mcaf29

After searching this site using every word mix I could think of I couldn't get a thread on shippping an engine (motor). I know there have been threads on it but they don't show up in the search. I also searched the net with no luck. I want to know the best way to ship ie UPS, USPS, or Fedex. I'd consider a freight co. if its not too much of an inconvenience for me. What's the best method of boxing or crating it up. I got my spare motor last week and it came in a box with styrofoam peanuts. The box was all beat up and wasn't packaged well so i don't wanna go that route. Luckily it came from PA so it didn't really have time to get too damaged. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Here's mine:

I'll just tell you what I did and take it for what it is. I bought a 4 mil LR stroker and dropped it in with the 7mm Vito's plate (only $80). This let me run my regular Vito's power pistons without any modifications. It ran really nice with my 2 into 1 setup. It definately had more lowend than before and it had pretty good topend too. Like everone else I think you should do the porting now if you can. The reason I went with the plate was I didn't want to buy new domes, new pistons, and porting right after dropping almost $400 on the crank. It was definately the right decision, I got 3 months of good riding out of it and now that i have some more money to play with so I'm getting the porting done. I'll hopefully sell the plate on ebay and get some of the money back. Again if you can afford the almost $1000 startup cost go with the porting now but if you are like me you can spend $400 now then when you got another $400 you can port later.

Got mine for $190 at rockymountain, thats the best price I've seen including ebay. I'd just go the\ere then so you know what you get plus the good customer service (at least for me).

Go to Wiseco.com. Then go to powersports bar and select racer's choice. Scroll all the way down and you'll see that Wiseco sells a new piston kit for the H129. Its the 795 series pistons with a 2mm thick base gasket.

Thanks!

Does anyone know where to get or how to make a flywheel puller for a 1990 indy 500. My cousin seized up his crank and we are gonna replace it but a flywheel puller is $45.00! He doesn't want to spend the money on that then $400 for a new crank. Also, does anyone know where the best place to get a rebuilt crank is? Its not like the shee where they are all over the net. Thanks.

I've been to a few third world ports, and they are not pretty. It makes me appreciate what I got here even with its problems. Lets just say at least we have some kind of say in our government. Your gonna get these problems in a democracy cause there really are more of them than there are of us and majority rules. Its not so much the government as it is the people who bitch about the stuff so that these stupid laws are inacted in the first place. This really is why some of us here bitch about helmets all the time. Every couple days we read about someone dying w/out a helmet on. The media gets ahold of it and runs with it, now the general public who don't really know what our sport is about think that riding an ATV is the most dangerous thing you could do. So when vote time comes they remember the deaths and vote against our sport. Its basically the whole rotten apple deal which is why I hate seeing people ride without helmets. The same can be said about gun control, etc. BTW, GO PATS!!!!

The 180 may not be too big cause i'm running a 182 right now. Remember its all about the setup. I run LRD's, you run 2 into one pipe, so you may not wanna just go straight to a 35. You should work your way down from say a 40 at least. If you rev out clean on the top then you are not too rich on the main. Since our setups are different the jetting will also be different. You should do a plug chop on that 180 first before you buy any lower or higher sized jets. Never do this if you think you are lean only since you are rich, and always use new plugs.

You can keep dropping. I'm at sea level in 30 degree weather and I run a 38 pilot, I have to run a 35 pilot in the summer. Trinty told me over the phone that most people run a 40 or so. So keep droppping. When I had 42's, my shee would start 1st kick in the cold but it wouldn't hold an idle for more than 2 minutes cause it would load up. Now with the 38 I need to choke it and it takes 2 or 3 kicks sometimes but it idles nice and off idle response is redonkulous. So set your pilots for good idle and off idle response, do a plug chop for the mains then set your needle according to how your shee runs overall. I'm running my needle in the middle position right now and it could be leaned up one position(clip position) but it runs good for me right now. If I do alot of woods slow speed crawling it'll load up a little but it cleans right up in a few seconds. My plugs are black after a day of riding but not to the point that they are fouled. With the temps going from 1 degree to 48 degrees in one week I'm erring on the side of rich jetting. Let me know if this helps.

