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Engine break-in opinions


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There are many theories on this. Some say break it in the way you're gonna ride it and others say give it a nice gentle break in period.

 

One of the best theories that I've heard of is to keep the engine in a nice steady pull. This provides ring pressure and cause the rings to "seat in" better. Hard to do with an atv of course but it supposedly works well in the aviation industry.

 

I, myself, have a hard time keeping my hand off the throttle anytime I'm riding something so I normally break em in kinda rough.

 

Consider this, Porsche breaks in all of their motors on a dyno!

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I wanted to make this a poll but I think there are too many ways to list!

Just a top-end rebuild, bored/honed, new pistons/rings.

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If you have a Clymers manual, and you should :lol: , look at the end of chapter 5.

There's a break in procedure there. It basically says to do a couple of heat cycles all the while avoiding full throttle. :shrugani:

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Ur motor break in is the most important thing to pay attention to it could make or break a motor i would suggest doin it the way the clymers says they have a way of tighting the head nuts and so forth as u slowly break it in

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Honda has a nonsynthetic 2 stroke oil (can only buy it in quarts though)

 

DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC TO BREAK IT IN

 

I always believe in pushing an engine. I do 2 heat cycles just varying the throttle a little bit off idle (10-15 min, make sure the cylinders get nice and warm) and then let cool, at the end of the 2nd cycle I retorque everything.

 

Then start giving the engine throttle. You'll feel where your engine doesnt want to go yet in the rpm band, it'll start to break up on you. Vary the throttle and back off if you hear the slightest feeling of it breaking up. Every time you bring the throttle up you should be able to push it a little farther.

 

After the 3rd heat cycle I start giving it load (start riding it around in first) and keep pushing the rpm band until its broken in.

 

I run 5 whole gallons of the non synthetic oil and then switch over to a semi synthetic.

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SO I am doin the top end on my bike right now as well.....and I cannot find anything NON SYNTHETIC at any shops here except KawaChem. I am not sure if Kawachem is good or not <_< . Everything else seems to have Synth base and all that jazz. Can you guys throw out some specific (brand and "model number") oils to search for or make the shop order. I don't wanna break it in with trashy oil obviously.

 

Thanks y'all

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SO I am doin the top end on my bike right now as well.....and I cannot find anything NON SYNTHETIC at any shops here except KawaChem.  I am not sure if Kawachem is good or not  <_< . Everything else seems to have Synth base and all that jazz.  Can you guys throw out some specific (brand and "model number")  oils to search for or make the shop order.  I don't wanna break it in with trashy oil obviously.

 

Thanks y'all

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honda GN2

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The artical states the way I've always broken motors in, weather it be a dirt bike, my street car or the 2200hp Keith Black drag motor.

Because the Banshee uses a cast ring the cross hatch is very fine so seating time is very short, for this reason it is important to get those combustion pressures very high right away to seat the rings all the way around the bore.

Beat it and then re torque it.

When I bought my Banshee from the dealership the first thing they did was fire it up and take it for a blast.

If you break it in slow it won't damage anything, it just won't be seated 100%, working at an engine machine shop I've broken in LOTS of engines this way. It's deffinatley my preferance.

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When I bought my Banshee from the dealership the first thing they did was fire it up and take it for a blast.

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u actually trust a stealership no way id let any of them get near riding my bike last time i went to one was just to mount sum tires and i stood there and watched ther dumbasses

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2 10 minute heat cycles and as 10 minute half throttle ride and then let it rip..

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That's how I learned it. two heat cycles, half throttle for 20 min or so, then romp on that bitch! The last top end I put in mine I did one heat cycle, then romped on it around the block, then let it cool down. That's it. I put 75 hours on that top end, and didn't have ANY troubles with it. I would put those pistons right back in if I were putting the gorr cylinders back on.

Edited by BigRed350x
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