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Figured I’d bring up some of the stuff that has been hitting my desk lately. A chassis designed to use equal length arms to eliminate bump steer will in fact make it easy to eliminate bump steer, but you’re giving up everything that helps you maintain corner grip. On paper, I’m coming up with around a 20% loss in grip on average for the frames I have a model for. Some of them peak around a 40% loss in grip. Bump steer is fine in some circumstances. I like no bump steer for the lower 80% of the travel and then a touch of bump in. This helps keep it straight on hard hits. Everybody talks about straight line bump steer but nobody talks about when the bars are turned, which is a VASTLY more important matter. I’m getting close to trade secrets here but suffice it to say that eliminating bump steer while turning can cost you seconds. Not tenths. Seconds. Give the tire what it wants, not what Instagram hashtags tell you that it should want. A year or two ago, I would have told you everything I know on the matter but after having another chassis builder tell me that I needed to come read this guide (ya know, the one I wrote) and learn a few things, I’m now aware that I’m helping an asshole. I have zero tolerance for rude people so if you want to know more about this, PM me or find me on facebook. People like 250R rake (which is technically called wheel recession angle or WRA) but that comes at a cost. Higher WRA of around 15 degrees or so can cause a lot of dive under braking. Add in the extra weight of something that isn’t a 250R and the issue gets worse. If you can work with it then the extra comfort and compliance can be worth the trade off, but you have to work with it (weight on your feet under braking, not into your hands). There are about 6-7 things to look at with WRA but the gist is that heavier riders need less, heavier braking needs less, and a shorter wheelbase needs less. For the 800th time, no wheel spacers ever. The shock matters more than the arm. With the shock, the spring has one job: to hold the load introduced to it. The valving controls how fast the spring gets back to its steady state when the load changes. If it’s rough as fuck, 95% of your issues are either because your tire pressure is off, your ride height is off, or your valving is off. It is VERY rarely the spring(s). If someone quotes hooke’s law (a sign they don’t know shit) then ask how that changes with velocity. Even if you don’t know the answer, it’ll let them know they’re at the end of their rope. I’ll be back in about a month to bitch about something else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I showed my neighbor the pictures of this Banshee on my iPad because he is a retired old school Yamaha mechanic with 30 years of experience. He said that all the plastics that are on this Banshee are the original factory plastics. He also said the plastics that were made in 87 - 92 were made way better than the plastics from 1993 and up that were cheaply made. He also said that 1987- 1992 had warning stickers and the 1993 and up came with riveted on warning labels. He wanted me to say that this thing is the perfect candidate for a full restoration and said don’t cut any corners buy doing a cheap restoration job and that this machine deserves the best quality parts available.

I ran a RIGID 6" lightbar on just a converter/rectifier for 6 years. It's a great inexpensive way to go, but yeah you can youtube DC conversion or just search here. It's been covered 100 times. One thread is like 20 pages of all of bitching at each other.

If you removed the shift forks from the shafts you may have mixed them up putting it back together. This will prevent you from being able to seat the transmission shafts in the cases.