Same problem Like fixitrod I've gone through stock crank, wiseco crank, and a stroker plus 3 topends. Its just this tapping sound that I cannot locate for the life of me. I also had a new clutch and basket. Mine is a 2000 so maybe its just the year. I can only hear it at idle and my she rips but I was always concerned that it was piston knock. I thought about testing the water pump idea. First I'd say this is probably not a good idea which is why i didn't do it. I was going to remove the side case and clutch basket then get something to turn the crank like an external starter you see in the drags. I thought about starting it and if there was no sound then it was somewhere in the clutch case such as the water pump or idler gear. The only problem with this is you are without cooling, and even for say 20 seconds to listen for the sound it could damge the engine. If you could externally cool the motor by connecting another cooling source to the head this would be a doable expirement. It would then calm my worries that my pistons are about to shatter and destroy my motor.

Mine is of the boring sort also. My last name is McCaffrey so I've been "Mcaf" all my life. When I went to set up my hotmail account years back I put in for mcaf and it said that was already taken then gave me the choice of Mcaf29 so I took it. From there I pretty much used it everywhere so I never forget my screenname wherever I go. When I signed up here i thought it was for a quick question and thats it. Had I known this site was like heroine I would have picked a better name.

That just made rejetting the needle so much easier!!! It has always been a tie between the chain adjust and the carb spring for the "Holy stupid F'n engineer award".

I was just gonna post the same kinda question. I'm have the chance to grab a 95 Banshee for $1100, I'm actually looking at it tonight. The only problem it has is I'm told the clutch is bad and the cylinders need to be bored from 20 to 40 over. I'm buying this for the sole purpose of parting it out, so will I most likely make my money back on a 95. I didn't have too much trouble on my 2000 parts but I'm kinda worrying about the age. There is also a 2003 stock banshee for $3200 in the want ad here. Would I make that back? I just cannot see getting $3200 in parts from stock parts on ebay unless the fact that its 2003 will greatly increase the bidding price. Thanks for any help on this.

Go to Consumer Auto Parts and get heli coils, I had to replace the threads on both pegs. You can get the kit for like $40 and it comes with the installation tool and 10 coils. Its definately worth the money to have the kit around the shop. Its really easy to use and it keeps the stock appearance. You just drill out the thread in the frame with whatever size bit the kit tells you (i'll go into my garage tomorrow and check). You then the use the tap that comes with the kit and tap the hole you drilled. Then you take the tool and insert the heli coil then back out the tool. Now you can just screw in the old bolt (if it not damaged) and you now keep the stock bolt size. It has held up really well so far and it torques down nicely.

I'm finding out right now that I'm more important than my shee. A new lever for my magura and my stock stem back on and my shee is good to go. I had a belated injury show up yesterday. When I crashed the fracture in my elbow hurt the most but what I didn't realize is I jammed my knee too. No big deal then but after a simple 3 mile run yesterday my knee is locking up and really sore. I'm hoping and expecting it to heal but its an eye opener. I'd rather look like the biggest tool with elbow pads, kee pads, kidney belt, chest protector, helmet, riding pants and shirt than mess get F'd up really bad. As you prior military and current military know once you mess up your knees your done. So next time I crash (cause if you ride hard enough there will be) I will be the only thing I worry about. My shee really can be replaced much easier if I still have a job after my crash.

Its funny cause after I posted this I saw the other thread about another bounced check, I would have added on had I seen it earlier. The problem is I don't know his screenname cause when I cleared out my PM's I ended up deleting him(again the case of the stoopids) Maybe I'll get ahold of Lee and this guys screen name if he lets me. I'm not ready to bash this guy yet I'll give him a chance to explain himself.

