boonman

What will happen in the top end from lean jetting is a catastrophic failure of the piston. the combustion temps. in side the cylinder are ridiculously high. the lean jetting makes this happen. There isn't enough fuel. The temps get hot enough that after combustion takes place, and as the exhaust is exiting the chamber on the down stroke, it melts the crown of the piston near the exhaust port. 90% of the time, this type of failure can be attributed to lean jetting. As the piston melts, it "rolls over" the edge, and gets smeared onto the cylinder. Often times, the rings start scoring the cylinder wall and you get pissed. it really puts a damper on the days riding when this happens. Because now you have to have it bored, and a top end set put in. That is provided that nothing got into the lower end, in which case you would need to clean all that out.

Ummmm, no it's not. You need the right pipe for the application. For example, I wouldn't go MX'ing with CPI out of frame drag pipes. I wouldn't even do it with in frame pipes. Point is, you need a pipe that suits what type of riding you do? Which is......?

Update. I spoke with the dude over the phone. He called me after I sent him an e-mail stating how dissatisfied I was. he informed me that the transpak is the same kit as the shift improver kit, only the transpak comes with a filter, and the kit does not. So, dude gets the improver kit, buys a filter for $4 and sells them. I still don't know how he gets $50 when they can be had for $31. Oh well. I am still a litle unsure about it, but I won 2 other things for the same transmisison, and he is gonne eat the shipping cost on them. Oh yea, I didn't receive the filter either in the box. So he is gonna send on out wiith the other two items.

HOLY SHIT!!!!!!!!!! Your plugs are NOT perfect. You have a time bomb, that may have already went off. you NEED to change your jetting. Pipes make a considerable difference in how much fuel and air your bike is sucking in. Go to this page to see where a starting point for your jetting will be. Read this page IN IT'S ENTIRETY. PLEASE!!!!! Now, there can be one of three things wrong, or a combination of them. Your TORS is giving you the difficulty, in which case the ignition is limiting the RPM's of the motor because it is ggetting a signal from one of the sensors (located in the thumb throttle housing, on top of the carbs, and in the clutch lever/parking brake assembly) that it doesn't like. Either the slides are sticking, the parking brake is on, or one of the switches/sensors is faulty. You can check this by unplugging the wires (3 of them in one connector) from the TORS brain unit which is located adjacent to the coil, underneath the fuel tank, which would be on the left hand side of the bike. (when you are sitting on it). It could be dirt clogging the main jet, although highly unlikely that it would bog the entire motor instantaneously. For this to happen, both carbs would have to clog at the same time. I have NEVER seen this happen. The top end could be smoked. Because of your retardedly lean jetting, (stock) when combined with the pipes is going to, or already has destroyed your top end. (melted a piston or both) You need to see WTF is going on here. Try the TORS first. TORS=Throttle OverRide System. Then, change your jetting to at least a 280 main. Unless your at 20,000' above sea level, in which case your jetting may be leaner than a 280. Next, get rid of the POS stock air cleaner setup. It is junk. Put in a pro flow plate, a toomey 2:1 kit, or clamp on pod filters. Any of them is 100% better than the stock setup... Now, find out which of the three it was, and let us know please. Please don't run this thing for any longer with the jetting you have. if you haven't killed your top end already, thank your lucky toilet paper and change the jetting to what it should be... Stock jetting is NEVER good for ANY bike with aftermarket pipes..... Trust me on this one...

I thread the chain through, pull it taught, and then look at it to see how much needs to be removed. If done right, it should take you less than 5 minutes....

I smoked a cannondale at the drags. Trail stock class. My motor is stock, with fatty pipes....

How in the hell can anyone be that large and still be mobile....

