Banchetta

Try raising the needles one clip position and shee how that does. If the shee is starting great, then leave those pilots in there.. If the shee likes the higher needles then raise them again...you could find even more hidden power....your shee will either like it or hate it.....make sure the carbs are in sync...when you check the plugs, was that after a wide open throttle run in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds or just normal riding.....normal riding will give false and richer readings....the plug test is only good to dial in the mains...

Cutting the 1.5" off is almost = to removing the whole lid believe it or not.....I found only about .5 hp difference on the dyno w/ the cut lid and w/o...Of course each run can be off by .5 hp w/ no changes, so the cutting makes great gains...I also did a run w/ a whole lid and lost 4.5 hp!!! So cutting it or removing it is a great mod and noticable,, as far as jetting, I had to go up 2 sizes on my mains w/ midrange pipes, removing the air box lid didn't affect my jetting compared to the cut lid.....

To put my vote in, a stock shee vs. a stock R...... the R will hand the shee its ass and I hate R's, but I'm just saying how it is.....the stock shee is a toilet and the long stock swinarms don't help, now this is on asphault or dirt w/ knobby tires....I'm not sure about sand tires and draggin on sand.....But thats oppion on bikes, what about rider???? Who gives a shit about machines, if you can't drag, then you'll lose, so stop running your mouth and asking oppinions, when setup is only 50% of the win....Like eribulac said, if your so damn confident, then beat him and brag about the win and $100....Till then don't bother.....

270-280 mains w/ lid on, 290-300 w/ lid off, raise the needles 1 notch w/ aftermarket reeds or raise them all the way w/ stock reeds. STock pilots.

I agree w/ funny. Try different needle positions and go from there..if anything, you'll have to drop the needles to lean it out. you might also want to remove the lid or cut the last 1.5" off the back end so you still have all 4 clips to hold the cover on.. this will make a big difference for low end and midrange.. you might have to put 300's in after for the mains..

It can't be the jetting w/ what I"ve suggested. It'd still start and run pretty damn good....Did you clean the carbs w/ an air compressor? I'd do that in case you have dried up crap in the pilots....the bowls in the carbs are different. One has a brass tube and a little jet in the bowl where the other doesn't....

sounds like the choke tube between the carbs isn't on....or maybe the bowls on the carbs are swapped so the choke isn't working properly....

This is a guestimate to get you close....I'd start w/ 350 mains, 30 pilots, stock needle clip or 4th from the blunt end...let us know what the final results are..

you guys are too much...... Hey sweetie, you might want to raise the needles another position..you might be able to get more gains...like you've seen, the needles make huge gains and you might have some more to gain....It'll either like it or hate it, but you won't know unless you try it.....all that performance is worth the ten minutes of changing the needles... As far as the mains go , run the shee wide open for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear, shut it down, pull over, and pull the plugs, black is rich, brown is perfect, tan or white is lean.....

Get the pt's and buy the silencers..Its still cheaper then new pipes..

I did the same thing as you. I didn't bother w/ the idle screws and just used my cable....make sure you sync the carbs w/ the nuts on top of the carbs, then adjust the idle w/ the adjustment on the handlebars....to sync them, make sure you have slack in the cable, then adjust the slides so they are barely touching the bottom of the carbs. Once they are the same, then adjust the idle..

STay w/ stock pilots. You don't need larger pilots for stock pipes.. You do have to get another screw or you wont' be able to get a controllable idle....You can reverse the slides...If you put the right slide in the left carb, then its backwards... the slides have a cutaway or angle on one side which you should be able to see from the intake or air cleaner side.....just make sure they are correct..

Take those dyno charts and throw them out the window. You dont' know if those shees are jetted correctly for those pipes....that'll affect the dyno a LOT....Besides, peak hp means nothing....some of the fastest quads have the least hp...Its not how much hp you have, its where you put it....

