Banchetta

Like loco said, something doesn't sound right. I know 5 other guys that have 4mils from different builders and we are all running around 162 mains....We are all at sea level as well. What is your elevation? Air box mods??

Stock pipes..........240 mains, stock pilot, needle 3rd or 4th clip. try both. Adjust air screws to throttle response.

I gained a solid 2hp across the whole curve on my 4mil, but that is a stroker. I wouldn't expect that much gain on a regular stroke...most people that feel gains is because their jetting was off to start w/. The aftermarket reeds will richen the needle circuit which most shee like once you pipe them. So if someone doesn't have their jetting right and puts aftermarket reeds on and feels a difference. They credit the reeds when actually they richened the mixture, which could have cost nothing w/ a little bit of jetting..A properly jetted shee should have to lower the needle when aftermarket reeds are installed.

You say oil is coming out from the header pipe???? Where the header goes onto the cylinder??? Then your o-ring in the header pipe is gone or never put it in. That'll affect a lot of the symptoms your describing. Change that o-ring and go from there. It has to be a high temp o-ring.....

like Jr said. Both sides spark at the same time. I'd do a leak down test and check the exhaust to make sure nothing got in there.....My shee did something similiar to find my builder put a shop rag in the exhaust port on one side. I didn't see it, put the pipes on and only one side was running strong, the other side had wet plugs and not much air flow out the exhaust...Took me a couple of hours to figure that one out....

I can run my shee through a foot of snow w/ the -2 swingarm and 10 paddle haulers. I can run my shee faster through the tight trails then the sleds can w/ just knobbies on groomed trails....I'm talking tight trails though like under 40mph.... I bet a set of skis on the front of a shee w/ 10 paddle haulers would kick ass....I have 2 extra sets of skis from my sled, maybe I could try it out...I'm selling my sled if anyone is interested....Arctic Cat Firecat F7 w/ the F9ss kit in it....Ohlins suspension and a shit load of mods. 185hp. 6500.00

DITTO!!!! And you'll have em. :cool:

Does one of your buddies run pc pipes? Pc pipes really like a rich pilot. He stated that it won't idle w/o the air screw being all the way in, which tells me that the shee wants to be richer....I don't think he has a pilot issue if thats the case. I think there is something else at hand.

Not at this time...I just cut straight across the cover from side to side just missing the clips in the rear...just don't cut the clips off...

Your jetting is very close....Try pulling the stock lid off and go from there. You'll notice a lot more low end response and pull...If your air screws like to be all the way in, then your not rich. You can mod the lid by cutting the last 1.5" of the end of the lid right behind the clips so you still have all 4 clips....the stock lid really holds back the shee....also make sure you still have the equalizer tube on between the carbs, cutaway in the slides are facing the air box and carbs are in sync...

Are you saying that if you run out of gas that you could sieze the motor???? Yes, that is true, for 2 reasons....one, your running the motor lean and causing it to build more heat which could melt the piston. Two, when you run out of gas, you are not giving the motor any lubrication, which again, can sieze the motor or dramatically wear the rings in a short time... Now if "Miss of gas" means something else, then you need to explain it differently. "Pistons can grip" must be another term for "siezing" I'm guessing?

Cut the last 1.5" off the end of the cover towards the back right behind the clips so you still have all four clips....I use a skillsaw, takes 2 seconds...that'll give the shee all the air it needs and still protects the filter pretty good....

Try switching the spark plug wires and see if the same cylinder persist.. equalizer tube between the carbs on??? New plugs? How were the reeds? Disconnect the tors brain? (little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3-wire plug)

What are all your mods? Air box setup?

Make sure you have no air leaks, carbs are in sync, stock pilot is a 25. Adjust your air screws, make sure the equalizer tube between the carbs is in place, carb slides are in the correct carb (cutaway in the slide should face the air box)....Check your compression, you may be ready for a rebuild...low compression will start hard.

The pilot sounds rich and the fuel screw being 2.5 turns out veryifies that....Try a 152 main, 45 pilot, needle 3rd clip and go from there....

Did you move the needle and adjust the air screw at the same time???? Are you at sea level?? Every toomey I've played w/ liked the 5th clip from the top the best at sea level..... 300-320 mains, 25 pilot, needle 5th clip, adjust air screws to throttle response...

What was the jetting before you moved??? Use the same jetting, go down one size on the pilots, and down 2-3 sizes on the mains. You might have to drop the needle one clip as well.

I'd start w/ 300 mains, 30 pilots, needle 3rd clip...mains might be rich at 70 degrees out, depending on much they ported it....my shee had similiar mods and ran great w/ 270 mains at 70 degrees out w/ stock porting..You should be good w/ 300's at 40 degrees out though.

Those are pretty big mains w/ the air box lid on originally, so just putting the new lid on, you'd have to jump the mains a few sizes...the stock lid really holds back the air a piped shee needs...the porting sounds aggressive on the intake. Sounds like a dune port, but I'm no genius on porting specs. But given that, your mains sound about right...If the plugs look great and the shee pulls hard and revs out quick, then I'd say your very close...Your shee looks pretty good. :thumbsup:

:woot: :yelrotflmao:

A rich pilot will start great and idle great when cold, but once the shee warms up, you'll notice you'll have to crack the throttle to start it and it won't idle as good when the engine is hot...Your pilot may have a very slight effect on top, but very minimal. Where the temps are rising, I wouldn't worry about it...Like loco said, try a 48 pilot and see how it feels...if it gets even better then try a 45, etc....you won't know until you try....you might have a lot to gain...from what your describing, I'd say you do...You should have to use the choke below 60 degrees out. If you can start the shee below 60 w/o a choke in the first kick, then your too rich. A cold motor needs more fuel than a hot motor...so if the shee likes the pilot cold, then its too rich when the motor is hot.... When you start to get too lean, your shee will start hard even w/ the choke and will hesitate going from idle to 1/4 throttle or full throttle..sometimes and slightly rich pilot will have the same affects as a slightly lean pilot, but the one in the middle just WORKS!!!

...........wow...........That is just moronic of them.....that just shows everyone that the companies out there can be really out to lunch when giving jetting recommendations.....thats why I don't believe any jetting recommendations especially from the exhaust companies...good post!!

The cover is a 2 layer cover. Did you only cut the top leaving the bottom layer there? Then you have gained nothing...Do you have the pro-flange in the air box so you don't need the cover? If not,then I'd be ordering one right now. The stock foam will let sand by and you'll go through pistons a lot faster. If you have one, then try running the shee w/o the lid, or the best way to mod the lid, is to cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips so you still have all four clips. I use a skill saw. Takes 2 seconds and works great w/ keeping mud and sand off the filter. At the same time not restricting any air flow. The stock lid really holds back a shee.