Banchetta

How does it start when cold?? how many kicks and do you need the choke. Have you checked the compression? What is it? Make sure the equalizer tube is in place and the slide cutaway is facing the air box..

Your plugs will always look black under normal riding. You have to run it wide open for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear to burn it in to color...If not, your wasting your time... the hesitation can be taken out w/ the air screws for stock pipes...

How is the power at lower rpms???Are they a high rev pipe?

what about the tors?? little black box?? parking brake switch??

Tan!!! Your too lean, go up on the mains and redo the plug check... I wouldn't trust any local shop, ESPECIALLY, and I mean ESPECIALLY w/ jetting. Its and art and take a lot of time to correctly dialing in a shee...The local shops will just throw in some jets and charge you top dollar...Rejet it yourself and you'll be a lot happier..For all you know, they only changed one side....

Pc pipes are hard to start w/ stock pilots anyways. Throw some 30 pilots in there, you need it...some others have posted, make sure the equalizer tube in conncected and that you haven't swapped the bowls on the carbs..

Your jetting sounds fine and your problem is not jetting related, svtkid hit it right on. you have a cable problem somewhere, if you can't find it, then get a new one because its fetching up somewhere, last thing you want is for it to stick wide open!!!

Sounds like the mains are too lean. what are you running for mods and jetting?

The will rust within a week if you don't use something. Trust me!!!! Take them down and have them powdercoated for like $75...make sure its a high temp powdercoat like 1200 degrees. The 400 temp won't work...

check your reeds....

Choke has no affect....did you swap the bowls on the carbs?? one bowl has a brass tube and little jet in the bottom for the choke, make sure that bowl goes onto the choke carb....when you say bog, does it spit and sputter or just hesitate before powerband?? How does it start? Does it start hard when cold? do you have to use the choke?? I need as much detail as possible...

I tried ported stock carbs on my shee and lost hp across the whole curve on the dyno.....that is w/ stock porting... I'm currently running 28's taper bored to 30 and will be doing some dyno work w/ stock, 30's and 33's so keep in tuned in a couple of weeks...

You shouldn't have to change the jets, since there is almost no air flow difference between the cut lid and no lid.....My plugs read the same w/ or w/o the cut lid.

Go to fmf website.... I think its fmfracing.com and see what they suggest, then go from there... Adjust the mains by the plug after a wot run, then change the needle height according to feel, then pilots and air screws to throttle response....

Main goes onto the splash guard or into it....start w/ 350 mains, needle in the 4th clip from blunt end and stock pilots and adjust air screws to throttle response....

A richer pilot will make it rev higher if he was lean to begin w/......If the motor is lean, then you have to raise the slides to get the needles to work a little for better air/fuel mixture....

Leave the stock pilot, raise the needle to the 4th clip from the blunt end or even 5th clip if you have stock reeds....adjust the air screws to throttle response. Adjust your mains from the readings of the plugs at wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds....You should be close w just the snorkel removed or might be 1-2 sizes lean......Fmf recommends 30 pilots, but I haven't found a fmf piped shee that didn't like the 25's better...at least in my area....

I'm in w/ or w/o friends.... I'm sure a couple of others will be there though...Meat, most people drag 300' or 500'...

Your pretty close...you shouldn't have any gas or wetness around any tubes or boots...sounds like a leak..fix that and run the shee wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, then pull the plugs...idling will give you false plug readings and won't tell you nothing about the mains unless you run the throttle wide open..

stock size....26's...larger carbs won't help until you port it..

Up the mains 2 sizes for the cut lid vs whole lid...

As far as I know they are the same...sounds like you sheared the key, that'll put your timing way off and cause the problem....let us know what happened.

Put a head on it and get the same difference all over again...

What about torque comparisons? Can you post the dynoe results?? This is some good info, thanks for sharing it...I'll be testing the stockers, 30's, and some 33's in a few weeks w/ my stroker kit. Its nice to see what affects what....

Does it sound like its breakin up?? Like spittin and sputtering like the choke is on?? If so, then your running too rich on either the pilot or needle...Does it idle and start great?? If so, then leave the pilots for now...Lower the needles...I normally suggest to raise them, but larger pilots will affect the needle height and will have to lower them because of this...I only suggest larger pilots for Pc pipes since they run so lean on the bottom...try lowering the needles to the 2 clip from the blunt end and go from there...You can also diagnose quickly by taking the air box cover off, this will lean it out and give you a lot more hp..the air box holds back a lot...Try the air box cover first, if it still persist then try lowering the needles, if it still persist then try disconnecting the tors above the left exhaust and the parking brake switch....another thing to check is to make sure you put the equalizer tube back on between the carbs after you pull them out....