mcaf29

Actually I have a 1 year old standard stroke wiseco hot rod crankshaft that's welded in there right now. I'm taking that one out to go to a stroker crank. I'm gonna take it to the shop and have it checked out and then I'm selling it.

I'm checking out B370's site right now. Thats's exactly what I meant about internal mods. i'll have to take a look at that. I checked GRR and they sell the pushrod mod for $35.00. I think its definately worth the money for peice of mind and I'm sure clutch pull is smoother. Wow, I've just realized how much money I've dumped into my shee. When I first came here I'd see a list of mods and I'd say I want that that and that. Now I say got that, got that, getting that. I'm getting the shift star mod and lighten the flywheel but I'm gonna wait till after the rebuild. I'm more concerned about the internals such as the tranny mods. After the new year I'll have a little more money for other stuff.

Thanks for the input. I'll go to GRR and take a look. I've been looking on e-bay for a few days now with no luck. I have a clymer and I've used Meat's site to help tear down my motor once already. I'm just looking for some tips to help me get it done perfect this time. Thank again.

I just dropped to a 40 pilot and here is what my plugs look like It should be an obvious oh you are running really rich, but I just don't get it. BTW, I figured out i don't have an airleak, I think the reason it revved up before was because when I change my jet sizes the fuel drains out. When I started its in a sorta lean condition for a few seconds. I didn't get scared today and shut it down when it did this and I let it even out. The weird thing is there was the same throttle response as the 42 pilot, the air screw did nothing for the 42 or the 40, and the idle really doesn't do anything. I know you all may think I'm crazy but I'm leaning towards electical, I got a spark tester so I'm gonna pursue this next. Here is why and you can tell me why I may be right or wrong. I live at sea level, open airbox, proflow w/ K&N, +4 timing, and V-force reeds. I know the reeds will richen it up causing me to drop a size or two, but this is ridiculous. I cannot see how I would need to run a 38 pilot in my 33 mm carb at sea level at 50 degrees, the 35 pilot is the lowest available. So what do I do in the summer? or if I move to a higher elevation? It cannot be right for my shee to be running a 38 or 35 when it came with a 52 pilot. The main it came with was a 180 and I run a 178 and shee revs out clean. So I think that at low RPM's my stator which has been flooded with water a few times (resistance checks out though) does not put out enough power to get a clean burn. I think as the RPM's build the power increases enough to get a clean burn which is why I'm around normal on my mains. When I toss the stroker in I want this thing to run perfect for at elast the next year or so.

O.k. it looks like I'm going to a stroker so I'm gonna open up the bottom end. Is there any thing specific I should do in there besides cleaning? I'm thinking about getting the mod that puts the bearing at the end of the pushrod so the ball and rod don't weld together. Does anyone know where to get this? What's it called? I just wanna go in there now and then not worry about it for a few more years at least.

Yup you nailed it. That's why i posted it cause I thought it was a load of BS in order for Vito's to get get me to buy their stroker. I may have worded my e-mail so I sounded like I was out of the loop but I know LR's are only for reliability and nothing else. I think we are more in the loop than some atv racing co. I called LRD to make sure I can run my reg. bore pipes with a stroker and they said yes. He said can I ask how much you are paying and I told him I'm not locked in yet but around 500-600 depending on where i go. The guy at LRD (sounded like he owns it). He said that's impossible and he can barely get a +4 out of there for just under a grand. He said maybe its a shady company that sells em. I told him Wiseco now sells a H129 which is already pretroked w/ th LR. He has to take regular HR cranks and he strokes em himself so the cost is passed on to the consumer. he didn't even know about the H129. Its kinda weird calling up a racing co. and giving them the info rahter than the reverse. He also said that they are no longer building the aluminum frame. He just got done with a chromoly frame that can be used for for play or drag only and not for MX. He said its a different geometry but I didn't pay attention to the numbers cause once he said no MX I kinda lost interest. Just so you know he said he has run regular LRD's up to 440 with no problems.

It looks like it will probably be coming out next week(If I can get the time and hopefully my stroker will be here). You can e-mail me at [email protected]. Are you both interested in the HR crank? I can have the regular one pressed and trued for $75 and I will sell for $175 or you can buy it for $100.00 and get it done youself. E-mail me what you want to to do.

I see exactly what you mean. Thanks. I'll let you guys know when I get the stroker in there and seal it up right. Now my next question is. (There's more?) Say I run this 33 crab for now with the stroker, will it run o.k. I mean it may not get its full potetial til I get either twin 28' tapered to 30 or a single 35, but will it be safe? Do I run the risk of blowing it up?

