Banchetta

Your only talking about .5 hp like scott said, then when we dynoed w/ and w/o the outerware, there was a .25hp loss w/ the outerware...Of course just the temp of the motor could vary the dyno that much....Basically, a K&N w/ an outerware vs, a K&N w/o an outerware and cut lid are within .25-.5 hp.....I always use the outerware and lid if I run in mud or water, but take the lid off when I ride strictly sand and dry trails...

I'd start w/ a 360 mains w/ the lid off, needles are good, pilots will vary w/ mods, you just have to try different ones to your shees likings.......Firecat...nice, I have an '03 F7 red w/ arctic graphics....Imagine that motor in a shee!!!!

Sounds like you another problem besides jetting....Is the tors still connected? Little black box above the left exhaust?? Disconnect that and the parking brake switch on the handlebars, follow that towards the gas tank to a connector and disconnect it...make sure the equalizer tube between the carbs (1/4"x2") is still on also...

That would change a few things.....

Just takes a lot of practice. The -2 swingarm helps a lot and changes the whole balance point...I could ride wheelies w/ the stock swingarm, but w/ the -2, I can ride forever in any gear.....A lot like the 4-strokes....

You can cut the lid to if you want to stop debris from flying onto the filter. Cut the last 1.5" off the end so you still have all four clips....Makes a huge difference and didn't see hardly any difference on the dyno....A full lid lost 4-5hp compared to the cut lid, then only .5hp comparing the cut lid to no lid.....

Try raising the needles one notch by lowering the clip to the 4th slot from the blunt end....

Call Magic racing in Michigan or go online magicracing.com....either that you can pick up a DirtWheels magazine and compare prices....Great magazine for purchases and info...

Try .5, 1.5, and 2.5 turns out and see which one responds the best to throttle response of the powerband...every shee is a little different so I can't answer that nor could anyone else....I've seen my shee like .5 turn out in my area, but 2 turns out 300 miles north of me......

I played w/ JKJK's shee w/ T5 pipes and those like some huge mains...I was up to a 350 and they were still borderline of lean, but passable. This was at sea level and 70 degrees out....so if I were you, I'd go straight to 350-360 at sea level and go from there....

Doesn't matter if we are just drag racing!!!! All the snow we get just melts in a day or two...We are supposed to get 1-2 inches tonight though...

yep

Try em. They could very well be just a little too high...adjust the idle knobs so the slides touch the bottom of the carb, then turn them back up 1 full turn, this will sync the carbs as well as get the idle very close to perfect...

Looks like everyone covered this pretty welll......might want to get some reed spacers....I took mine off and noticed a harder transition....the spacers do smooth out the powerband hit a little....

What about the slide height?? Did you check that to??? The motor is an air pump, it has to get air in order to rev....your slides must be held up by the cable or something...

Everyone has their opinions, but I read the strap. I get it to a dark brown color...

I try get my plugs a brown color...Tan is a scary color, I've seen 4-5 jet sizes difference to get the plug to go from tan to brown, but when it does, it happens in one jet size.......In other words, you could go from a 240 mian to a 280 main and not see any difference in color, but when you go to a 290, it changes a lot....thats what makes the tan color so scary....Find the dark brown color..

Slides are sticking or you have an air leak... PUll the air cleaner and look inside to see if one of the slides is stuck open a little. Also check the junction box where the throttle cable splits.... If the slides are all good, then spray some wd40 around the carb boots to see if you have an air leak. If you do then it'll idle up higher....

Let me get this straight....You want a good drag pipe and top end pipe, but your running a single carb setup?????? If your dragging alot and running wide open for good periods of time, then get a top end pipe and some stock carbs...CPI's..

The popping at an idle could be caused from your carbs being out of sync...I'd raise the needles one clip also...

The mains won't affect the needle position. The mains only control wot and the needles control 1/4-3/4 throttle openings....you do need a load on the motor like Ducman suggested so you have to ride it...the richer pilot will help the shee start easier and should give you better low end since the pc pipes run lean on the bottom...A lean pilot will cause a hesitation before powerband and starts hard...A rich pilot will cause a hesitation before powerband also, but will load up at an idle and starts hard when warmed up....trial and error. let us know how you make out...adjust the air screws to the best throttle response. the air screws fine tune the pilots...

Your sst's should have some great bottom end...They are sensitive to jetting. If you don't get the jetting dialed in then the low end does suffer....I've ridden two shees w/ sst's and both had a totally different power curve until my friend dialed his in...Made a huge difference...

I'd say your dead on where your at, stay w/ stock pilots and raise the needles one notch and dial in the air screws. Let us know how it comes out or if you have any dead spots in the power curve..

I would just check your plugs and adjust the mains from there, if your needles are dialed in perfect now, then drop them one notch, then adjust the air screws...pilots should be fine...

As long as they are dented to hell, get em and try em...If you don't like them, you can always get your money back...At least you'll know what they are like when you compare them to others....