FasterThanU90

It's a good deal. Message me

Pics

Pics

Pics

Pics

some brands of starting fluid have upper cylinder lubricants like GUMOUT. Yamaha sells a product called Fogging Oil and engines can run on that alone..

every seems to agree and disagree .. on brand new engines i have used a tiny bit of carb spray through the plug hole to get the carbs primed. A one second spray really aint shit. Thats a very small amount of atomized liquid. ..It is strong and yes it can strip off oil from what it contacts. i have never had a problem..before assembly i have coated everything with oil like the piston, piston pin, crank shaft ends and cylinder wall. Im confident everything is lubricated. Some have used it with causing no damage at all and some have had bad experience with it.. read the directions on the can. All my bikes r on alky. On a cold or Hell even cool day sometimes it will not start without it. I have never had a prob. I have herd stories of peps just blasting it in there and washing down the cylinder and cause some scaring. But that has never happened to me Skip Zero

If you do not want to have electrical issues which Banshee's are notorious for because of all of the safety equipment then I have the simplist wiring system available and anyone can make it from yours. First you have to not want any of the safety stuff or the light, Although adding the light isn't much more of a problem. This is all you need to make it run. First loose the tors system and all wires. Loose the voltage regulator because they fail all of the time and if you still want to run lights, you cvan get brighter ones. For the simplist wiring system eliminate all of these items in the second picture. Save the Stator and all the wires in the connector. Plug the Stator connector to the CDI conector and eliminate all of the other wires. You only need to plug in the black and orange wire to the coil and then run another ground wire to the coil mount(make sure to sand it) and another to one of the nuts on the head, because the motor is not always grounded, especiallt if it has been painted and the mounts were not sanded. You have to have a Tether switch so eliminate the kill switch and wire the tether to the coil. all of the wires coming out of the CDI are for the safety features mainly the R/B,B/W and B. again the only wires you need are the orange and black ground wire. Here is a picture of what it should look like. VERY simple compared to a stock one and it you still want to run the lights, just plug the light wire into the Stator connector and they will work, but they do rob power. from speed demon at atvdragracers.com http://www.atvdragracers.com/forum/two-stroke-technical/1225-banshee-wiring-diagram.html

what do your plug caps look like are they rusted out on the inside? Can you get an OHM reading on them?

yes it should run with it unplugged.. also you could unplug it from the coil at the black wire

Im happy with the Boyessen pro power reeds on my stock cyl bike.. i have v force 3 on my 4 mil cub both great choices but the Boyesen is cheaper just buying the petals not the whole cage.. its worth the value.

Thats what he said dude and i know how the switch works

Not all the time but sometimes yes a little bit is better than kicking it 50 times with no gas and oil getting to the top end.. a lot of mechanics use it to diagnose mechanical problems.

He is somehow getting no continuity to ground in the off position occasionally. Thats not wierd ?

do you have issues or something youre very rude.. fuck your hypothesis bro.. if you cant understand loosening plugs to spray starting fluid in the cylinder then you are dumb as fuck.. Ive rebuilt brand new engines that are dry and need a little boost to get the pressure differences going through the carbs and cylinders

sounds like hes getting some weird readings at the thumb switch

Really how am I dumb as fuck? You think that is going to hurt the engine?

thats backwards from what it should be at the main switch..

back probe the harness connector with a paperclip to make the connection.

take apart the handle bar control switch housing and look inside at what color wires go to the Kill Switch.. there is probably a bunch of dirt in there too i imagine.. i know from experience.. clean it out .. If its always having continuity in ON every time i would use the switch.. but they are really cheap to buy an aftermarket one like less than $10

i would not be surprised if there was a bunch of dirt built up inside the switch housing.. take it apart and clean. Also the 6 wire plug it goes into might have come loose at the connector from improper wire routing since you always turn your bars its easy to get hung up .. Do your lights work?

its important that you check the switch over and over flip it alteast 20 times and make sure it has a connection every time its ON

Its very simple you just put your meter across the two wires at the connector and it should look like 4 wires but only two are connected to the harness if you look inside the connector. my Ohm meter is a Blue Point one and if I have it on continuity check it beeps if it has ohms and says OFL if it has no connection. In Ohms check it wont beep but only show the value of ohms.. Im not sure how your meter is set up..

have you checked your main switch for continuity in the on postion? Continually flip the switch and check it with an ohm meter. I had a bad switch one time show sometimes good and bad while flipping it.

see if your plugs are fouled or wet.. if they are dry youre not getting any fuel of course. Try loosening the plugs and spraying some starting fluid or carb spray and see it will start..