the top of the opening and thru the rod / ball opening from the clutch side. by the way, it's 10x easier if you have the motor out of the frame. i think in the worse case scenario, you can split the cases and get at it that way.

i'm off work for the entire event this year. i'm only about 45 minutes away, so i'm definitely gonna be there as much as possible this year. hopefully i'll get some riding in this time. :beer:

when i did mine, i drilled a few small pilot holes thru the plates and ran little screws in them to keep it from spinning. hit it with the impact and it popped right off.

i've been using belray 80 wt gear saver in my shee and nephew's blaster for years. i pretty much change them both every spring, mid summer, and end of summer. depending on how much we ride it may be more. i might get to ride once a week if i'm lucky though. but i always thought that after every ride was way overkill.

you need to hit up the arcade here on the hq and play some games. i played pac man for about 2 hrs yesterday. for some reason i was much better when i was 12 :biggrin:

i just used a stanley t-50 stapler... $15 at wally world. you may have to tap some in all the way with a small hammer to seat securely, but it worked fine.

exactly. there was very little left to my impeller when it came apart, just a little bit of plastic left on the shaft and it was overheating, of course. if you need a new impeller, do not put in a replacement stocker. get a pro design or modquad billet aluminum one. i'm sure RMATV or FAST could hook you up with one pretty quick.

the tors can just be unhooked and left on correct? i would try that b4 going out and buying the kit to get rid of them. and you should be able to get the carbs sync'd close enough with them on to make it run decent anyway. at least much better than what he's getting now. but if you can't figure it out with simple things first like clean carbs, spark, etc., don't rule out the possibility of internal damage just because it's not that old. and i'm not saying tear the top end down and inspect it just yet, just take a look thru the ports. they really aren't that difficult to get to.