locogato11283

i think you can get proven wiseco pistons from any of the sponsors for that or less.

bam.. just like that! andy comes through to save the day!

at this point in time, its a no brainer. id run the ones from the originator of the pipes.

they dont take a rocket scientist to install!

great pipes man. contact "customone" here on HQ for the new and improved rockets. you will not regret it.

hahaha, that shits funny.

i start with 230 mains and 25 pilot. needle with the clip in the middle. air screw .5 to 2 turns out depending on where the throttle response seems best.

i had a hydraulic clutch years ago and did not like it. you dont have the adjustability you have staying with a cable set up.

welcome to HQ MSR makes an easy pull clutch lever that you can literally pull in with 2 fingers. that sounds like your best bet. as far as a brake lever, the brake pull action will be the same on all of them..

3rd gear launches are not particularly a good idea due to third gear not being as strong as second gear. the chances of you breaking 3rd are a lot higher than you breaking 2nd.

i have a set of the ac blackline pro pegs on my yfz450. they are a nice peg and the first ones ive ever had that bolted right up without any tweaking. my PC has held up well but i dont ride on any gravel roads or anything. just dirt.

youre such a tard.. 1. rub the whole sticker down. 2. peel the backing off the sticker. 3. place sticker where you want it. 4. peel off front paper. 5. show all your friends.

about 25".

haha, what a dick..

That's pretty sweet Andy. Has the Dirtwheels advertising been beneficial or is this the first time doing it? Can you also shoot me some info for Dirtwheels?

welcome to the HQ is your coolant level still where it should be? what does the exhaust smell like? i would try to rule out coolant first and then move on to other issues it could be.

as of lately, i am under the impression that no crank is superior to another. i feel as if you get one that is trued and welded, youre set.. if even only for a while. sure, you can do the tz bearing, but as far as actual crank reliability, there is none. they will all eventually fail. i have a buddy that ran his hotrods 4mm crank for 3 years. never had an issue. during his last rebuild he opted for a brand new crank. upon tearing the motor down due to a tranny issue, he finds out that the welds are already cracked.. we are talking basically 20-30 mins of actual run time. my 10mm crank failed twice in 4 years causing me to have the cylinders nikasiled both times and new domes and pistons. my bike does not get a ton of run time due to it being a race only bike. so anyway, i say it doesnt matter and until someone can somehow prove to me that one is superior to another, i will say go with whoever is cheapest.

whats up man? who are you? i dont run any rear fenders and it doesnt seem to be an issue..

well since it has no spark, you know its electrical. chances are that your flywheel and stator are on fine. its probably a ground wire. if something that was hooked up before is not now, then thats your best bet.

+4 is fine. just make sure youre running the appropriate octane fuel for your compression and timing.

bansheehq actually bought the rights to the banshee so yamaha had to stop selling them in the us.

i dont know about the tester. what i do know is that you probably better start running some higher octane fuel to avoid blowing it up. right now it sounds like a recipe for disaster.

yea i run klotz at 40:1. its about 15 or 16 ounces to 5 gallons of gas.

i always use parts cleaner, a razor blade, some old rags and some compressed air. clean all the crap off the mating surfaces with the razor blade. use the parts cleaner to clean shit out of the crank and tranny areas. use air to clean it all up after. as for the outside of the cases a wire wheel or brush will take of a lot of shit.