You have to be careful on what you say, since a lot of people don't understand a lot of this, you can't say 2+2=4 when it comes to dynoes since you have the variables.....Your talking a range of numbers, most people think of one number only.....

Ok,,,,first disconnect ALL the tors system,,its is worthless and you don't need it...Disconnect the 3-wire plug under the left side of the gas tank coming out of a little black box. Next disconnect the parking brake switch on the handlebars and follow the wire towards the gas tank to a connector and disconnect that....Disconnecting the thumb throttle switch will do nothing now, neither will the connectors on the carbs.. W/ that aside, your kill switch is totally separate from the tors system so you have to chase the wires back from the kill switch and see where the disconnection is...you are talking about the key switch right? The ground to kill the motor for the handlebar kill switch is a black/white or yellow striped wire coming from the kill switch and goes towards the gas tank, there is a connection, make sure its hooked up..... Next, the high rev, could have been caused by the ether you put in to start the shee...it takes a few seconds to burn off, or you could have reversed the carb slides in the carbs, look into the air cleaner side and make sure you can see the cutaway of the slides....if everything checks out, the you might have an air leak.

Da do nothing dare.....but if you want one, I'll sell you mine...

in

The problem is 2 things, ONe that screw is not an idle screw but an air screw... that affect your throttle response a lot... Two: your main problem is your running too rich on the needles..when you put the reed valves in, you richened the middle circuit a LOT...Lower your needles to the 2nd clip from the blunt end and you'll be stylin.

260's might be a hair rich, I'd say 250 mains, raise the needles to the 3rd clip from the blunt end, stock pilots, air screws about 1 turn out...You might want to check the choke tube between the carbs, and the slides to make sure they are not reversed...Is tors disconnected??

I wouldn't claim to know everything about dyno after admitting you've only had your car on one 3 times...... I have over 100+ runs on a dyno between my shee, street bike (gsxr750), Duramax Diesel p/u, and tuned in several other street bikes on dyno for performance shops.....I don't know how you can get the same numbers when the last dyno on my shee, I got 4 runs in a row w/ 1-2 hp differences between them from my motor getting hotter.....same thing w/ my duramax......I got 10 hp difference from 180 degrees (engine temp) and 195 degrees.... same goes w/ the street bikes......I'm sure you don't log in your temp. or whether or not the car was cold and just got to temp before the run or even been running for 30 minutes before the run, because this DOES matter.....engine temp will play a part, along more variable that you can shoot a stick at...Whether you spent 100 grand on a dyno or 10 grand, there are still the variables that dynoes can not correct...the more performance you get from a motor, the more sensitive it gets to everything else.....you are correct about the dyno giving you the hp numbers, but you can't put a mod on and retest a week later and say whether the mod worked or not. You must do a run to get a base, change the mod, and rerun asap,,,,the less time between runs will give the best results of the mods....

I agree w/ Blue.....Your my boy Blue!!!!! "anyone see Old School ?"

Try disconnecting the tors then. little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3-wire plug....then disconnect the parking brake switch on the handlebars and follow the wire towards the gas tank to a connector and disconnect that....let us know what happens...

My friend has his dogs cut and I was going to do the same, but it takes alot of life out of the gears....might want to consider that...

Your gone......I've been on 3 different dynoes and got 3 totally different numbers on my streetbike... I agree w/ everyone else...You CAN munipulate the dyno numbers by SAE correction, elevation, temp, humidity, etc. not including that if you strap a shee down and run it, how much hp are you losing from squatting 9" of suspension down and putting all that force on the tires to make them not spin....I've ran the same dyno 2 months apart and got a 6hp difference w/ no changes.....dynoes are for tuning only and final hp # doesn't matter, its for a reference to get a base and to tune from there....the final number can change from day to day, so final numbers don't mean anything......2+2=4 in the real world, not dyno world...

I've never had a screwed up order from Magic in over 12 years.. I buy all my jets there...