It seems lately I've been doing stupid stuff and I'm gonna blame it on school. Well, I made the huge mistake of accepting a personal check AND shipping the item before it cleared. Sho nuff it bounced. I just thought cause it was member of this board (not really a regular though, actually forgot his screen name) I would just trust him. The thing is I should know better but $40 and a bank charge later I'm a little smarter. Just thought I'd share. BTW, I'd still do the same for the "regulars" but I just gotta be more careful.

I have a ricky stator timing plate and I can change my timing without removing my flywheel. I use a closed ended wrench (10mm I think) that has a bit of an outward taper (most do) to loosen the bolts. Just loosen all three and turn it or I very lightly tap it with a rubber mallet if it refuses to move.

Here's the link Sears

The picture doesn't even do it justice, its bent both forward and to the right and it looks even worse in person. So it looks like I'll just have to run the stocker for now even though I loved the feel of the plus 1. If it can't be bent straight I'm gonna call up roll design then maybe i can bend theirs too

It kinda goes back and forth. When I rolled my shee I got thrown so it was me I was worried about, cause I initially thought my shee stopped dead, then I realized it was rolling so I was like oh shit my shee, then I was like oh shit my shee is gonna roll on me so it was back to me. Then I came to stop and heard my shee screaming (upside down with throttle pinned can't be good) so I was yelling at my budding who was runnig towards me to kill the motor so he ran to my shee to shut her down. Again it was back to me cause the pain set in, I tore off my gear said a quite a few curse words then I was ready to ride again. I then noticed that I bent my steering stem and all my pain went away and the focus was back on my shee. I know a long answer but that's how it happens.

Thanks, I'm gonna take it to a metal shop around here and see what they can do. You're exactly right its mine now so even if they snap it oh well I tried. I'm in such a better mood today cause I spoke with my CO. He was figgin cool as shit about it. He said "Can you still do pushups?" I said Yes, sir" he said "Good to go". He said he realizes that if the navy wants the type pilot that'll land a plane on a pitching deck in the middle of the night with no moon, that there is gonna have to be compromises. He knows that the type people that want to do this obviously have some dangerous hoobies outside the navy. He just saids please don't get really hurt cause its really easy to lose you "up chit". Thanks for the help guys.

Nope the stem is bent purty good, here's a pic. 04le you're right I love my shee and the setup I got. What got me fired up was I was under the impression this stuff was suppose to be able to take a real beating. While on the phone I said what if I hit a pretty big jump and my a-arm or swingarm breaks and the guy said I would be out of luck. The entire reason I paid the inflated LSR prices is because I was under the impression I was getting the warranty to back it up. I'm not talking about hitting trees but breaking stuff doing normal racing type riding. I got the if you race your gonna break stuff no matter what, but I guess that's the way it is. It all comes down to me though, I should have done more research, I was going off the fact that they have lifetime warranties on the axles and figure that would carry over. Plus I did flip my banshee and you're suppose to keep the rubber side down. It just really woke me up to the fact that one good crash can set me back some major major cash. The other reason that has me worried is my Captain, he knows I ride and I already got hurt once last year which didn't make him happy. My wife is an ER nurse and I snuck in to get an X-ray of my arm cause it just didn't feel right. Well I chipped my bone right below my elbow! It doesn't really hurt too much and doesn't affect bending my arm but I gotta report it so that should be fun. As long as it doesn't affect my PT I'll be good to go but I had a friend who got hurt snowboarding all the time and they banned him from doing it. Yes, the military owns my ass! For those who say don't report it, after naval aviation physicals they know every inch of your body and if I report to my next duty station and get my next physical they'll find and i'd be FUBAR. So right now its just stress over career vs. banshee but I'm trying to have both!

I too had hard starting but I took the advice from here. I run it dry then the next day when I start it I shake, turn on the gas, primer kick 4 or 5 times then it kicks over 2-3 kicks. After its warm it always starts on the first kick.