locogato11283

man to be honest, 165 isnt too bad. my cub motors are at about 170 or so. for a high revving motor you dont want super high compression because it kills some top end. high compression will give you extra grunt down low though to pull a higher gear so it can be a tradeoff. jeff will need to know your altitude to determine what dome for you to run. sounds like youre already covered in the fuel department so just call or pm jeff and see what domes he thinks you need.

ive had t5's. the chrome is good and i never had any blueing..

nice ride.. if youre tryin to sell it ill move it to the for sale forum..or you just tryin to show off your ride??

just call Jeff at FAST. 1-785-364-5325.... or you can PM him on here at FASTOYS

i wouldnt worry about it too much. prolly just need to get some of that gas ran through the motor and itll be fine. what mix of oil are you using? TORS is a stupid throttle override system. it doesnt really have anything to do with anything. damn thing doesnt even really work.

thats one of the ugliest things ive ever seen..

haha funny thing is that i really did that when it came down to the last couple wires.. :biggrin:

so youve gotta be rich since you didnt blow anything up on a WOT run that long. id drop the main down some. pilot seems ok. you might also wanna switch up your gas mix some. try running klotz at 40 or 50:1. 32:1 is a lot of oil to burn..

look man. dont make yourself look any dumber than you already do. i agree with the above. this has been covered many times. a quick search would have revealed over a hundred "cheeta cub" threads. the info you were looking for would be there. if someone didnt tell you to do a search then youd keep on not using that feature of the website... so, heres the deal. use the search. IF you dont find what youre looking for PM me and ill answer anything you want to know about them...

if its your clutch, theres a reason its slipping. is it not properly adjusted? i wouldnt think at 80hp with all new parts it should be slipping, but i could be wrong.

damn that sucks man. glad youre ok.. 31 years old?! are you referring to yourself or your bike. cuz if you have a 1976 model banshee it might be worth some money! :biggrin:

id say youre gonna need 158 to 162 main jet and 42 to 48 pilot.. i think youll prolly settle with 45 pilot and 160 main. thats pretty typical for those carbs.. as for your compression were you using a good tester? with 19cc domes i would think youd have a little bit more than that. im thinking up near 170 pounds.. might wanna talk to your builder about that.

just for future info.. i have found that the jets in the 33, 35 and 39 mm pwk will generally be the same. if you had 160 main and 45 pilot in your 35's its a pretty safe bet thats what youre gonna need in the 39's.. oh yea, i agree with wes on the 45 pilot..

i hate to tell you but if the motor is older and the clutch parts (inner and outer hubs, and pressure plate) are worn out and grooved, it will toast a new clutch pretty quickly. sounds to me like you know what the problem is (slipping clutch). i bet you need to replace all clutch parts and the clutch itself. 80hp is plenty to toast a normal clutch, especially if other parts are bad.. i say pull the clutch apart and check the parts themselves. see if they are grooved and worn out. if so call FAST and get the parts and one of his clutches and youll never have another problem.

looks pretty good! better get to work now cuttin and welding.. :thumbsup:

id say 33mm pwk.. if you ever decide to do a 4mm motor youll have carbs big enough for it.

i hold the flywheel with my hand and inpact it on. ive never had one come off and ive never torqued one.

i think youre very confused.

dude, call around..EVERYONE is not running the 5mm cranks. EVERYONE is running the 4mm. im not so sure you know what youre talking about. the 4mm is proven the most reliable and cost effective setup. parts are cheap and readily available. if you were gonna go with a 7mm, then you might as well go with a 10mm. they are the same money. i just dont see how youre gonna sit here and argue with all of us about the difference between the 4mm and 5mm. ask around here on this site and see how many 5mm cubs there are. and then ask how many 4mm cubs there are..youll get your answer..and also, why did you even post this up if you werent gonna take anyones advice??

i think id just buy new cases..

4mm vs 5mm doesnt mean shit really. rider ability, tires, gearing, swingarm..just general setup will play a huge part in how a bike runs and gets out of the hole.. ive seen 350 motors flat out spank 4mm motors, so dont rely on what you saw too much. most people are going to tell you that the 4mm is the common way to go. its reliable, easy to get parts for and its very cost effective. i think you need to talk to some other builders. i dont know why any builder would be recommending a 5mm motor over a 4mm motor..

nope, never heard of it.. i think you should stick with the reliable 4mm crank and setup..

i had something similar to that about 4 years ago. got sick, threw up a bunch, diarrhea, stomach cramping. i ended up needing my gall bladder out..

youre my boy BLUE!!!! youre my boy!! happy birthday john! :beer:

id stay away from spacer plates. do it right and have your cylinders ported correctly and get the proper domes and and aftermarket head to accept the stroke. not saying it cant be done with the plate, but it would be better to do it the other way.