Banchetta

Need to know all your mods, pipes, jetting, temp, elevation, height, weight, male, female, where you work, rent or own, etc. etc......Then we can understand exactly why you have no low end....need more info.

Top end rebuild= new pistons/rings, boring......I'd check the compression. If its low, then pull the head and measure the roundness of the cylinder...The cylinders will wear egg-shaped over time since the force of the crank is from front to back, the sides won't wear much at all...If its out of round, then bore it and put some oversize pistons in there...You have the right idea, rebuild it now while everything is intact. Once it goes, then you have to pull the crank and inspect it and worry about the metal that went into the lower end bearings....

Where the hell is New Zealand? I thought it was around Europe.....

Gary is pretty cool, give him a call. If you want ball joints, then I can't see why he won't put them on instead....Its no harder for him...

Just as your getting out of work, he's ready to go to bed..... small time change...

Works triples...they are the best bang for the buck like Boony said. I love them and are a HUGE difference over stock...I might get some Axis this summer though..I'm getting too crazy for the works....Downhill jumping at 60' and bottoming out really sucks....especially when you blow the front tire.. As for mods. If you plan on getting porting or stroker work done. Plan on another $700-900 for intake mods....It won't be the porting or stroker that'll cost you. Its the intake mods that the other mods need to go w/ it....Trust me.

I am using Walters right now for testing, but will soon be buying some 35's or larger for my shee. Pm him and ask him if he wants to sell them...

Why wait a year?? Motor is already broken in after 40 hours....Port it!!!! Put a stroker in there...

I've never had a pin shear off. the pin is stronger than the plastic....For $10, I'd find a really fast way to get it off..... BFH, grinder, sawsall, etc.

Boon, I think your scaring him..... I'd pull the cylinders and have them checked out like Boony said to see how much you'll have to bore it to clean them cylinders up....Once you pull the cylinders. (which will take about 15-20 minutes ) then you can move the rods back and forth to see if one of them is siezed or moving hard. If so, then you need the crank rebuilt or buy another one...If they both move freely w/ no up/down movement on the crank, then you just have to flush it out thoroughly which will only cost you a lower gasket ....Keep diggin and let us know what you find...

There is a pin that goes through the gear and through the shaft......

And I thought I was easy on my equipment......

I agree, if your not pulling any harder at wot from 3/4 throttle then your either lean or too rich on the mains...Run it wot in 6th gear, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs...what color is the strap?? Or post a pic...

Silver specs on the plugs indicate detonation which means you have a hole in the piston or melted the top of the piston severly...most like you need a rebuild. Pull the head off, takes 5 minutes and once you see inside. YOU"LL KNOW.....

I have hiem joints and they wear very quickly...I have a little play in mine after a year and a half.....Other than that, I like them...

Jimmy, I've been thinking a lot about the gains of the intake and reed cages.. I think the gains were from the cages more than the intake....Reason for it, is because I had the smaller carbs w/ the smaller boots on the intake and only seen 2hp increase from the stock carbs to the 35mm carbs....This is w/ the v-force on for both setups...The smaller boots on the intake are = size to the stock intakes....So I'm thinking the v-force are making that much of a difference (6hp looking at my dyno charts...) If you can only get one mod right now, I'd get some v-force or pyramids first...I'm getting some pyramids for this weekend. Hondas..................... He better have that NOS setup, he'll need it...

Every shee is a little different, but my shee liked the stock pilot better for throttle response...It started up better when cold w/ the 27.5 pilots, but the response of the powerband wasn't as great.....The needle height isn't as sensitive as other pipes, I had to really try to FEEL the difference.....find the best spot for you. I usually raise the needles as high as I can w/o it spittin and sputtering from being too rich...Every shee seems to run the strongest one clip before it breaks up for the needles...As for the mains, check the plugs after a wot run in 6th gear......Let us know what you come up w/...

The 2-stroke burns oil which gives a different color then on a 4-stroke...Thats why you can't read the strap on a 4stroke....I've tried reading plugs for a 4-stroke numerous times....Waste of time, time trials work better and more effective in the field. Takes about a 1/2 hour, but has great gains w/ max performance....As for 2-stroke readings. I read the strap on old plugs...some won't agree...to whoever, but the strap measures heat range...If the motor can't burn the oil on the plug, then your too rich, since the motor can't burn everything cleanly...A black plug strap will show this...If the strap is tan, then its burning the oil completely to a crisp meaning that its hot....You want to get that inbetween chocalate brown color...This is when your motor is burning all the oil cleanly w/o burning to hot....Yes, you can use old plugs w/ a long enough run, the plug will burn in......At 1200 degrees, it WILL burn in.....But, the oil in the gas is what helps determine the color since oil takes more heat to burn in, not the gas....

I'm not sure if I fully understood you, but it sounds almost like the clutch is slipping....It revs up fine when shifting into 6th, but if you let off and get back on it, it doesn't rev up right away....Is that what your saying, if so , then the clutch is junk....If not, then try different needle positions..If its fine at wot, then bogs out at 3/4, then the needles are lean. Raise them up and notch. If that helps, then try another notch. Find the sweet spot...Thats jetting, trial and error...

Boost bottle won't do anything for bottom end....Get a set of midrange pipes if you want bottom end or get the 2 into 1 exhaust...

I'd check your water impeller...they are known to fail once in a while....

I had to go up 3 main jet sizes on mine...w/ stock porting..

300s or 310s might work good. I'd say def. put the needle in the 4th clip and that will probably help some. One clip position is equal to about a 1/2 main size, so by going one clip leaner you can run a tad bigger main, so if you figure 300 with 5th clip, 310 with the 4th might be just right. Also, reading plugs is easy. You don't really have to chop it every time, I only chop mine if I think there's something funky going on or I'm having trouble making out the colors or something. Look for the strap to be black (not wet or oily) and the ceramic tip to be chocolate colored. Here's a good article on reading plugs. It's important to know how, becuase you can't properly tune your carb without reading plugs. Reading Spark Plugs. That article is for 4-strokes......