Banchetta

Even if the water pump seal let go, that would explain the antifreeze in the tranny, but how would it get into the lower end or cylinder? Sounds to me that the crank seal went allowing tranny fluid to get into the lower end. Maybe your burning the tranny fluid and not antifreeze....right cylinder, correct?

lol......the pussie couldn't step up to enough plates for this kid!!!!! Actually I changed from being a lobsterman to a general contractor.....who would think and fisherman could become a carpenter??? lol....Then on top of that, my little baby boy is now almost 3years old....Damn, he got my drive and never stops....talk about a handful. I love every minute though. Next year, he's going to Glamis w/ me. The old lady doesn't like the idea, but thats her problem... Thanks for all the comments guys, I didn't think anyone missed me. Nice to know my knowledge helps others. Its what drives me to be here....JKJK talked me into coming back. We hooked up one day and he asked why I wasn't on anymore..I was busy as hell and didn't feel that I was doing much....John really inspired me to come back. If it wasn't for this board, I would have never met about 50 people on here which a lot of them I still ride w/ across the nation....so I'm back to help give back!!!!!! :cool: :beer: Speaking of which, Duece, you going to Glamis Presidents day??? I'll be there w/ over 70 guys from the east coast from the 12-21...

quicksand arms.

some more

Here are some pics. these were a few years ago when I was running a stock stroke w/ the ptr mids, -2 swingarm, and works shocks....Now it has a +4 swingarm, ohlins all around, and shearers.

I'm selling my shee, I've got too many quads and need to sell a couple..Its a 2000 banshee w/ '95 plastics. The motor is a 4mil stroker w/ a mx port. I have Shearer pipes on it now, 34PJ carbs, parymid reeds, NOSS head w/ extra domes, +4 swingarm w/ round housing, 2+2 quicksand arms, new steering stem, cascade seat cover and headlight covers, Ohlins shocks front and rear, adjustable timing plate, x-33 axle w/ hubs, Honda sprocket hub, etc....4,000.00 takes it, no negotiating, I have a ton of mods, this is a really good deal, my loss is your gain. If someone wants to buy the motor, then I might just part the rest of the aftermarket out and sell the quad stock.

Sounds to me that your just getting a lot of fuel running into the cylinders when the bike is layed over. Your floats could just need some tweaking, other than that. Its one of those things you might have to deal w/. Carbs aren't designed to run sideways...

Wow!!!.....I'm.....stumped.........So tors is eliminated, coil swapped, stator checked, flywheel checked, magneto pickup checked, stock setup, cleaned carbs, choke tube in place, carbs synced.....Have you pulled the air filter off to see the slides in the carbs? Make sure they are the same height. Air filter is not overoiled? There could be a chance that a critter would have been in the exhaust and plugging it??? Check for any obstructions of intake and exhaust....I'm just throwing out every possibility that I've dealt w/. Bad gas? What kind of oil are you using??? Ratio? What size plugs? Is there any way you can bring your shee to Glamis next week. I'll be there.

Over 75 guys from the East Coast will be going to Glamis for 9 days Feb12-21. We'll be at pad 2 w/ a couple of tractor trailers...Come on over and visit. Its always great to meet new people.

Shake and Bake baby!!!

You sure can, but the cool heads will help w/ cooling a lot better where usually when you increase hp and compression you have more heat....so the cool head kills 2 birds w/ one stone..

Definately put it back on......end of discussion

Just for numbers sake, not trying to bust your balls...A stock shee peaks out at 6700rpms w/ only 37hp......w/ 128psi at sea level.... Now your pushing around 60+hp at around 9000-10000rpms w/ around 185psi w/ 18cc domes at sea level....(guestimating) but will be very close....You could almost be doubling your hp mike...If you have a good dune port or topend port, you'll be around 70+hp...those are the stats, these are the numbers...I'm not making this up, maybe this is easier to understand instead of someone just telling you have to do this. Nobody has to do anything, we're just saying its cheap insurance....If a banshee came w/ a drivetrain warranty for 50 bucks for a year, wouldn't you get it??