The Evol chamber should be 2-4x the main chamber. I’ve never seen a main chamber need more than 60psi ever. Set the main chamber to get to ride height. Not for stiffness, not for comfort, not because Carl on Facebook said so, not because anyone else said so. The only job of the air in the main chamber is to get to ride height, same with springs. Before you do that, put it on concrete (or a tile floor, wood, etc.) and put cardboard under the tires. Set the tire pressure exactly how you plan on riding it and get on it. Bounce up and down while turning the bars and then settle slowly into your riding position. Have someone else measure the height under the lower frame rails. Rear is under the pegs, the front is on the flat part of the frame just before it angles up to the lower arm mounts. Your starting target should be around 7” in the rear and 7.5” in front. The difference in rear vs. front height is rake, so .5” rake in this case. More rake allows for better compliance on rough terrain at speed. Less rake keeps it flatter under braking. If it wants to roll excessively or take any static load well, add Evol pressure. If that doesn’t solve it, add ride height. If it wants to tip, lower the front ride height. If that doesn’t solve it, lower Evol pressure. Every ride height change you make affects alignment so you’ll want to double check that. Set the adjustments in the middle. If it’s rough on single impacts at speed, lower high speed compression. If it’s fine, turn it up until it isn’t, then back off a notch. As you change the high speed compression, you should also change the rebound to a degree. If I do 3 clicks on HS, I usually do 2 on rebound. For braking, hard cornering, and general riding, low speed is what you’ll want to focus on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t been very active online for quite a while since changing around almost everything in my life. I keep getting people asking the same questions and I’ve changed my views on a few things over time. I’ll add more here and there but it’ll be short and sweet for now. Long travel is not needed for a banshee rear. It isn’t needed for most quads. Long travel isn’t necessary but if you’re buying shocks and arms anyway, it’s a no brainer. 99% of all people who tell you what suspension or chassis setup is good just legitimately don’t have a clue. This goes all the way up to most builders who actually build arms. I also spoke with a pro rider the other day that asked if a vented hood was going to give him better lap times, so yes, your heroes are full-on space cadets as well. A few know things, but not many these days. “5 years no issues” means almost nothing to fabricated parts. It may have sat for all of it and your “huge air” is probably a 36” tabletop. You may have gotten a set that is only being held together by luck and not know it because you just can’t ride. There are 2 companies in the US who currently manufacture arms with any sense of modern engineering in mind: Lonestar and LS4. Lonestar has the budget. LS4 is where I used to work. The rest use the ideas from past generations of builders or hear say. All competition arms are made from 0.083” -0.120” wall chromoly or DOM for the lowers, 0.065-0.120 wall chromoly or DOM for the uppers. I know because I’ve repaired all of them. There is almost always no testing beyond the first model that a product is made for, with the rest just changing to fit and using the previously proven principles. “I got shocks setup for my weight and riding style” is the equivalent of saying, “I got shoes for my feet and walking style.” It’s a given. Stop saying it. Alba is still Chinese garbage with dogshit welds. When they admit it, I’ll get off their case. They’re the beats by Dre of 4 wheelers. My current stance on the best arms available are Lonestar DC-Pro. I won’t air anyone out because some of them are my friends, but I’ve repaired shit that I shouldn’t have to repair. “Stackin dimes” isn’t going to make it an x-ray grade weld. If I had a dollar for every pretty weld I’ve had to cut out and repair… Anyway, the answer is Lonestar DC-Pro. If you ask, “but what about _____” then my answer is still the same. Save for some off the wall shop that’s making one or two arms here and there, I’ve been in all of them and I’ve already considered the question. If I/we release a set of banshee arms, I’ll come here to let you guys know. Lightweight stuff and hillshooter builds are not my area. I won’t speak on anything that isn’t MX/XC/Desert oriented until I’ve gotten more into it. -DDQ 4 Prez Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Although I don't see how they can compare their straight weight to a multi weight. especially when you know "W" means "winter"

I went and purchased the oem Yamaha fuel shut off valve. The guy at the parts counter at the dealership said the same exact thing about the dual pingle fuel valve. I got it installed and now everything is back together and working perfectly again . Thanks, Jake

I would say buy the oem Yamaha fuel shut off valve unless you’re planning to do some major engine / carburetor upgrades later down the road then I would recommend purchasing the dual pingle shut off valve. The rebuild kits are pretty much a universal rebuild kit. When my fuel shut off valve went bad I just replaced it with the oem Yamaha one. It’s all up to you on what you want to purchase. Good luck!!

Thank You JerzOutlaw350 for the recommendation on the Kenda Klaw XC tires. I didn’t expect to go riding today with my buddies because of all the rain we got yesterday but they called me early this morning and wanted to know if I wanted to go riding and I didn’t hesitate and went riding and boy I’m very happy with the way tires performed. Thanks, Jake

Currently on my Banshee I’m running the 21x7-10 and 20x11-9 6 ply Kenda Klaw XC. I like them a lot because they have excellent traction in all types of terrain that I ride in and the added bonus is with the rear tires because you can run them in 2 different directions. One direction is for soft terrain then the other direction is for a medium to hard terrain. As for my wheels I’m using my oem black wheels that I had powder coated semi gloss black.

Jfc . PULL THE PLUGS, AND SHOVE SOMETHING IN THERE TO MEASURE THE TOTAL UP AND DOWN MOVEMENT OF PISTON. does someone need to write it in crayon to comprendé?

To be honest anything that VP Racing make is a great product but there’s many different brands of 2 stroke pre mix oil on the market that are also very good as well. There must be a specific reason why the previous owner used VP’s brand over the other brands. So If you need to buy the VP’s Racing brand of 2 stroke oil online then that’s really not a big deal. A lot of people on the site here have there preference on what they run and like very much and most will tell you to try either Klotz R-50 or Klotz Super Techniplate, Klotz Benol, Maxima Castor 927 or Blendzall Green Label and the list is endless. I myself personally prefer Motul 800 2t off road. I been using it since my Banshee was brand new in 2004. I mix it at 50:1 because if I do it at 32:1 then I get the black drool coming out the end of my silencers. If Motul was to discontinue the brand I use I would switch to either Klotz R-50 or Klotz Super Techniplate or even Blendzall’s green label. The group that I ride with they all use Klotz as their choice of 2 stroke oil. So just stop pussy footing around a get out and ride the hell out of the damn thing and enjoy it !!!!!! Good Luck and Ride Safe !!!