So should I jet down til it wont start then jet up one. Can you really run the risk of being too lean on pilot jets? I think I'm gonna drop a stroker in fo Christmas so the air leak will be gone so I shouldn't worry about it revving out. The way I jetted this carb is I kept dropping pilot sizes from 50 all the way to 38 until it would hold an idle. I went to the 35 and that's when it seemed to really speed up so i went back to a 38. This was when it was 90 degrees outside so I went to a 42 pilot because there's been a 40 degree drop in temp. It idles really nice but should I just drop to a 40 to see what happens?

I got a pair. I can get pics if you want so you can see their condition.

I may be buying a +4 mm stroker crank. If I do I would like to know if anybody would be interested in my Wiseco hot rod crank that is trued and welded. Its in my motor right now and I'll have it checked to make sure the bearings are all good and to have its trueness checked (its welded so it should be). I'm looking to get $250 because its 1 year old next month with not that many rides on it and its already welded. I also have the stock crank that I took out for it last year. Its in the images forum w/ the left side separating. My machinist told me it was most likely due to the previous owner trying to pull the flywheel incorrectly. So I rummaged through my old paper work to find his number and gave him a call. I asked what he used to pull the flywheel (my shee came with a timing plate so I knew he had have pulled it at least once). Sure enough he said he used a come-along type device which would explain the separation. The bearings are good and the crank can be easily pressed back together pretty cheaply. I'm looking for $100 plus shipping. Here is another pic of it.

You need to go to get 1.5 inch plugs. I got mine from advanced autoparts.

Banchetta, Trust me nothing is insulting. Sometimes we all forget the simplest of things, thats why you here the term get back to the basics. I'd rather have "insulting" questions instead of none at all. I'm definately gonna check for an air leak by doing a leak down test. Right now I'm at the point where I just want to ride it till it blows up but then I won't be able to sell my crank if I F that up. Thanks for trying to help me get this thing running right. Its times like these when I wish we'd get 4 feet of snow so I couldn't ride it and I wouldn't feel bad tearing it down. I've learned so much over the last year that I think I have a better chance of getting it done right this time.

Boonman thanks, that's exactly what I'll do when I get home from work today. I was thinking more about the oil leaking through the cases where maybe I didn't do a good enough job with the yamabond. I'm gonna start from the top and go downwards. I'll check the domes, then I'll do a compression test, air leak test. If that doesn't cure it after I ride this weekend I'll pull the head, cylinder and pistons to get em checked out to be sure. If they come out o.k I'll go into my lower end (maybe, might just live with it) and get an early +4 longrod stroker Christmas present. I've already ordered up a new seal kit and gasket kit just in case. I realized the most time consuming part is wating on that stuff. I wrote Vito's about their +4 stroker to see if it was a +4 mm stroker. And this is what was replied. What do you all think of what he says. "Our crank has standard length 110mm rods and comes unwelded with the plate to raise the cylinders 2mm, welding is $70.00 extra. We should have them back in stock by Nov 6th next week. You would do better to run the dual stock carbs than a single 33 or 35 they are harder to tune initially but they make more power. We do make a spacer for the 4mm long rod it comes with longer studs the part # is LRSP350 and is $79.95. We do not think there is any benefit to run a long rod configuration it was originally conceived to run Kawasaki watercraft pistons in these motors and the public thought it had something to do with displacement of the engine it only adds to the cost of doing such a thing. if you do not change the exhaust height your compression would remain the same because the port was raised with the plate"

Thank you all for the input. Yeah that's what it looks like after riding it. when it first started it seemed to clear up after awhlie of rding. This is an acrid smell though that makes me think I'm burning tranny oil. It really won't cost me anything to tear it down though since I'll do it myself. I'll take a look at the domes and see if I can see any blowby. Of course this will have to come after this perfect weekend we are suppose to have. I'll be more observant for the smoke after riding awhile and see if its bubbling. I'll do level checks before and after my ride. These are brand new rings but I'll probably get a new set since 20 bucks is better than $300 for a topend. . formerly known as Mighty Abyss, Thanks for the heads up on the lights, I never even thought to take them off cause your right it makes it a PITA to clean them. About the tire I've heard so much conflicting info on it. I got the beadlocks originally so I could run super low tire pressure. I mean I was running 1/2 pound and it hooked up insane. Well, I then read in DW or ATV sport can't remember that the pros run 7.5 up front and 4.5 rear minimum so they don't risk bending a rim. I know i dont' go as big but I hit some pretty nasty stuff and the last thing I want to do is bang up these expensive rims. I think i may drop to 3 pounds though cause I can really feel them spin even with the shorter swingarm. Banchetta, Right now I have a 42 pilot (33 mm single). The reason I say I'm jetted correct is, if i drop lower I have to back the idle screw all the way out and the airscrew all the way in to prevent it from really revving out when I kick it over (even with the choke). It seems to be pretty snappy too, I was doing wheelies in my backyard and shifting 1,2,3. It was actually the first time I had succesfully shifted a wheelie to 3rd where I just ran out of room.

