mcaf29

I noticed when I took my v-force reeds off there were special type of gaskets. Do I need these specific gaskets or will regular intake gaskets from a gasket kit work? I'm such a post whore tonight cause I just want Brown to show up now with all my fun toys. I also don't want to get all my parts and be hled up by something silly like a specialized gasket for my v-force reeds.

O.k. first I'm not an engine builde but I can give you an experience answer. If you go to the high compression domes so you're making above 160psi or so you'll have to go to race gas or race gas mix. All engines are different so use the minimum amount of race gas to prevent detonation. You'll gain a ton of low end power from high compression (think about the super high compression of 4 strokes). My shee had arm-ripping bottom end with 17 cc domes. I went to stock size 22's after rebuild and the difference was night and day. I ended up going to 19cc domes w/ 50/50 race/93 mix for that low end torquey feeling again. Just my $.02

My frame cracked also but my buddy welded it for me, I also lost the 1 gallon can. I too would like to know how much you have to cut the plastics. The clarke website says you do but not how much. Not that I care too much about looks like the duners cause its just gonna get dirty but what color tank would go with the red and white 2000 color scheme. My tank cover is black with red stickers but I'm not sure how a black tank will look. A couple rides on my new stroker and I'll be crying for one.

Yeah, the guy at Dynoedge was really cool. He helped me out alot. I just ordered the bearing and dropped the lifter off at my machinist. It sounds easy enough, I'll find out soon enough.

There are two reasons I take the belly skid off. The fist reason is there are bolts under there for the tension rods that need to be removed (done the Clymer way) and I use a floorjack to support the engine while removing the bolts that hold the engine in. The reason I remove the nerfs is because I have propegs and you need to remove the footpegs to pull the stator cover and clutch cover.

O.K. got ahold of Dynoedge. After all that you needle to machine the lifter to use this mod. I'll have to see how much that'll cost before I try this mod and if I can get it done soon.

I'm so aggrivated that these are the only two shops in the country that sell the kit. Neither shop has gotten back to me either. I wanted to order this kit last week so I could get it in time to put it together this saturday. I have eveything showing up tomorrow. I guess I'll just have to go without it. Unless someone knows of place that I can order it from ASAP.

Thanks again for sticking this out. I'm gonna go over EVERYTHING. I mean anything that doesn't look close to perfect its gone. Thats exactly why I've gone w/ the ricky stator setup and new hinson hub, I'm not taking chances when I've got so much invested already. I'm thinking about taking the gears over to the yamha dealer and have them look at them cause I really don't know what to look for. I mean the gears all look good to me.

Thanks Boonman. I did a leakdown test but it seemed inconclusive. I pumped it up to 7 lbs and it kinda held. It dropped about 1/2 to 1 psi but somtimes it dropped none over the many tries, and from what I read here its acceptable. The leak down tester in the images forum is the one I used. I'm sorry to put you guys through this but I think I have an idea what it was (I've said this a thousand times right). The crank seal looked o.k. so I think it may not be that. You guys are gonna kill me for not remembering this the other night. When I took the cylinders off, the left side (lean side) inside cylinder nut came off really easily. Not so much hand tight but I'm talking far less torque to remove it than the others, very close to handtight. At the time I was just tearing it down and kinda blew it off and didn't really analyze it. So tell me if this follows suit. O.K. I do the leak down test cold, and the cylinder gasket holds the vacuum so it looks good to go. Well I rode it for quite some time before it started acting up, the heat cycling (hitting water thus cooling) and the vibration may open it up enough to let air in. I come home wash it let it cool and leakdown test it and it appears fine. I'm gonna have to say its way too much of a coincidence that the loose nut was on the side that was lean. I'm gonna call it 11:45 a.m. Monday November 10th, 2003 beeeeeeeepppppppppppppppp. Unless anyone else revives it. I will however update you all how the rebuild goes and how the stroker works out. I think the flywheel is beat and the clutch basket has play cause the guy who owned it before was running 17 cc domes at sea level so it just stressed the hell out of the stock motor.

labeled bags is a must for the first time. That saved me especially since I had it part for a month or so then.

How the hell you guys do that so fast! It took me about 6 hours (a break or two in there) the other night and I thought that was quick. This included removing everything though. I take off all plastics, remove pipes, remove airbox (single carb) and carb, remove nerfs and pegs, stator side stuff, clutch side stuff, head (that alone takes 10 minutes to turn 1/4 each on 1 through 10 till loose so you don't warp the head), then pull the cylinders, pull the pistons, remove belly skid to get to mounts, remove mounts, put jack under engine unbolt engine and remove. Then you can remove crankcase bolts and crack the case then you can remove the tranny and crankshaft. If you do it this way you use your shee as a holding tool when your trying to remove bolts that don't wanna come loose. This way also makes it pretty light to remove also probably 40 lbs or so. I've never removed it as a whole so I couldn't tell you on the weight. If you just wanna clean the outside then you probably don't wanna do all this work.