Not too bad, but the trailer(s) that I am speaking of are completely flat deck. None of them cheesy flimsy 18 guage fender models. Them ain't bad looking though. And also note the pine deck. The one I can get locally has all diamond plate bed. And a 2 5/16" ball as well.... I may look into one for a longer utility trailer. EDIT: Just did some looking around on these guys. That is a base price for that trailer. For electric brakes, it is 110 bones per axle, plus another $20 for the wiring plug adapter to be added, (What a joke, them things cost about $3.00), plus $50 for ramps, $325 for 4 new 6 ply tires and rims, (as the trailers come with four "complimentary" used tires which "still have some tread left, but may not be very good"), and $55 for the beavertail which are all included with the local trailer. So, after I add up all this, I get $560 extra on top of the "base" price. SO, that coupled with the $725 price tag for the base price, I come up with $1285. And it still has a pine deck. Oh yea, $30 for the spare tire mount. So, $1315 for this trailer, and whatever it would cost me to drive my ass to Kentucky, and then come back and register the bitch. Not worth it IMHO. And anything hauling that much weight needs trailer brakes. I don't care WTF anyone says. I have towed alot of shit. And when you need to stop, and you don't have trailer brakes, it can be difficult and cause accidents.

I bought this bike off of Ebay this spring. Rode it all summer. Never let me down. Not too bad for the $$ I spent on it. Suspension works excellent, and the brakes were good. (disc) I know it is made in China, and is soome knockoff of something else, but They are retardedly cheap. I could trash one a year, throw it in the trash at the end of the season, and do it every year for 4 years to equal what something like that would cost in a name brand model. So, I went for it. I am a happy MTB'er.

What make is this car hauler? I would like to see this. And where do i have to waste my time to go get it?

Screw it. I'm gonna go out, and gear up, yank a huge wheelie, and pull her on down the road to 75 MPH. Then, at which point, a slight blast of wind will hit the parasail I am wheelying, (called a banshee) and blow me the hell over....

Cooker, that has to be the funniest avatar to date!!!!!! I was lmmfao at that!!!! Anyways, I am in Elma, NY. I work in Akron NY, and I ride everywhere possible. WHich hasn't been anywhere lately....

You have got to be kidding me. If you are worried about fouling plugs, than you are jetted incorrectly. This is precisely the reason why I hate rich pilots. It does no good. I have my idle turned so low that the bike stumbles on itself and sounds like it's gonna stall. it has never stalled. I do not like it to idle at a high RPM. I let my bike idle for 20 minutes. It will idle all damn day if I let it. Or untill it runs out of fuel. And depending on the outside temp, you don't have to worry about overheating. A radiator is a heat exchanger. It takes the warm coolant, and exchanges the heat to the outside air. Simple as that. It doesn't need airflow, unless it's 90 degrees outside. Just because the bike is idling, doesn't automatically mean that the mixture is rich. Unless you have it jetted that way. At idle, with the slides closed, your bike is drawing a minimal amount of air, and it needs a minimal amount of fuel, So, why jet the shit out of it with a rich pilot? No need to. I run 27.5 pilots in my bike, basically stock motor, and like I said, idles any amount of time you want it too...... I once on a dice run let it idle for about a half hour when we were getting my buddies EX out of a hole. Everybody was worried about my bike "loading up". Everyone except me.

This is the determining factor!!!!

I see now!! What I would like to see is a controlled, "balanced" wheelie, while maintaining a consistent 75.......

Each lobe is done seperate. I can say from my own personal experience that radiusing the "tits" as BD has done will do nothing except hamper shifting a little more. Think about it this way: say you are in second gear, your small bearing, (which can be found in meats pic, that holds the shift drum in place, which holds the tranny in gear, which is the sole purpose of the shift star) sits in the "saddle" of the shift star. The contact points are low in the saddle. This can be evidenced by either looking at the star on your bike, or looking at it off the bike and witnessing the wear marks in the aforementioned saddle. now, the higher the "tits" on the star, the more the small bearing has to move to let you shift to the next gear. As long as you have a properly functioning transmission, cutting the "tits' as low as possible, and making a flatter profile on them has proven in my own personal findings to create a better shift, and getting it into the next gear a little quicker. Once again, these are my own personal opinions, take them for what it's worth to you....... But, like BD also mentioned, the neutral mod, HAS to be done in a machine shop. Otherwise, you risk extreme screw up and may have to get a new star because you will never find neuttral again....