Just use the oil and buy some easy available one after. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Welcome to BansheeHQ! There is plenty of members here that can help answer any of your questions or help with any problems that arise. From reading your post it sounds like you might of found yourself a great deal. I have a couple of questions to help you get some of the answers you are looking for. I hope that you got to start it up and got to ride it before you bought it. The next thing you need to consider is how long was this Banshee stored without it being started? I’m just curious because if it sat too long the gaskets and seals will dry out and start to leak which will lead to a catastrophic failure. I would highly recommend that you consider doing a compression test and a leak down test asap. I would also highly recommend going completely over the Banshee before considering taking it out riding. My question is what brand of 2 stroke pre mix oil did the previous owner give you? How old is the content in the bottle and is the bottle still factory sealed? Good Luck!!

I have stock kickstarter and I also have size 13 feet and only kick it over while wearing work boots or riding boots. My Compression is 145 psi I also don’t have heal guards but I do have full rear fenders and my calf doesn’t come into contact with the rear fender while kicking it over.

Jetting the carbs depends on the mods that you have done to your Banshee and your location where you live and outside temperatures. What main jets & pilot jets are you running right now and what is your air screws set at? You very rarely have to mess around with the needle. Also what type of premix are you using and at what ratio?

Are you talking combustion area or water area( and not near oring surfaces). If combustion, as long as there arent pieces stuck in it, that could come loose, some will buff & reuse it. Is it worth it... not to me. Depending, it could create hot spots too. 1st ? Id ask is, is it from the current set up u have now? If so, you might have detonation issues that id address 1st!

You buy the regulator/rectifier that I posted. You connect it just how the instructions say in the link I posted. Red goes to power, black goes to chassis ground. The other two go to pos/neg on light. It's literally a 5-10 minute job. No battery for the rectifier/regulator.

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Waiting on leakdown test, as in parts to come? Id start there ( shoulda done that on bench but) Crossover tube back on? did u go through carbs? Carb slides are returning all the way? rebuilt as in took apart n re assembled after fixing trans, or new build?

Chariot sells billet baskets and pancake bearings…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

D.I.D is a really good brand of chain and they do come on some of your major brands of dirt bikes as a OEM chain. The downside of the brand is the price. There is other brands of chains that are just as good as D.I.D at a less expensive prices and they hold up hold up just as well. You can check out these companies Motosport.com or Rockymountainatvmc.com and see what they have to offer. Just make sure that you replace both front and rear sprockets when buying a new chain ( it would be senseless and a waste of money to put a new chain on old worn out sprockets ) and also check for worn out drive line parts like upper & lower chain rollers, chain slider and the rear chain guide. Also if you don’t have one yet make sure you look into purchasing a case saver because banshees are prone to chain wack.

If you’re trail riding then you’ll want around 7.5-8” front ride height (depending on terrain). That measurement is on the lower frame rails just before they kick up toward the lower arm mounts. You need get on it and have someone measure it for you. Make sure the tires are at the pressure you intend to run and you have fuel in it. The main thing you look for on ride height is whether it likes to tip or roll. As you go higher, it’ll want to transition from rolling to tipping in the corners. 1/4” can be a noticeable difference. As a side note, where your weight is being supported in a corner is a huge factor. If your ass is planted on the seat and your feet are still on the pegs, it makes nearly zero difference if you lean with your shoulders. Putting the weight on your inside foot and trying to squat down on that foot is probably the single most important thing you can do for corner speed. If you’re drag racing, I know the math and dynamics but not the practice. You’ll have to ask someone else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes,,, Since things are quiet here these days it doesn't matter that you're one of the original "old members". Your hiatus makes you fresh meat! lol - welcome

Got a set of these on my bench right now. Lane & Bill are making moves! Their cases are friggin’ nice. They are a way cleaner casting then OEM. Hard to believe, but they are.

<<< KNOWS ...his gays

2GU-21513-00-00 STAY, FENDER 1 and 2GU-21514-00-00 STAY, FENDER 2

There the tubular ones and the flat "L" shaped ones, left and right each.

