locogato11283

ive never seen one of them there stock banshees..that things prolly worth some bucks!!

check to make sure that when you turn your wheels one way or the other that the ears on the steering stem arent startin to slip past the stopper. that could be it or like eastcoast said, the tie rod may be bent. thats really your only 2 ways this problem can occur.

i run a FAST clutch too..been goin strong for 2 full years now. not one problem with it...

its easy. to find the winner you must take the stated displacements of the two bikes. 350+450=800. 800/2=400. so, the displacements once added and then divided equal 400 its pretty simple to see that a 400ex would win...

i prefer, "beauty is only a light switch away!"

looks like some rotax cylinders on a banshee bottom end. thats a sick lookin bike!

im sorry but the correct term is "bulbs of light"..

its all gonna depend on what your motor can pull..i would start with one tooth and work from there. 16 tooth on a pretty much stock banshee is not gonna work very well...you need some power to pull gearing like that.

what bikini??? i see a bitch waitin to get railed...

dave moore is who i was referring to in my post. im almost positive he didnt charge me 120..his work is excellent and you can bet your ass itll be perfect..

dave moore cut the one in my 10mm and cameron at redline did my 4mm tranny. both work excellent.

go with a duneable override. ive got a 2-4 on my 10mm cub and its great. i can shift up and down no clutch or with the clutch. you dont need an aftermarket 2nd gear. straight cut gears for the clutch basket is recommended but if you dont at least use 2 clips on the clutch side crank bearing. youre prolly gonna need a lockup too..

thats fuckin ridiculous...one of the best builders in the world trenched my cases for my 10mm and charged me 100 bucks...

im happy to report that after our bar night stephen took home a 26 year old...it was a good night with shots, drink and even some nasty ass strippers..helllsss yeaaa..

waste of time unless you need to clear the clutch arm because of bigger carbs..

get ahold of wesw here on the site. hes prolly got more time invested in jetting a passion motor than anyone.

i dont think you can get a half link for it. even if you do i have heard they can be dangerous to use, not sure why. how about just putting on a one tooth bigger rear sprocket?? do u have stock swingarm? if so you can notch out the adjustment guides a little further. they are on the bottom where the bottom bolt goes thru. ive done that before on stockers.

we have had good luck with 33 and 35mm pwk, but i know that a lot of guys are using 38 and 39mm pwk. i dont think you can really go wrong with any of them.

NO bitch up and leaves a guy without something else waitin on the side. there is always another guy involved. if she didnt have any offers on the table, and no one there to talk to, no way in hell would she just up and bounce out. tell her to keep the fuckin bike cuz just like bitches, they are everywhere and usually dont cost much. that brings up a good point how bitches are like banshees. sometimes they can be a pain in the ass, but damn near always they are a drain on the pocketbook...anyway, fuck that chicks friend and rail her real hard. itll make you feel better. :beer:

you really shouldnt need NOS to whoop on some 4 strokes at the 300' drags...you should stomp them on all motor..

ppl are ignorant thats all there is to it..

where you get your parts from? they are raping you!! 39mm pwk for a 10mm cub run about 350 almost anywhere..trench work thru dave moore cost me 100 bucks. domes should cost no more than 60 bucks anywehre. billet baskets are 150 and straight cuts run about 300. i have heard from almost everyone i talk to that the 14mm cubs are not performing anywhere near the 14mm cheetahs because of the intake size mainly. the cutoff for the best cub performance has been the 10mm. anymore stroke than that and everyone i have talked to or read about recommends the PV cheetahs. there is no point in building a 7mm cub when you can build a 10mm for the same price, which rules that out. by far the best bang for the buck is the 4mm setup...

durablue is junk...i run lsr with no issues..

so what are u changing? just the head and reeds? id say maybe one main size at most..try the 310 and see how it runs...

im confused...a 20 main?? you will most def need to be jetting down to compensate for the higher altitude..here at 1000 feet above sea level in 33, 35 and 39mm pwk our jetting runs right at 45 pilot and 160 mains, give or take a main size either way depending on temperature...