broke

Try adding some RZ jugs to that set up and you'll really see some low end.

Moron!

They probably are the best midrange pipes, as the name implies. They don't have as much low end as a 2:1, but they will rev out on top better. They do have expansion chambers, the pipe itself is just shaped differently. They are with out a doubt the smoothest pipes I have ever used. There really is no hit which is saying quite a bit for a Banshee pipe. I agree the reason people jump on them so quickly when they find a used set is because they cost so damn much new. I don't know why no other company has tried to build a pipe with a bend like the PTR's, there are many days I still regret selling mine.

Jason

Sredish, Yeah, I know there is alot more to take into consideration besides just volume. I'm posting this more to learn rather than argue over stuff I know very little about. The 2:1 has constant velocity because each cylinder is pulling air 50% of the time or @180 degrees of engine rotation. Considering how long it actually takes for the intake ports to open and close, how much vaccum is actually lost on one side? I will base this off of 6000 rpm just for simpler math. At 6000 rpm the motor is turning over 100 times a second. Which is 200 firing cycles a second on a Banshee. If you just look at one cylinder at a time it's back to the 100, that means that the intake tract is seeing vacuum that many times also. Considering how fast the intake charge is going through the carb(s), reed and intake tract, How much would it actually slow down in 1/100 of a second? I'm just curious. Granted on a 2:1 this number is moved down to 1/200th of a second. I'm just curious if the minute amount of time difference really means much. I would actually love to use a 2:1, but I don't think the carb sizes that it uses would be enough. I would like to hear how yours and others with ported motrs like the 35mm single or if any one had tried swapping back and forth on ported motors. This is getting kind of long winded so I will stop here.

I've been wondering if the bigger carbs could be made to work with a 2:1 set up. If you really think about the areas of the different carbs it doesn't seem to be that big. (1) two stock carbs 26mmx2 1061 cubic mm (2) 40mm single 1256 (3) 35mm single 962 (4) 33mm single 854 A 37mm carb would give you roughly the same area as a set of stockers at 1075. I'm sure there are other factors at hand, but if you just go by the numbers anything short of a 37 would give worse top end than stock. Keep up the good work and let us know how it goes.

There's a guy that really knows his shit too. After he got sick, I never really heard anything about him again. I had read somewhere that he had some issue with being in the US and insurance. I hope he's still in the field back home, He does build some fast stuff.

Mostly stock. Newer Factory replacement frame(has no Vin on new frame.) Gold Series pipes with Toomey silencers. Aftermarket Aluminum rear hubs, but I have no idea what kind. Holds just under 110lbs in both cylinders. Runs good, but could use a new set of carb caps.

I have close to the same set up that it sounds like you want to run. Head is cut for 100 octane MX National style port (slightly more top end) 30 mm FS carbs V-force Rocket pipes PTR mids have great bottom end but don't rev for shit on top. The RZ has such good bottom end that I didn't reall sacrifice much by changing to top end pipes. It's a great set up with a VERY broad powerband. broke

I have no idea how anyone actually keeps a quad that clean.

Now that would be fun.

Does that dumb shit have the paddles on backwards?

It looks to be a nice bike. I'm not familiar with the model, but it's pretty much an Amp linked 4 bar which IMO is the best all around rear suspension out there. I had a Specialized FSR team downhill frame with that rear end on it and it worked great. The rear shock looks to be a Fox TC or RC with at least rebound, I don't see the compression dial on the piggy back but it's still a good shock. Marzocchi forks are great, once I tried my first one I never went to any other brands, I had two Z-1's, a Monster T and a Shiver on various bikes. Hayes front and rear with 8" rotors are a part you will never need to upgrade. I think those are Truvative cranks, but does that thing have more than one front gear? I see the front deralier(sp), if you are going to be hitting some pretty nasty terrain, A single fornt with some sort of MRP ish chain guide might be in order. Considering where you're from, you will have great terrain to really abuse that thing. I spent one year racing some of the Norba Nationals in the US and alot of the fast guys were from your neck of the woods. Advice, keep your weight back, learn how to spin good because those bikes will bounce all over the place if you have a sloppy spin. LEARN HOW TO FALL, no joke.

If you are trying to get more air in you will definately have to rejet unless you're running really rich already.

I would have loved to have had an R6 while still in High school.

Owned again. Everyone is making you their bitch!!!!!! Why don't you just

You'd be a fool not to. Very nice set up for what amounts to the cost of the front end alone. Why don't these deals ever come my way?

Do you mean suffe"ring"?

In IL we don't need to have the bike licensed. The quad will come with a bill of sale, but as for the lack on VIN on the frame I don't really know how you would have to go about that.

Last try, new price.

What length?

It depends on where they are missing, or if she just takes them out until she is done.

My friends have turned into a bunch of domesticated pussy-whipped oversleeping anything else to do sissies too. Thankfully because of this board I was able to find others within 150 miles that will actually ride. Good luck and if you find a cure, please let me know.