Banchetta

15 more!!!! This thing is insane right now.....My main concern right now is the dip....What do you think, I want the curve I had before.....Timing settings didn't change the dip at all...The only thing I haven't tried is the reed spacers....Will the 15hp hurt my lower end or torque? Hmmm... bad pic I guess. The stroker is pulling 63hp w/ the larger carbs, the old curve is my setup last year and the smoothness was insane....I love the power of the 4 mil, but my motor bogs down when I'm at the dip or rpm...I can feel it in the field. Drives me nuts when I need the throttle and it bogs out at that rpm.....

Here you go..

The do only go in one way, but the left side slide can fit the right side carb, but will be backwards...Just pull the air cleaner and look in w/ a flashlight. If the slide goes all the way down to the bottom of the carbs then they are back wards. You should see a slant in the slides from the air box...You'll also be able to see if one of them is sticking...For spark, put the plug in the boot and put the electrode end of the plug against a bolt or nut on the motor where there is no paint..

Syncing the carbs takes an extra step, but jetting is fine...

I don't think its that bad at all. When I went to Dumont, it was comparable to others, maybe a little more, but I ride hard....I haven't noticed any drastic consumptions, but that was w/ the stock intakes. I don't have enough time on the new mods to tell yet.....Give me a few weeks...

ON the dyno, no, but other tuners claim it helps in tuning carbs.....

Try raising the needles one clip at a time until the hesitation is gone. If you go too far, then it'll spit an sputter like a rev limiter at half throttle....

Make sure one of your slides aren't stuck wide open...Most shees won't start if one slide is stuck....Also make sure you didn't cross them over, the cutaway on the slides should face the air box. You might have switched the left to right and vise-versa....If its a spark problem, which I doubt if you only messed w/ the carbs, then check the Tors. Disconnect the little black box above the left exhaust and disconnect the parking brake switch...

The reason why my stator was doing it was because the wires were spliced since the plug was different...I think it was just a bad connection....So don't rule out the plug wires or anything electrical....you can test the stator w/ an ohm meter at the wire harness plug...

I agree w/ Jeff. Running it out of gas at wide open throttle could run the motor extremely lean and melt the rings to the pistons causing very low compression and will start really hard

Look, there's Walter spanking your monkey!!!!!! Inside joke at Roostfest.......

The works shocks are very good shocks....You'll see dramatic difference from stock....ONe thing to look at, the reason why they are cheap is because they are not adjustable...The fully adjustable works shocks are $900....You can also get non-adjustable Elkas for $400...so don't think they are a "Cheap shock"

+4 timing is optimum, depending on your setup and porting the spacers could hurt or help, They didn't work to well w/ my setup, but might on yours...

Jetting can vary from shee to shee and state to state...The only reason why I made such a jump about it, is because I tried running 300 mains on the dyno, before I got to 6th gear, my exhaust pipes were melting my powerdercoating off because it was running so lean and hot....I just didn't want you to hurt the new motor.....Start rich and work down, these strokers demand some serious air flow...Change the whole intake setup and you'll see some serious gains...The stroker is sensitive to the stock intake. Any intake mods will gain alot...I seen 5hp increase from changing my stock intake boots and ported cages to the prodesign intake w/ boost bottle and v-force reeds..Then gained another 2hp across the whole curve w/ the 35mm carbs and had way more low end...Something to think about........

The Ptr mids have the same top end as fatties , but way more low end...They are smooth as hell and I strongley recommend them over any twin pipe for low end and smooth powerband....That is if you don't want to lose the top end power....

the rim size has nothin to do w/ gearing. Just the outside diameter of the tire...The stock tires are either 20 or 21's and your going to a 20" flat tire which is smaller since its flat. The stock tires will also get skinny and taller w/ higher speeds. You will lose top end w/ flat tires w/ almost = gearing at lower speeds because of this ballooning affect of the stock tires...I'd gear it up some more if you like the 15/41 w/ stock tires....You may want to go w/ a 16/42 or 15/39. They are about the same gear ratio, it just depends on ground clearence or if you want the larger front sprocket.....

