Banchetta

don't waste your money and just buy the jets as you need them....most of the jets they supply are useless and you won't ever use them....I have one that a friend bought and gave it to me...only had 8 different sizes and another set of needles....some of the sizes were stock...

I'm pulling 53hp on a set of pistons that are 4 years old and my mods are close to yours...I'd say 53hp give or take a couple.....also depends on elevation and temp..

What kind of hill climbing?? Steep hill climps w/ bumps and jumps and vertical, or like dune hill climbing??

I can see your point in certain situations like sometimes I'll go riding w/ my buddys which have 4x4's and guess where they take me...... Some of the mud holes i have to ride my clutch a lot and wish I had lower gears since we are doing less then 2 mph for 20 minute periods......but 10+mph trails, I'd still go w/ higher gearing...reason for it, is less wheel spin and you don't have to shift between corners....there is a lot of trails up my way where if you had stock gearing, then you'd just be running out of gear in 2nd and have to shift into 3rd, then hit the brakes, downshift, and go around another corner, vs. the taller gearing can keep pulling and just as I hit my peak rpms, I'm at the next corner slowing down....I guess it really depends on the conditions..

I gained 2 hp across the whole curve w/ the +4 timing. I don't think you could gain that going from 21cc to 20cc...though I could be wrong....Good question..

310-320 and raise the needles.

You didn't answer my question about the choke tube.....If you didn't put that back on after pulling the carbs, then thats your problem...takes 30 seconds to fix it...

I agree w/ spoin....maybe even a 250 for stock pipes....Plugs check at wot will tell all....

hmmm.....

Agreed, go w/ +4 unless you have drag port and running 100+ octane fuel....I dynoed mine and found +4 to be the best and lost hp at +7...list of my mods on the bottom..

Most likely you need larger pilots...put a 27.5 in there and go from there. You should see better results by turning the air screws in to .5 turn out....your mains ONLY control wide open throttle and have nothing to do w/ idle.....

I thought that 30+ hours that we are driving is going to be insane I hope that seat is comfortable. Really how bad is it riding in the sand with a shortened swingarm and paddles? If I remember right, Led actually likes it. I'm sure I won't win any races, but that won't have much to do with my swingarm. I'll only spend 10% of my time drag racing, the rest of the time I want to spend climbing the dunes and blasting through the desert. I really like the handling with the shorter swingarm and I would hate to add a longer swingarm to make 10% of my riding time better, if it is going to make the rest of the ride suffer. By the way. This thread is also going to be 22 pages long by March. Of course the seat is comfortable, its a Chevy!!!! I ride w/ my -2 and v-paddles in the sand pits and do competition hill climbing. I love it, but Walter sais the sand is different in the dunes, so we'll see.......

I agree w/ Benn and go w/ his jetting setup to start and go from there. You should just order some jets, cost less money then buying the jet kit that doesn't have much to offer and probably the wrong sizes...

Did you put the choke tube back on between the carbs?? that'll make it start really hard....

Excuses, excuses, I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby.....I'm driving almost 60 hours and hauling other peoples quads to help get them there also.....Are we Banshee owners or Honda owners?? I'm throwing my v-paddles on w/ -2 swingarm, midrange pipes, and knobby front tires...my friend is taking his brothers Warrior....Setup!!!! I'm climbing the faces!!!

I get all mine from Magic racing.....they have a site also....magicracing.com

Your thinking that the stock spark fires exactly at tdc, but its not like that.....there is a delay from when the flywheel makes contact and the time that the spark actually reaches tdc....also you have to remember that this motor is turning almost 10Krpms....thats almost 166 revolutions per second....just think about that for a second....then you also have to consider the timing delay of the explosion...just because it sparks at tdc, you have a timing delay of spark, explosion, and actualy force pushing the piston back down....hope that helps

anyone?? Dumont trip is in 43 days or so....

efward, just take the wife w/ you......thats what walter is doing....

Pro-x pistons....they are cast, but had very good luck w/ them.... they expand and heat up at the same rate as the cylinders do where forged pistons don't.....I think the cast will outlast the forged even w/ proper warmups...My .02 I've been running the same pistons for 4 years now and only lost 3 psi in each cylinders...I'll be rebuilding this month and will post pics of the pistons and cylinders....again, this is my .02

James Lucky.....only place I know or seen them....

fuel coming out the overflows will also dump raw fuel into the motor while running making it run rich.....your floats just need to be adjusted..

The 300's are perfect if your plugs are perfect at wot....Your problem is your air cleaner and cover.....your not letting it breathe....I notice a big difference if my air cleaner gets dirty and I clean it, the throttle response and low end is night and day....cut the end of the lid 1.5" so you still have all 4 clips....or run it w/o the lid if you don't ride much mud.....

If the shee is backfiring then your definately lean...either that or you have a broken reed or air leak...

Shorten the stock swingarm, there is a lot of info on here about it and wont' cost much....cut and reweld the footpegs and move them back 2", or put Blaster foot pegs on. Shorten the shifter and brake lever 2" after....I like the Razor or Shredder tires the best for woods and pit riding....