So didn't I, for 5 years, doesn't mean it won't come apart...Its a 40% chance that it will w/ only 165psi. But the chances increase at the psi increases. If you have the motor apart, then why not weld it for 50-100 bucks and not have to worry about grenading everything you've done??? Just because you escaped death of your banshee, don't think it'll work for everyone. What if you told you friend he didn't need it, then a month later he comes back and sais the crank separated. How would you feel????? Better than that, say MIKE takes your word over ours and same thing happens, how would you feel?? Don't be taking chances on here w/ someone elses money and shee. It just shows your ignorance... Turn the idle up until its lumpy??? What the hell does the idle have to do w/ performance???? Hell, I'm going to turn the idle up on my diesel then, instead of running 12's in the quarter mile, I'll run 10's.....The only performance gain you'll get from the idle w/ be from syncronizing them, which lumpy and synchronizing just do go together....Its like comparing vaseline and sand.... Then you say you run a full synthetic in the winter, but not the summer because you like the smell???? WTF!!!! Nice choice, why not run the full synthetic in the summer, why not run castor in the winter if it smells so good? You decide on a oil for performance and lubricating properties, not for SMELL!!! You last quote is the only thing we would both agree on...quoting your shee will take just about every one here is a tough order. Especially w/ a ported shee.... I wouldn't be saying that. I've met quite a few Hqer's here and they all have some nice setups. Wayy beyond porting.

So you disconnected the tors AND the clutch switch at the same time? Or did you disconnect one, rehook it then disconnect the other??? Make sure they are both disconnected and LEAVE them disconnected. If they are not failing now, they will...Did you make sure the tube between the carbs is still in place. A lot of people forget about them when changing jets and it'll fall off when you twist or pull the carb out..there should be a 1/4"x 2" tube between the carbs. Also make sure your slides aren't in backwards. Cutaway should face the air box...One more thing, what kind of air filter are you running? If its stock, how much oil is on it...I've seen over oiled filters before w/ so much oil I could wring it out... My first guess is the tors and clutch switch, my second guess is the choke tube connecting the carbs.

Buying new paddles will only make your problem worse...Find the problem at hand and go from there...I know your running 8 paddles, but what size are your tires? 20's or 22's

As long as you run a unmodified lid, you'll never run a large main nor will you even come close to getting the full potential out of the shee. Getting some shit in the box is no big deal, thats why you have a filter....either way, if your happy, that's all that matters.

300's are too low to start w/. If I thought that would be too high, then I wouldn't recommend them. :thumbsup: the lean is mean theory is bullshit, you need fuel to make power. Try it and you tell me.

That is impossible, each side is COMPLETELY sealed from one another...I'd recheck that theory and if you get the same result, then you might want to think about splitting the cases. You center seal may be leaking or the gasket maker between the case halfs isn't sealing properly..good to see your compression is up there though...125psi on both cylinders is pretty good on a motor that is a couple of years old. Good maintenance. :thumbsup:

I would find a a-arm w/ ball joints. I haven't had any luck w/ the heim joints, they wear and have play within a couple of months....I have the quicksand arms and are very impressed. I don't like the heims and have constantly tried to get him in the past to get replacements w/ no response... If your not one for adjustments, then get the cheaper ones that are fixed. I've never really seen a bad a-arm other than the finish.... just make sure they are made of chromoly 4130. As for shocks, the Works have a really good upgrade over stock for decent money. Get new ones on ebay for 300 bucks. Just make sure they'll valve them for you. You should be able to find a decent set of arms and shocks for 1000.00 new.

Are you talking about the bolt in which is inbetween the fork spring? Or shift star center bolt? The shift star center bolts are known to come loose and need thread lock....as for the other. I've never seen that. Any pics??

I've got your back!!! :wink:

Jr. pretty well said everything I was going to say next. :thumbsup: So now you have some homework.... :biggrin: You can also try to disconnect the kill switch, just unplug the ground wire at the next connection coming from the kill switch. I had a shee that would just die on me every once in a while...maybe yours is grounding out a little.. Just a thought. My father broke a pull cord on his snowmobile, replaced it, and had a hard time starting after that...We ended up finding out that the pull cord piece went inbetween the flywheel and pickup and pushed the pickup away. It had over a 1/4" of space. We moved the magneto closer and started right up first pull after...I even had a bad flywheel once.....It would skip on high rpms just certain times. Weird as hell, never did figure out why. Changed it out and walla......couldn't find any cracks or anything.....Oh well, runs like a champ now!!!!!!!!!!!!!Let us know how you make out. I'm going to bed!

How does it start when warmed up? w/o crashing......Do you need the choke to start it when its cold? Have you checked the float level?

You must have other problems....make sure your tors isn't playing a role in this. Also make sure the choke tube is being put back in place after you rejet.....You should be able to pull a 270 in those temps w/ ease.....If the 250 doesn't pull, then you have other problems and DO NOT go leaner....Is your clutch cable switch still connected? Follow the wire from the clutch to the gas tank and disconnect it at the next connection. Now look above the left exhaust and you'll see a little black box w/ a 3-wire plug, disconnect it. Thats your tors...if it acts up, it'll act like a rev limiter before powerband and sometimes cut your spark completely off...a lot of times though, it acts like a rich main.