boonman

The bike draws nothing off of the lighting coil, so a 200W stator, should put out 200W. It would run two 100watt lights with ease. No need to worry. I have no experience with the electrex stator, but by the sounds of it, it isn't anything I would want to run. I put on two Hella lights on my bike, with a RickyStator 200W unit, and I love it. My bike lights up the night just fantastic. If your bike has no juice to any light, I would point to a falulty lighting coil. THis leaves you two options. Have yours re-wound, or just buy a new unit. I would recommend Ricky Stator.

It allows smoother shifting, and removes the "notchy" feeling ofthe gearbox. It also allows you to find neutral easier, if you do the backcut. But the backcut requires a milling machine, and a carbide endmill.

3.08/gal for regular this morning. Now, 3.79/gal. Regular unleaded. Diesel, I am not sure of now. I only pass gas stations, not fuel stations on the way to work. I have to go out of my way to get fuel myself. I filled up on Wednesday, it was $232.72 to fill the tank(s) on the truck. $2.90/gal. I hate filling my truck. I don't even want to see what the wekeend brings. Good thing I won't have to fill up untill at least the end of next week, perhaps the week after..... Maybe there will be some relief at that point, but I doubt it. Fuel prices for my mower(s) is insane. It is costing me more money now to mow. Good thing I don't have any employees. If I hike prices now, I risk losing customers. If I don't I will probably lose them anyways. I guess it isn't that much more per lawn. Or per job..... It is getting hot these days....

I didn't see guages in that list. That was the first thing I did to my truck. Now, the straight exhaust, I assume you just deleted the muffler. You NEED a larger downpipe. So, get yourself a 4" turbo back exhaust. It is about $400. You also need a different intake. Or a Tymar type setup. (think cold air intake like you see in a rice burner....) pics on www.thedieselstop.com Anyways, you have to move ALOT of air in and out of the engine, and then add fuel. Now, on your truck, you will ten have problems with turbo surge. There are 2 alleged cures for this. One is an ATS housing. www.atsturbo.com That is kind of pricey, but can be had for about $405 from the right place. (www.dieselsite.com) It is ported, and eliminates most of the surge. The surge will eat the bearings in the turbo. It ate mine, and many others. I got it replaced under warranty, and right then and there, I put the housing on, along with a Wicked Wheel. Which is the second thing. It is about $70, from the same site as as you would get the housing from. This is a different intake wheel than the stocker. It has stepped fins, and is tuned better for the motor than the stocker. Both of these combined eliminated all of my surge. you will likely not notice any surge untill you tow.... Now, you can modify the MAP sensor. So that you can run over 22#'s of boost without setting the Service Engine light. THis is a must. You could shim the fuel pressure regulator to get you up to about 75 PSI, up from the stock at about 50. You could also get a Banks power Elbow which eliminates the factory Exhaust backpressure valve, and flows alot more exhaust out of the truck easier. You also could eliminate the Air Intake Heater plug. (AIH) This requires a Cummins engine drain plug, (M22-1.5 thread) which is available from any auto parts store, and is usually on the "help" rack. THe air intake heater blocks about 40% of the intake tract on the Y intake tract. It must be removed. You could also get a new torque convertor, to put more of the power to the ground. As you will eventually tear up the stocker if you aren't careful. But now you're getting into some bucks. All of the info on these mods can be found at the diesel stop. This is just the toip of the iceberg....

I run 37" rubber on stock gearing. I have 3.73's and a Powerstroke though. But I tow frequently, heavy loads, all that stuff, and it's a Ford. I have no problems. Anyways, you're going to have alot of problems with the Tahoe down the road on 42's. Hubs, ball joints, tie rod ends. All that stuff. It isn't large enough to handle the shear loads on it. Every few months you'll be replacing front end components. Not to mention the gearing. 4:56's will bring you back to around stock RPM ranges provided you start out with around a 3:55 or so, stock. You are still turning a much larger load however. 42's are alot of weight. Also, bear in mind that your rear end will suffer as well. Beware of the C-clip coming off and spitting an axle, which will flat out ruin your day, if not someone else's as well. Be very careful with it. 1/2 ton equipment and big lifts aren't meant to be....

I have a Ricky in my bike. It has worked flawlessly. Have you checked to make sure the TORS is unplugged under the tank, adjacent from the ignition coil? If that is plugged in, than the bike may or may not start, but certainly won't run with any throttle. Did you hear and see it run at the dealer when they allegedly swapped in a factory stator? Dealers are shady sometimes when you bring them a bike with some aftermarket goodies on it. If Ricky says it is good, I would think it's good. I run my pickup gap at .020". Make sure the TORS is completely disconnected. you can't just unplug the parking brake. The brain module under the fuel tank has to be disconnected as well.

