mcaf29

I run LRD's and have no pipe clearance problems.

Thanks 370 but I called Trinity for the part number.

I'm looking for the part number for the K&N that will clamp onto my single 33 PWK. I figure since there's no water around here in the winter I can run it without any problems.

Thanks for all the replies

I'm gonna do the flywheel switch to check to make sure. So you're saying I have to split the cases in order to have the phase checked (if flywheel checks out)? Will Wiseco replace it? Will they pay for labor cause I really don't have time to do this again!!!

WTF? First I gotta say my shee has so much power I couldn't imagine what it would be like with porting in the spring. It sounds pretty cool too, cause I let my buddy ride it (only one I trust) and I couldn't believe how good it sounded. Everyone was commenting on it BUT... and here it comes. If its at an idle, and I blip the throttle or just rev it up the whole shee vibrates. It shakes the frame and rattles. So my obvious concern is a few things. Can a rich jetting cause this vibration? I think I'm really rich on the needle. I replaced the stock flywheel with a Ricky Stator Flywheel and its the one with the stronger magnets. This seems to be the obvious answer but I want to give Ricky the BOTD that its not this brand new flywheel. Its just such a pain in the ass to take my propegs off the get to the flywheel I'm hoping its the jetting. The even bigger pain in the ass would be if it were my brandy new +4 mm welded LR stroker crank. Since I did all the mods together it makes it hard to destinguish which one it is. All the motor mounts are tight too. So if jetting can cause this it should go away. If it doesn't I can switch flywheels, then if that doesn't work where do I go from there. Do I just deal with it cause the motor runs great. Do I have to pull the crank and have it checked (will Wiseco warranty it?). I really do not want to go back into that bottom end right now. I was really careful on evything I did so I don't think its anything I did in there. I guess another possibility is could my new dyna ignition be the cause? I'm running the stock curve for now, so maybe its causing it to not fire at its optimum point therefore I get vibration. I need this fix quick so I can hide it from my friends, they already jump all over me cause all of the down time.

Thanks but that's what I'm running right now.

Gearing up right now for a full day of riding. We got about 2-4 inches on the ground so far, and its the best ripping around powersliding withsnow shooting 30 feet in the air. Its as close as roosting at the dunes that i'll be anytime soon. Then at 2 oclock the second storm will hit and we're gonna get between 12-18 inches of snow. My buddy who owns a Raptor is gonna take his tractor (its a truck but that's what we call it cause its mean, maybe I'll post pics later) and plow some snow jumps in the field behind my other friends house. After if the snow gets too deep, a friend last night ho doesn't ride anything motorized told me his buddy had an extra seld for me to ride whenever. I guess the guy bought it for his wife brand new last year and now she's pregnant so she can't ride. I sure its not gonna be an 800 but free snomobiling is pretty friggin pimp.

I'm looking to trade a set of perfect condition 19cc domes for a pair of perfect condition 21cc domes. I'm runnning a stroker at sea level so I son't wanna go above 170 psi. The 19's would give 181 psi at sea level and 157psi at 1000 ft. So if you are 1000 ft or above you can run these without race gas.

I got a Gibson (basically a Denton knock off) and I love it. Here is pic of it mounted.

Fixitrod got it! The pressure plate screws in to the hub, the hub connects to the tranny, With the clutch pulled, the the basket spins with the crank therefore the friction plates spin freely (not perfectly free) inside the steel plates. The steel plates are attached to the hub (which is attached to the pressure plate). So when your banshee is not moving with the clutch pulled there is no extra wear on the ball because the hub is not moving. The only thing that would cause the ball to weld in this case is if the friction plates cause enough heat transfer to the metal plates then in turn heat tranfer to hub then to the ball. This is not likely cause no one has mentioned the metal plates having burn marks. The most likely time of failure is when the clutch is not fully engaged or disengaged. Say your coasting down a huge hill while pulling the clutch half way. You now have lateral force on the pushrod and ball but the pressure plate and hub are not fully disengaged from the basket. So now you got the ball under pressure and spinning so you get failure from heat buildup. Just my take on it. Please take with grain of salt.

I too got mine from rocky mountain. You can do everything yourself depending on your tools and skill level. I first tried using my dewalt 18v cordless but it just seemed it was gonna take too long so I went to my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. It would definately possible to do it with the drill. You should start by using a center punch to get your bit to run centerline then use a relatively small bit to drill. Work your way up till you drill out the rivet. If you have access to a grinder it takes about 10 minutes. Then just follow the Hinson directions. About the slop, the hinson for $189 comes with the bushings so just use the new ones. It was alot easier than I thought.

Same thing as everyone else said. Just want to add that the directions say to peen the new screws, this is not neccesary. I took mine to K&K and they said they never do it as long as you loctite the crap out of em you'll be fine. I tried to do it myself first but realized quickly I was about to ruin my brand new basket.

Uppity Conn. people make those shitty rules, and they are following suit here in MA. There are no longer any legal riding spots east of Worcester county.

Woohhoooo!!! I got my dyna this morning, plugged it in and and it fired up first kick. I was so determined I stayed home from work to wait for it cause I just needed to know. Now off to work!

Thanks for the heads up. I went to the Dyna website and it says to run both resistor plugs and resistor caps. Are stock caps "loaded"? I got an MSD coil that I have yet to install, do you think they are resistor caps? They have the 8.5 mm wires. My caps are good so they are not the problem, and my dyna should be here tomorrow so I'll know if that was the right call or not.

