Banchetta

Your not gonna give us another excuse and not go again, are you Boony??? Your going, even if I have to drive to your house, kidnap you, strap you to your shee and tow you both down... Rod, give me a shout, I left a message on your answer machine....

Great info Deuce, I'm gonna do that..Are you running spacers?? I'll also try the low tension settings on the v-forces...Its supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so its test and tuning time.....The hp might seem low, but the torque is up to 41lbs....I'm also only turning 8800 rpms...HP goes w/ rpms. Less rpms will create less hp....My intentions were built on torque and not hp, but the quest goes on.... Once I try every option out there, then it'll be another set of pipes...This motor likes to breathe, so I WILL get my most potential out of it.....I'm thinking about getting some Pt high rev headers.....

Try raising the needles. Keihins are very sensitive w/ needle positioning. The hesitation is lean, if it sputters like a rev limiter, then its rich...

The clamp ons will give you more power, but won't like water very much...I run the air box w/ my stroker and no probs....Depends on what you want....versatility or max hp.....

NO idea, never heard of GGR. Ask them, they should know if its their pipe and porting....At least this will give you a base to start..

Check the choke tube, and make sure you didn't leave any rags in the exhaust when you had it apart. I know someone who did that......

Run a tank of 114 octane, that'll clean out a lot of carbon throughout the motor...It cleaned my silencer on my streetbike!!

Rod, I'm running the reeds on "high" tension.....I haven't tried low tension. How do you change it?? Duece, thanks for the ideas, I take it that you bent the arms down so you could slide the air box back...Do you zippy tie the box there. What holds it in place besides the carbs? I cut my intake tubes also so my airbox fits tight, but works...I like your mod though, I'll be able to run spacers...I owe you..

Some setups will run great when lean, but will melt down, there is still more power w/ some richer jetting, you just won't know it until you do it.... I'd start by doing a compression test asap...Find out whats going on in that motor first, then go from there. Next, I'd check the stator to make sure your getting the ohms your suppposed to. Next check all connections for the stator and plug wires.....Make sure you have a strong spark. You can get the ohm specs from Ricky Stator, give him a call and find out, it'll only take a few minutes to check....Let us know what you come up w/....

So you switched the wires and the opposite cylinder dropped out...correct? If so, then you have a bad plug wire or bad coil......

Go richer. JKJK's shee like the 350 mains out at Dumont.....He has T5's w/ single K&N w/ lid....

I watched Benbb do that at Dumont, lost spark on my shee so he held the plug....Crazy bastards.....

Jetting can be funny. My stock cylinders would cut out w/ 280 mains like someone hit the kill switch. I went to 300's and its jetted perfect.....Then I've seen other pipes and setups run great w/ 200 mains, but are lean, and we end up running a 290 for optimum jetting...so go figure.....the main jet only controls wide open throttle, so it could be possible the main jet is too lean..Drop a 300 in there, if it still persist, then you have an electrical problem....Lets start from the beginning. What are all your mods, jetting, temp, elevation, when did this problem start?

Here is a graph comparing the stock intake and ported stock cages vs the prodesign intake w/ v-force reeds....

Here's a close up graph at lower rpms...

I believe the 5000rpm range is running rich...A few different dyno runs would break up and spit and sputter when I got into that rpm range. So its running rich, I'm thinking the porting isn't matching my pipe......????? Think reed spacers would help w/ the crankcase pressure and eliminate that dip?? Here is a graph from last year in comparison of the spacers on the stock ports....

The stock air box can't go back unless your suggesting to move the coolant bottle?? I've dyno tested w/ the air box at first and got tired of trying to remove the carbs, so we then tested w/o the air box completely and run the carbs w/ no filter for the dyno...We still got the same curve.....I ran 28pwk taper bored to 30's w/ custom needles, 33mm carbs (not sure what kind of needle), 35mm carbs w/ DE? cant remember, and stock carbs w/ stock needles....All four carbs produced the same exact curve.....I doubt all these carbs have the same needles, but I'll check tomorrow and let you know what all the needles are....Here is the carb graphs...

Boggy and sputtery are two different terms. The boooaaahhhh is the bog, which is caused from being too lean. A sputter is when is sounds like its skipping and giving a choppy affect which is caused by being too rich...I'd raise the needle until you get it to sputter, then back it down one clip.....As far as the pilots...Do you have to use the choke to start it when cold?? Have you tried adjusting the air screws for throttle response?? If so, where do they like to be?

350 mains, stock pilots, and needles in the 4th clip from the blunt end....This should get you really close...

Yep...Do you still have the stock one?? If so, then replace it. Get some new steel plates and pressure plates....I just put a EBC clutch in mine. Pulls nice and holds up to my new stroker...

LIght brown could be lean, dark brown is optimum......

Sounds like the clutch is junk....

Maybe when you tapped the holes for the idle screws, there is a burr inside the carb holding the slide....I'd just look through the intake of the air cleaner w/ a flashlight and see if the slides are "bottomed out"....then go from there....you should be able to move the throttle up and down and hear the slides hitting the bottom...

Dragracing is 50% motor and 50% rider.......

Try different needle positions, if its hesitating before powerband, then your needles are too lean. Raise the needles one clip at a time until the hesitation is gone...Raise them too high and it'll spit and sputter like a rev limiter....