You have to check the compression. And perhaps the squish as well. Yo umay need to run race fuel if you're around 160 PSI, that's a pretty good bet there are some low CC domes in there. But the squish would be a better place to look. As far as Fuel:Oil ratio, whatever you feel comfy with. Also, it depends on the oil. I am not too familiar with Royal purple. I have heard of it, alot more with vehicles though. I mix my fuel at 40:1 with Klotz Super Techniplate. (synthetic). 40:1 has always been a good ratio in most any 2 stroke I have....

Hindsight is always 20-20.....

On the head, measure from the gasket area to the dome, and a stock head should be about .050".

I run Cometic gaskets, and a stock head gasket. The Cometic head gaskets cannot hold anything over stock compresion. The base gaskets go one way.

On a twin cylinder engine such as the banshee, losing torque isn't going to happen. You aren't going to lose anything. What you will gain is an insanely crisp throttle response. The fallacies and heresay that you are hearing is just that. These individuals cannot be speaking from experience. I haven't had anyone complain about a flywheel being lightened yet. The only co,plaint I hear is that their face hurts because they have a huge smile whenever they ride. If you were riding a single cylinder bike and doing trials, I wouldn't suggest it. But, on a banshee, it's game on.

Anything ever come of this?

You won't see the need for it untill you've tried it. Anyways, alot of times, the flywheel hub galls itself onto the crankshaft end. Many flywheels that I receive have this problem. I always clean them up with a die grinder. #1so they don't frig up my tooling, and #2, so they will go back on the persons bike with no worries for the future.... Metal galling is sometimes tough to remove. Often tougher than rusted together stuff. All the methods mentioned here are good ones. Remember, if you tapon it, do NOT hit the flywheel, do NOT use jaw style puller, and don't hit it too hard....

We will be there Friday morning. My truck will be hauling the 24' White enclosed trailer, and the Excursion will not be going. It suffered some driveshaft issues last night. Another F-350 Crew cab, White with purple and all sorts of color graphice will be following, it rides on 38" swampers. You should be able to find us.... We are leaving this afternoon. But we're 8 hours away....

We are staying at Val-Du, site 77 and some other site to park shit on.... We will have a White Excursion on 44" boggers, (you won't miss it...) and my truck is an '03 F-250 crew cab, with a lightbar, 37's, grey and black. My wife will likely be at the beach, and we'll be out riding and what not, but we'll be there... I also have a BHQ decal on the back window, but it's kind of hard to see through the backrack and toolbox.....

ANyone going? we'll be there...

Yep. We're heading out Thus. and should be there Friday all day, and Saturday all day. We'll have my shee, 2 Honda 450's, a few bikes, a MONSTER White Excursion, My F-250, and some other wheelers. My truck has a yellow lightbar on it, it's grey and black, 37" tires. My shee is yellow and white.

Perhaps on a dyno, for a fraction of a millisecond, if the planets align properly, you may lose a small fractional amount of torque. And no, I have never heard of this actually happening. Ask the local "shop" to explain how this happens. I would enjoy reading their response.....

Is it leaking anti freeze, or burning it?

You can get 35-12.5 tires to fit on that truck with the stock wheels. Any wider wheels, or different backspacing will give you clearance issues. I just put another 3" in my truck and went with 37-12.5 Wrangler M/T tires on 10" wide wheels. I like it.

I did the same thing, (programmed it in my phone), I also grabbed one of their business cards..... If I lived in MI, I would defintwly be interested in buying it. I love Val-Du. BEST campground in the area. That is, if you like to party....

Thanks!!

Sounds fine. Using shirink wrap and soldering them is the best way to permanantly make the connection. Now, did you do any work toe the bike recently, and upon re-assembly it didn't have spark? This happens quite frequently...

I have lightened them. With complete success. EXCEPT, when one got sent to me, and I didn't realize it was a Ricky flywheel. It was never mentioned. That flywheel seperated. And was essentially, junk. Not as much weight can be taken off as compared to a stocker, but the flywheel is already lighter from the get go, and they end up about the same in the end....

As Ron mentioned. The center hub is imperative. As is using the correct puller. Otherwise, you will twist the flywheel if you use a jaw style puller.