Banchetta

I really wanted to see the difference between the mids and highs, but I'll keep that in mind though John.....Thanks for the offer!!!

Trying pulling the carbs apart and blow all the little ports out w/ an air compressor. Take the air screws out and wouldn't hure to pull the pilots out when you do this too....While you have them apart, check the reed petals and make sure they are closing all the way. They shouldn't have any gap between the petals and cages.....

look there banch a get outta jail free pass........... Hmmm.....Not that I'd need that or anything.....

Post some pics if you can...

My left exhaust always smokes more when you use the choke, but when warm they should be =. I'm guessing your carbs are out of sync. Plugs will make a difference to...

wheelies-midrange or low end pipe T5 is a high rev pipe and has no low end for trails, track, or sand pits... I'd go for the sst's.....STAY w/ a midrange pipe.....

I use a 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" oak about 3' long, I've also used a piece of 3/4" reebar and used the frame for a pry...You need two prybars or objects. One on each side of the spring and compress it. Have a friend move the c-clip w/ a screwdriver or something similiar.....At least thats what I do...Be careful not to puncture the radiator....

it's a producer and director with Miramax, they are posting a flick, if once there masters arrived they magicly disapeared?......sniff, sniff i smell a lawsuit......fuckem if they cant take a joke.....i made the mistake of doing some macintosh consulting for the format we all use, with these guys and they wont let me put them with one of my staff, i signed a contract and took a deposit from them back in august, so they have me by the balls, they have a screening date that cant be changed, i didnt tell them i wanted to go riding, i said my nephews getting married and i need to be there, so there gonna try and speed things up if they can......im keeping my fingers crossed.. I'm sure a few of us can get there a day early and help you out......

Looking to buy or try some for the Dumont trip....If someone has a set they want to sell or let me use, then let me know....I don't want to look foolish on a 1200' hill w/ midrange pipes.....

I have midrange pipes which don't flow as much as high revs....I have polished cylinders, but not ported. I've tried everything to get more power w/o porting it since I like my powerband so much, I'm afraid to lose my low end...but I'm sure the larger carbs would help out more w/ drag/dune porting. How much of a bigger carb, I really can't tell you. I know my shee w/ just midrange and polished cylinders dont' like larger carbs, LRD only suggest 28's tapered to 30's for their setups....I've raced a guy w/ CPI's and 33's and he beat me and he claims to only have bolt ons and no porting, so go figure......I would say whoever did the porting should have some experience of the best carbs for his work....Sorry I can't answer this one, but there is so many variables when it comes to carb size.....

I ordered mine straight from Works and they valved them for me....when I got them, I bottomed the front end out hard coming into a hill in 3rd gear, the bumper was throwing dirt up.....I believe there was 3 rings showings on top when I got them....Now I have 7 rings showings, so I adjusted mine quite a bit and they still ride some damn soft, but don't bottom no where near as easy....So yea, you can get quite a bit of adjustment from the preload....I think mine are still only halfway..

Its not that bad, at least the valving is correct for the arms and very close to your weight....the top spring will only compress as much as the shims inside the spring will allow it to.....you can put different size spacers behind the top spring to adjust how much movement the top spring has before the spacers stop it.....They only help the beginning part of travel and if the spring is compressed alot, the the top spring may be already fully compressed to the spacers.....Hope you got all that...I weigh around 190 and when I grab my handlebars from the front of my shee and step onto the front bumper and try to bottom it, I can't....It comes very close and might touch the rubber,but won't bottom...My rear tires will actually start to lift off the ground... If they are too soft, then you can push the top collar down that holds the spring and there is a large circlip that can be moved, so you can adjust the tension of the spring......Do not try this by yourself for the first time....As far as cost for just simple rebuilding or revalving, I don't think it'll be that much....I'd say around $150 for both for revalving....Works is pretty good to deal w/..

Hehehehehe.........PARTY AT DEUCES HOUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll bring my own personal mix of drinks, and I'm sure banshee370 can back me up on this one....We have have good drinks...

You didn't respond to the rest of my post about the tors....Have you done any changes or maintenance at all before this occured?? did it come on at once or slowly??? Have you checked the reeds?? Any water on the air filter?? Does gas leak out the overflows??

You missed one Rod, make sure both kill switches are on.... Dirttrack25, nice avatar!!!

I have the stockers now. I tried ported stock carbs and 34's but both lost hp across the whole curve, so back to stock carbs.....Good luck at the drags and let us know any time differences w/ different carbs...Nice to have real world testing also...

Dumont is the first week of March. So far there is roughly 6 from the east coast...

My ptr mids do that....I'd have to say, they ping more than any other pipe I've heard....Sounds like a Harley w/ 2-stroke sound....

Certain pipes require larger pilots and will start hard w/ stock pilots....Also, is there a chance that the carb bowls got swapped?? The choke carb has a different bowl for the choke to work then the other carb....

I had a lower rod bearing that was tight once.. It would move, but it was stiff. It was my first shee and didn't know shit. I put the top end together and the bearing let go....But it went all at once....I also rushed a top end job on one of my other shees and went to put the carbs on and noticed I was missing the hose clamp for the fuel line.....I said hell w/ it and ran w/o one... I got about 15 minutes on the new motor and blew it up...Guess where the clamp was.... Took it apart, rebuilt it again, put the carbs on and guess what, the new clamp was now missing, I pulled the carb back off and felt inside the reed cage and there it was.... Sorry for the book, but if you were whacking metal off the intake, then there is a good chance that a large piece of metal went inside the intake and Whalla!!!! Check the header pipe though. I've seen broken rings stay in the header after a 6th gear wot run to a dead stop and never came out.....found many pieces of metal in the header pipe and most of the time the culprit....good luck and let us know how you make out....W/ enough examining, you'll find it....BTW, half my hose clamp was in the header and the other half was in the top of the piston..

AT wot.....tried larger mains???

Are the rings fully intact??? No pieces missing?? Grab your header pipe and shake it. The piece that caused this might be in the exhaust...

Sounds like your slides are in the wrong carbs....Look in the intake. Can you see the cutaway of the slides facing the air box??

Interesting.....sounds like the needles are too rich and you just adjusted them the wrong way. You want to lower the needles by raising the clip to the blunt end....A lean needle will cause hesitation before powerband, A rich needle will cause it to spit and sputter before powerband and won't clear up until wot.....One clip position will make HUGE changes in performance especially if your too rich..... Thats one suggestion, you said Tors was eliminated, are you talking about the carb tops or the brain of the system?? Or both?? Little black box above the left exhaust?? The pickup coil is a good suggestion from Nighty, I worked on a sled that broke the pull coil and the knot went into the pickup and bent it out...Wouldn't start unless you pulled it like Superman...but also affected lower rpms where the voltage isn't built up enough.... Let us know what you come up w/....Good problem.

I had to go up 2 sizes on mine....The needle is very important even in the drags...You don't hold it wide open before the launch so the needle is very important since you'll be at half throttle before the launch. My friend gained almost .5 second from adjusting his needle on his 250R granted it was way off, but it just proved how important the needle was....