Banchetta

Thats just the nature of your pipes...Jetting the needles and pilots will help some, but not all. Like Ducman said, a head mod or aftermarket heads will help some, along w/ gearing it up.....If traction is a problem then get a -2 swingarms or cut yours down....

Update: I talked to my builder, he ported it w/ 35 degrees blowdown, widened the exhaust w/ slight raise, 196 degrees exhaust, and 116 degrees intake...What does this mean to you Jim? He also put 1/4" booster ports on each side of the intake by the reeds..... Next, we went to the dyno w/ v-force reeds and prodesign intake and tried those.......Walla!!!!!! We gained 5hp and 4lbs of torque w/ stock carbs....The ported stock cages gained 2hp, and the v-force w/ intakes gained 5 more over the ported stock....WE then went to 35mmPWK carbs and tried them. Gained another 2hp and 2 more lbs of torque.......Now we're talking...The shee is pulling 63hp now w/ 41lbs of torque @8200rpms....The stock carbs pulled nicely, but the 35's pulled extremely harder (about 4-5hp) between 1-6000rpms, then stayed the same until 7500rpms and pulled harder by 2hp on top......So much for the theory of larger carbs have no low end....... I'm happier w/ my motor now, but I still have a nasty dip at 5500 rpms....any ideas???

Hard to say w/ all those configs.....I'd start w/ the 390 's and go from there....

You need low end or midrange pipes...Any stock or high rev pipe will act like that...the 2 into 1 carb setup might help, I have no experience w/ it, but I do know the pipes is what makes the power curve...

I'm seeing 2-4 sizes difference between Cali and Maine....Anyways, for T5 pipes and porting...I would start w/ 350 mains, needles in the 4th clip and try a smaller pilot as well....Do one thing at a time...Your plugs seem close, the pilots could be giving you richer readings when your checking the needles....the pilots works ALL the time so keep that in mind...Find the combo between pilots and needles...you might want to try a leaner pilot and richer needle....you have to figure out which is better for your bike....JKJK's shee w/ T5's ran great w/ 350 mains and needle in the 4th clip from the top w/ stock pilots in Dumont....You have porting so that'll make you a little different..

I wouldn't be taking advice for that person anymore........

Sounds like a big main...Try running it wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, coast to a stop and pull the plugs. You want a brown color, not light brown or tan or black.....

If your lean it will just take a while to rev out. If your too rich, then it'll spit and sputter......

Too rich of a needle will gurgle or spit and sputter, too lean will make it more hesitant....Ducman hit it right on the nose..Try different combos w/ the pilots and needles..most of the time you can work out the bogs....I like leaner pilots and richer needles, but others like the opposite... whatever works for you....

Your lean if it clears up at 3/4 throttle.. Also 6th gear will need more fuel than 4-5 gears.....Bring it up 2 more sizes on the mains and do a wot run...

Pt mids for slow or fast trails, or 2 into 1 for slow and tight trails...

UPDATE:.....I tried the stock, 30mm carbs, and 33mm carbs and pulled the same exact hp and torque and the same exact curve to go w/ it..... Go figure....Next, I lost a lot of low end torque between 3000-6000rpms and lost hp as well and now created a bad dip at 5500rpms...We're testing the reed spacers in both positions tomorrow to see if that'll take the dip out....So far, my peak torque curve only moved to a higher rpm w/ no gain, and the hp also moved higher w/ a 5hp gain...My curve pulls hard from 6000rpms to 8800....Jim, any ideas why I didn't gain any torque??? He might not have decked the cylinder (lowered it), it was mentioned when I brought the motor, but I don't think he did considering there is only a 2mm plate on top and he said I should have the same compression as before. I'm going to see him tomorrow to get some info....and see what he says....

Turning the air screws out too far increases air flow passed the slides so the motor will rev higher....it doesn't take much.....I've NEVER seen lean pilots rev a motor that you can't control w/ the idle screws...If its revving, then the motor likes it. why choke it out and hurt throttle response?????

Throw the stock pilots in and raise the needles one clip to the 4th notch from the blunt end.....Then pull the air box cover off...or mod it by cutting the last 1.5" off the end so you still have all 4 clips... this will help a lot...Running 300 mains is too big w/ the cover on...

I'd go up to 250 mains and do a plug check at wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds....

stock pipes,.......I'd just adjust the air screws... the stock pipes don't flow too much and dont' react as well to air filter and box mods....

I have a torque or low end porting, Hot Rod crank, decked the cylinder, and put a spacer plate between the head and cylinders. The transfers were done, it was case matched, I'm running a +4 timing, and 165psi...Also have the long rod....Its going on the dyno tomorrow eve. I'll know more then, I'll be testing some ported stock reed cages, 30mm carbs, and if I have time, the stock and 33mm carbs. What are you thinking Jim?? My builder thought I'd turn less rpms and have more torque, but less hp......From what I've seen and ridden so far, it has less bottom end, but a shit load of more hp and torque at a higher rpm......Not sure if my stock reed cages are holding me back......we'll see tomorrow....

You held it wide open for 10 seconds just free revving??? That would do it...also the fact that it will overheat if your not moving and that'll sieze the rings to the pistons from the heat....I strongely doubt its the jetting since the 170's were too big. The 160's should have been really close to perfect, I think you overheated it or revved it out w/o a load...

Thats not a lean problem....Sounds like your oil/gas mixture was too lean or you "cold siezed it" . What are you running for oil? Ratio? Forged pistons or cast? Was the motor warm before you revved it? Did the lower end fail also?

I wouldn't worry about it. A lot of carbs don't have air jets, just pilots, mains......Sorry about the blowing up, that sucks.....what do the pistons look like, doesnt' mean the leanness did it....

If gas is pouring out the exhaust then going richer won't help....check the float height, sounds like your dumping raw fuel into the motor...you might want to figure it out before you "wash your rings out"

hmmm.....its getting air somehow...the cable has play where?? by the thumb?? make sure the junction box for the cable isn't binding and also check the carb tops to make sure the tube is in the top and not pulled out....If thats all good, then pull the air cleaner and look at the slides, make sure they are both "bottomed" out fully, the slightest lift (1mm) will make the motor rev 1000rpms...

Don't worry, 00Banshee has your back and got me on spelling!!! . Parenthesis, parenthesis, parenthesis, parenthesis......

I don't think a jet goes in there....I may be wrong, but why is this a concern? ARe these carbs new or used? What makes you think an air jet goes there? Some carbs have an opening for the air to mix w/ the pilots for fine tuning the throtte response using the air screws..

over flow tube. nothing really important, but gas will pour out onto the motor when you do a wheelie...