Give Dynoedge a call. You can get the pancake bearing mod for like $38 i think. You do have to machine the slider which is cheap and can be done at any machine shop and you then drill out the hole in the pressure plate. Dynoedge will tell you how to do it. I have the kit but have yet to install it cause I got a pretty new Hinson pressure plate i'm afraid to drill a hole in just yet. I also don't use my clutch that often.

Here's my helemt story, its not exciting but probably saved me serious injury. We have this set of tracks we have to cross to get to our riding spot. The tracks are too tall too cross so we jump the. We find a nice spot where the gravel slopes up and just hit it. Well on e day I was out to do some plug chops (by myself which is also stupid). So I go across my street to the trail head jump the tracks and off i go. Well, on my way back I guess i just didn't pick a good spot or didin't hit right but my back tire nailed the first rail. This caused my shee to buck me straight up in the air. I remember it was like slow motion I was up in the air upside down looking dwon at me shee. The next thing I know "BANG!!" I landed on my head. If you ever been on the side of train tracks you now those sharp jagged rocks would split your plit skull wide open. I think I may have gone out for a second cause when i got up eveything seemed way too still. I got up and I was dizzy and couldn't think straight, i got on my shee and rode the wrong way then I couldn't find my trail head to my house. Finally i got home and I was a soup sanwich for 2 days. I was kinda nervous cause this was only like 2 days after that girl was killed by the hockey puck, so I knew head injuries were no joke. I'm pretty sure that impact would have caused me either death or brain damage without my helmet. To this day I remeber the "Bang" I just couldn't believe the impact (I was a passenger in an 80 mph rollover when i was younger and that wasn't even close to this, a seat belt story too). About the doctor, that docs gotta be a pinball to say that. I couldn't imagine a real doctor saying she were better of without a helmet. That's like a doc saying to a person who got thrown a hundred feet from a car and was lucky enough to live, good thing you weren't wearing your belt you would have died. Most likely had she been wearing a helmet she would not have a broken jaw. How would the helmet break her neck. The object that hit her jaw would have impacted the helmet with the same force, this force would have been highly dissipated by the helmet. A force hard enough to take her helmet and twist it fast and hard enough to break her neck would also have been strong enough to twist her head and break her neck without the helmet. So I call BS. Sorry I just hate this issue. It seems the only time I see a quad on TV is when the rider falls off without a helmet, either AFV or like Sunday on Viva la Bam, its always used to be funny but its not.

I'm ordering a Dyna tomorrow morning. If its the problem its fixed, if not I got a dyna ignition when I finally do get it fixed. I checked every wire and they are all perfect. I read some posts of people who said their CDI went, they banged on it, then it worked for a bit then it died then it finally died for good. Kinda sounds like my symptoms. I'll keep you up to date. And I do want to get up to Maine when I get this thing fixed. I'm hoping for a mild winter even though they're predicting a bad one so hopefully i'll be riding all winter.

I checked EVERYTHING. I have continuity where its suppose to be and opens where they are suppose to be. All grounds are good. It leads me to the CDI. The only thing I can think of is my friend's dad welded my frame about an inch from the CDI a few months ago. Plus over time I've hit my frame with a 3 pound hammer to help bend the frame back. The heat and shock could have done something to it right? Would the yami shop test it for me (on one of their quads)? How much would they charge? Any help is appreciated.

It actually died from lack of spark first. I replaced the spark plugs cause I thought maybe they were still fouled but there was still no spark. All connections are tight. I'll disconnect the kill switch in the morning, and see what I get. I have had quite some trouble but like I tell my friends it all depends on maintenance. Since I was so new to this when I bought it I didn't know how close to look, and didn't notice the guy never did anything. Its all showing up now I think. For instance he never put the rubber seal on the stator cover when he put the timing plate in, so water poured in there. That's why my stator is all beat up. Luckily I noticed it on the last rebuild and got a new seal but it still was on its way out. I hope its just some loose wire somewhere. It ran so friggin nice too. The motor didn't even shake, it was running so smooth you couldn't tell it was running by looking at it. It makes me wonder though if this is just a continuation of a problem from before. About 10 seconds before it died today it was running just like it did the day before I rebuilt except this time it died completely. Wish I knew someone near me to swap CDI's just to put my mind at ease.

O.K. I just rebuilt my motor while I did it I installed a Ricky Stator 200w setup. Well there was no spark. So I took it out and put the old one in, even though the lighting coils didn't look too good. Well, it kicked over nice the first kick. Did a heat cycle, then another, then the third. The motor made some sick noises and I thought holy crap I just killed my motor. Well I pulled the plugs and they were nice a black (like you want for now). I put new plugs in and again a spark test and nothing. WTF is going on. I did a check on the shutoff switch, and I cut the wires for the key switch and twisted them together (this was done before the problems). All the connections look good. What can it be? How do I check it. I have a digital multimeter but not sure what I should be looking for. Could it be coincidence and be my CDI is shot. Also I have all the wires from the TORS just hanging and unplugged but I've run it like this for a year with no problem. Help!!! I was suppose to go to this guy's house tomorrow who owns an excavating and he has an MX track in his back yard. I NEED to ride!!!

Wow, kick ass reply just what I wanted to know. That's really good advice about running them all the way end to stay away from the pwr band for the breakin. Looks like I'm gonna try to find some honda oil tomorrow! But won't it run slower?

The local yamaha shop doesn't carry any dino oil. Can you tell me some brands that are non-syn. Would Castor be better than 2-R. I only got 2-r cause its the closest to Dino I could get.

Well, On my 2003 R6 I can can hit 100 mph in about 3 seconds and 2 gear grabs so I don't rally think you got a chance.