Here's an O.k. picture of both pipes smoking.

A pic of the smoke trail.

Here is my temp gauge reading 140 degrees after 15 minutes of warmup and 20 minutes of riding.

Here is the left pipe. it only looks like its smoking a whole lot more than the right because I got at the exact moment the left cylinder fired.

Here is the right pipe firing. Its not as much as the left but it still quite alot more than usual.

O.K. I had this huge long post with pic links and my work computer crashed. I'll now do separate replies. I really thought I wrote white smoke but I guess i forgot to right that in. The coolant level has not dropped though. Its a kinda acrid smell. There also seems to be some noise coming from the engine (no kidding right). I mean noise that just doesn't sound right. The problem is i cannot pinpoint it. Its either water pump, crank or the pistons making noise, somewhere in that area. Maybe there's a reason I got that crank cheap. It of course could be me looking for noise cause I know there's a problem somewhere and its completely normal. I'll post pics.

Bignasty Yes they are marked, blinker fluid was changed recently so thats not it. Banchetta, Both sides are exactly the same compression. I mean it was exactly on the dot 150 and is now on the dot 145. This led me to believe that if the head is warped enough it allows the domes to lift just enough to let a little compression out and coolant in on downstroke. If its in the center I guess it could affect both. Of course this was just a quick theory and probably couldn't hold up to any scrutiny. Another theory is I cheesed on the yamabond during my last rebuild because I didn't want to over do it and somehow the tranny is leaking to the crank area(of course while puting on my new suspension I drained and replaced the oil without checking to see if it was low). I have no friggin idea what it could be. I run castor 927 at 40:1 and I haven't had this smoking problem before. I stopped by the machine shop today and asked if the bore or rings could be causing this and he said no cause even with good rings you still burn the oil(he says its either a bad oil ratio or I'm burning tranny oil). He did say I could pull the pistons and cylinders so he can check em out. Maybe I'll take a digi pic of the smoke so you can see how thick and the color of it(white).

As soon as you get your crank let me know how your pipes work with it. I know you can get LRD big bore pipes but I'm not sure when you gotta go to them. Of course, LRD hasn't e-mailed me back yet about this.

txblue, I kicked quite a few times after it stopped moving at 45, I also had it WOT. Blacksmith, I don't think my engine has any port work (actually I'm almost positive). i did think exactly that though about why my 17's were so close to my 19's. That's why I rode it like that for a few months. It does pour smoke while I warm it up but I have yet to notice coolant loss. You just sparked a thought though. I have been checking the coolant level in the radiator and its been full but I've had to add some to the reservoir(I knew I was losing because it was spilling out). Maybe I was both spilling coolant and burning at the same time. I'll run it with the bottle empty and check the radiator (when its cold of course). Thanks.

I know this should probably be in the engine forum but its probably gonna lead to a mod. When I bought my shee last year my engine came with 17cc domes and I live at sea level (so did the previous owner and he didn't tell me about them). He obviously didn't use race gas because the domes were heavily pitted. He also didn't weld the crank which began to separate (luckily before I even knew it was separating my buddy hooked me up w/ a welded hotrod crank. Before I even tore it down I checked the compresion and it was 150. I opened it up to find these 17 cc domes and Meats site told me it should be way higher than that. Well I rebuilt and put 19 cc domes figuring I would run race gas. After rebuilt it was still 150 psi (now its 145). I used two different gauges that are known to be reliable(one is brand new). I figured after awhile the pressure would build when the rings seated. Its now been several months and its 145. I did everything right w/ the dino oil and breakin. What could cause this? Could my coolhead be warped(I bought brand new o-rings)? If it is warped do I need to get a new head or can it be fixed by a machine shop? Of course if its gonna cost $150.00 I'd just get a Noss head. I torqued eveything down just like I was suppose to I used the method in my clymer. Help I really really cannot afford to pay someone to fix it right now.