Try flushing the motor out w/ diesel between changes. This will take all the white oil out thats still clinging to the part....New oil will change color just from the oil already in there...I put 2 quarts of diesel in there, start it for a second or two just to get the parts splashing, drain it completely, fill it up w/ new oil, MAKE sure it is full, shake the shee around from side to side to get the upper tranny coated, recheck the dip stick, start it, run it around the yard, recheck level.....It should take about 1.5 quarts of oil after a flush......

I was running 380, 25, needles all the way down on the stock carbs I ran a 160, 42, needles 2nd clip from the taper on the 30's I ran a 160, ?, needles in the 2nd clip on the 33's Now I"m running 155, ?, needles all the way down on the 35's w/ the prodesign intake and v-force reeds.... The larger carbs make a huge difference on low end and response..They are doing the opposite of what you'd think..The stroker loves to breathe...I'm running the 35's w/ the stock air box and single K&N. I figured a way to get it to work nicely. You just have to pull the box to get the carbs off.....If your still running the stock intakes, then you have no idea how much hidden power you have waiting....

The stock curve is designed for port specs as well as the stock exhaust. The stock exhaust peaks out at 6500 rpms. Any aftermarket exhaust will peak at 8500-11000 depending if you have a high rev or torque pipe.....I've done some dyno testing w/ stock cylinders and ported cylinders w/ a 4mil stroker and both setups like the +4 degrees the best across the WHOLE curve. So I'd say the stock curve is pretty accurate....I've got a dyno sheet w/ 0, +4, and +7 timing to compare. I'll post them tonight....

Don't run 310 mains!!!!! You WILL melt it...I just got done jetting my 4 mil stroker...I'm running a 380 main, stock pilots, needles in the top clip towards the blunt end...That'll be a good startin point and go from there.....I'll give you a hint, buy some prodesign intakes w/ some 35mm carbs and you'll gain another 7hp across the whole curve...TRUST ME!!!! Best mods I've done w/ the stroker, they like to breath!!!!

If it runs strong at wide open throttle then the mains are fine, if it only does this at 1/8-1/4 throttle then its the needles. If it hesitates before powerband, then your lean and need to raise the needles. If you ride at 1/4 throtte for some time and it starts to spit and sputter like its loading up, then your too rich and need to lower the needle.....As far as the pilots, it should start easy when warm and possibly need the choke when cold....If it starts on one kick when cold and starts hard when warm, then drop the size of the pilots...

I use old plugs and run it wide open for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear and shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs......Mine are always black from normal riding but will lighten up after a hard run wide open..

I just had the same problem and it was electrical.....Ran great until high rpms, then spit and sputter....I grenaded a stator and flywheel when I went to Cali and put a spare stator and flywheel in from a couple of other hq members to get by....It wouldn't run right after and I thought it was jetting...Got home, replaced the stator and flywheel and it ran mint after..... Oh ya, you might want to check the Tors..little black box above the left exhaust and the parking brake switch....

I think your right on Ducman. The intake and exhaust aren't working together..I thought the same thing, but got tired of dynoing after 4 nights in a row and taking the carbs on and off about 30 times between different size carbs and rejetting...I put the pro design intake on and no change in the curve. The spacers caused a dip w/ my stock cylinders so they might actually help this time since the curve is at a different rpm...I took my shee out tonight for the first time since the dyno.... It is insane!!! Almost beyond control....I never thought I'd say that....As soon as I do a wheelie its hard to maintain, at 1/8 throttle the power just comes on so damn hard. Now I know why Duece is running such a high gear.....This thing needs to be calmed down....Time for a 16/39 gear... As far as pipes and needles, I'll try the needles and some more fine tuning in the fields. I have access to some T3's and some sst's....I want to fine tune the turners first, then go from there...

Read your plugs, that'll tell all, just make sure you do a wot run in 6th gear first...