I already have new skidplate. thanks though. Here is the skid plate.

I used to carry a one gallon can and a 2 gallon can on my six pack rack but I no longer use the six pack rack since it bent my frame. And that's exactly why I'm looking into the tank now. Usually we'll ride for a couple hours and hit a gas station so I just carry oil but I know with the stroker and port I'll need the 5 gallon tank. I think I'm looking to go with the 28's tapered to 30 when all is said and done, but for now i'm looking to run a single 35. Take it for what its worth Trinity says they have run the single 35 up to 421 cc's, they even said my 33 would be fine with just a stroker. Hmmm, not sure how much faith I have in that.

Thanks. Yeah the play on the flywheel isn't the normal play, its like its about to let go kind of play. I ordered the Ricky Stator flywheel and stator set. About the airleak, that's the most likely cause lucky I didn't cook my motor. Well, its one giant airleak now so I'm starting from scratch when my stroker gets here. Its funny now attached you can feel to inanimate objects. My hot rod crank looks so good that I feel bad pulling it out, I'm definately sticking w/ Castor 927.

Well, Here's an update. I went riding today and all hell seemed to break loose. My engine was making a clackety clack clack sound, shee started to sputter big time and I couldn't ride past quarter throttle wihout feeling like my motor was gonna blow. The weird thing is the left plug was brown and the right one was black. Now here was the problem, Was I jetted too rich so the right was black, and I had an air leak on the rleft which made it brown(so if I was actually jetted right I'd be way lean) Or was I jetted perfect on the left and had an oil leak on the right side(lost a little bit of oil)? Its really a rhetorical question now cause I split the cases tonight. I split the cases in 6 hours!!! That's big for me since it took a couple weeks when I did it before. I came across several problems that may be the cause for the noise but luckily it wasn't what I thought it was. I thought maybe my crank bearing went therefore the vibration broke the oil seal and oil was getting in the crankcase. I'm glad to say that the crank looked like I bought it today. I spun the bearings and they sound perfect so its not that. I'm waiting on my stroker crank anyways so i was going to tear apart the motor. I was pissed cause I wanna sell the crank and thought that I couldn't if the bearings were shot. The first thing I found was my stator looked smoked really bad, and it smelled like an electrical fire when I opened up the stator case. I really think this is coincedence cause it still ran with it looking beat. I also noticed my flywheel rivets were geting really loose, and there is a ton of play that could be causing the noise. Another thing is there is a little play between my clutch basket and the gear so that could be helping to make some noise. I'm gonna be so pissed if I put this thing back together w/ the stroker crank and have that same noise(I'm gonna get the Ricky stator setup and the Hinson basket to rule tose out). Could the noise be from my tranny? The gears look really good, and I don't know how to check them anyways. I guess I could bring them to the stealership and have them look at em. One last thing. How do you apply yamabond correctly? It took me 3 times longer to physically separate the cases this time because I got some on the threads. The crank was stuck to top case by the yamabond, it took forever (Although using anti-seize on eveyrthing else last time made the rest of the teardown silky smoooth). Do you Yamabond around the outside of the bearings? Or do you just yamabond the case mating surfaces? Thanks for the help.

Nyuk, Thanks didn't realize that he was the only one running the place. I sent him an e-mail.

Where can I get the pushrod needle bearing kit like the one sold by GRR. I've looked on ebay for the past week with no luck. GRR's phone line is always busy and when I got through and left a message I haven't gotten a call back. They really should have online ordering if they are that busy. So does anyone know any other shop that sells them.

I have a DG but i dont have the mounting hardware. $30 plus shipping. My zip 01501 for shipping price. You could probably buy them at a hardware store or get em from DG.

I had the same problem with my AC front bumper. I just took a BFH to the side that didn't fit on the bumper It only took a few hits to line it up.

Can you grab some pics. My shee guzzles gas on the trails so I might need one soon.

You should run 23 up front, 22 in the rear. You need to have a least an inch more in the front. I have these size Razr's cause i ride some tough terrain. We also have to cross train tracks and it prevent us from getting hung up. I love it for the trails!!!!

I really want to stay with the single. So you think a 38 single would do the trick? What happens if i underrun it. Say I stay with a 33 or 35 would it destroy the engine? Or would it just not live up to its potential. I plan to get some porting in the spring and will probably go 28's taper bored to 30. I just want it running just as good if not a little better than it is now, even if I don't get the full potential right now.

I just got myself a stroker crank so I'm gonna go to a 35 mm carb on my Trinity 2 into 1 system. I'm looking for someone who runs a 35 on a stock motor and maybe doesn't like it. This 33 has insane bottom end, a 35 might bog out a non-bored, stroked or ported motor. This carb is about 4 month old and in perfect shape. I'm looking for a relatively new 35 PWK about maybe 1 year or less old. They are the same price new so its an even trade if anyoned is interested.

Thanks

How do I remove something I'm selling on ebay if someone local wants to buy it. I always see things like "I have the right to end the auction if I sell locally". Well, how do I do that?