You can wait to see how it goes or I can tell you. It’s a drastic difference if you’re going to be pushing it any at all. With 20” tires, it cuts feedback by around 85% depending on the tire pressure you run at. It’s fairly easy to calculate. Stock offset works best with around 24” tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use tapatalk

Bump pic's fer claude to look @, instead of lil'smeph III

I really like my motor city ignition setup. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Some body bug something!!!! I owe Claude for a LSR clamp I prolly won’t use…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Banshee is more fun, 250r is faster in the corners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brett, finish it. Too nice and too much time to forget about it.

Lez see some photos

I see DMS makes hand coned pipes now... From what I'm seeing on FB about this Ernest guy, I'd stay away.

Why not just buy the real ones....shearers

Yes, succion. Just plug them. Envoyé de mon SM-S908W en utilisant Tapatalk

Cheapest easiest mod to up it a little will be a milled head. But before you start throwing the parts cannon at it, do some SERIOUS research on jetting and tuning carbs. You would be amazed at the amount of medium built bikes that can just BARELY squeak a win against a properly tuned bike. the most power a 2stroke will make is actually in the detrimental area for hurting the engine……a 2stroke when lean…is mean. ever run a piece 2stroke power equipment out of fuel? The moment before it dies, it runs stronger than ever. I’m not saying run it so low that it will hurt your bike….. I’m just saying that if you’re running too rich you may be hurting yourself. And if your brothers bike is too lean, it may just be hurting his motor too. That’s why plug chops and learning to read the plug are important. also…those “recommended” jets are just a starting point…..don’t ever guarantee that they know what’s best….. hell they probably are not accounting for air temp/elevation, other mods, health of motor…..

Did you smoke the same shit as Robby Gordon?

You'll get lots of opinions and recommendations to that question and I don't think any one "best" can be singled out. There are a bunch of different brands that will take care of business just fine as long as it's non friction modified so it doesn't mess with the wet clutch. The manual calls for a 10w 30 motor oil. Personally I've always used Belray. This comment will probably stir things up but in my opinion (and that of my tranny guy Mark @ R&D Motorsports) I wouldn't use ATF fluid.

Lol I wouldn't go the DG route even if someone paid me to those pipes suck a**

SLP are clear winner on that setup. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

DG Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

From the videos you have posted, I believe that you are hearing your aluminum labyrinth seal "clicking" between your two inside crank bearings. The video that confirms this best for me, is where you are rotating the flywheel by hand. This is a common issue we see with factory crankshafts, where there is no o-ring located on the lab seal. Most aftermarket crankshafts have at least one, if not two o-rings installed to prevent the seal from moving side to side. You can confirm this to be your issue by simply unbolting your reeds from the cylinder and rotate the flywheel by hand just like you did before. The crankcase will no longer be sealed and thus, put little to no pressure on the lab seal back and forth. If the clicking is now gone from removing the reeds , the good news is - it really is not hurting anything and a repair is not required immediately. However, to repair the issue, an o-ring should be installed on the lab seal. If you remove the reeds and the clicking persists, I would recommend that you tear down and inspect for a damaged bearing on the crankshaft. Good luck! -Chris

Wooo hooo someone else using the same oil as me

This better. (unloaded run) You guys need to understand this was a very reputable dyno, from a very reputable company. It has an eddy current brake on it that loads the dyno down to a simulated real world load vs an inertia dyno which applies one laod the same way all the time. You also cant compare two dynos because no two ever read the same. You need to be looking at the differences between all the pipes ran on the same dyno, the same day, on the same bike. Thats were the answers are here. All 3 of these runs were with Pro Circuit pipes and 296 silencers.

Now remember this dyno is going to read lower as it has the eddy current brake on it. That being said we tested the pro circuits with 296 forest silencers and 304 factory sound silencers (the outcome may shock you). We also tested the CPI's and Trinity's. We wanted to test these all on the same dyno so there would be no confusion or trying to compare numbers from different dyno's. This dyno is known the be very conservative. Here is the chart with the 4 setups that are listed above. We also tried some different curves on the dyna ignition and got the jetting sqaured away. I understand the Pro Circuits may not pull to the moon, but I know for a fact that is not where I want my power. I'm not constantly running it at the redline. It's not a drag bike. (Light Blue) Run 19 Pro Circuits 296 (Forest Approved!!) (Red) Run 23 Pro Circuits 304 (Factory Sound) (Green) Run 26 CPI (Dark Blue) Run 28 Trinity Stage IV Just to clarify THE PRO CIRCUITS WITH 296 SILENCERS ARE THE LINES ON THE TOP OF THE GRAPH!!!!! HP and Torque for all four setups. Same curves without torque and the writing out of the way. Pro Circuits by them selves I will get a picture up of the timing curves and give you guys all of the jetting and setup specifics in a few minutes. While I'm doing that go order some Pro Circuits for your Serval