Huh?????

Around here, I can get 16' car haulers for around $1700. 18' is $1900. Flat deck, minor beavertail, and diamondplate. My trailer is a 6x10 landscaper, wood deck, 1' high surround, and hauls 3 shees. Once we hauled 3 shees, a Rubicon Honda, full size truck toolbox, and 40 gallons of fuel and a couple coolers on the trailer. We were in a pinch, and had to make the line at Silver Lake......

I am unsure about riding through the gears in a balanced wheelie. However, I do know that riding along next to a stock blaster pinned to grenading point, I stand it up balanced in 5th gear and ride it to 6th and the motor gives out and the front end drops. I do not think that on a banshee I would attempt a run through the gears wheelie. But, I do know that my bike will pull it in 5th without a problem. A hefty tug on the bars is required, but it ain't an issue.... I HIGHLY doubt the 75 MPH balanced wheelie. I know what Nyuk and Reas are sayin. I have seen wheelies such as those mentioned. However, these are power wheelies. balanced wheelies are just that. You don't have to have the power to keep it up there. You would have to maintain a consistent, or nearly consistent speed for it to be considered balanced. Which would mean either pullign the front end up at about 70, and then reaching 75 and holding it there, or pulling it whenever, and reaching 75 and holding it there. On my street bike, I could speed up, slow down, go around mild turns all in a wheelie. One thing that I am unsure if it is even possible would be to downshift in a wheelie while slowing down.

My bike will come up in 4th and 5th in the dirt. -2 arm, and nearly stock motor. I am not shittin' ya. Done it all weekend up at Tug hill. Ridin with my boss. (he has a blaster) Anyways, I am stock gearing, and with the blaster topped out, (which isn't much) I would pull next to him, in 5th gear, snap the clutch, yank the shit out of the bars and hang my big fat ass off the back, and ride a wheelie away. I have no idea how fast i was travelling when I did these 5th gear wheelies, but it wasn't slow.... I have never been able to ride a 1-5 or 6 wheelie on anything except my streetbike. And I was also the only person in the area that could pull a ZX-7R up into a balanced wheelie rollin' in second gear. (7R's have a wicked heavy front end) All bull shit aside, 5th gear wheelie is no problem.....

LMMFAO!!!!! I didn't think that my ridiculous "hidden link" to peta as a joke would have gone this far. LMMFAO!!!!!!!! And I must say, the link to Maddox's xmission site I have been reading for several hours. Funniest shit I have read in awhile. And peta-sucks.com is running a close second in the funny department!!! Oh yea, screw you led!!!!

I raced a funny car. Smoked him. I think it was due to my special yellow and blue Evo powerbands and White Bros. boost bottle......

Not very happy right now. I am building a transmission for my Small block S-10, and I found what appeared to be a great deal on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2445913573 Clearly pictured is a B&M transpak, and the line leads me to believe that while it may not be in the correct packaging, I will still be receiving the alleged transpak. Well, I bought into it, got the package yesterday, and opened it up to find a B&M shift improver kit. This particular kit, item # bmm-70239 and can be found at http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...h∂=bm-70239 for $30.95. I paid $50 + shipping for what I thought was a transpak. Difference being that transpak is much more valuable. it allows manual downshifting at any speed, and better shifts than the improver. It can be found here: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...h∂=bm-70235 for $59.95. I figured I would save a few bucks, however, it looks like I took it in the ass on this one. Kind of pisses me off. Shady people. And to come from a tranny shop nonetheless, I wasn't very woried. Now, I am concerned. And very pissed off. Just needed to vent a little, and bring yet another shady dealing out in the open.... It would be like thinking you are getting a set of 34's for your shee, and getting 30's or something. It will still be an improvement, however, it is not what you expected....

well, as aforementioned, he will need a .500" carbide endmill.

You won't have any problems Meat. However, you could grind them down a little more if you wanted to. The wheel dits down in the "groove" pretty far. you should be able to see the marks.