boonman

What a fuckface.

I don't think you need one. If you do decide to purchase one, 21cc domes would most likely be the way to go. It depends on the elevation you will be operating the bike at. I would shave the stock head to bump the compression up a little.

I would be suspect first of the TORS system. Being that you can't get it to idle, which may be due to a clogged or lean pilot you are trying to give it throttle. The TORS may be cutting the ignition and causing the shit to go down. Now, first, you should try the 27.5 pilots and then disable the TORS to eliminate that. Then, check to make sure that the slides are in their proper carb. With the cutaway facing the air cleaner(s). Next, if that don't work, pull the shifter and footpeg and stator cover and check the flywheel. You may have sheared the key.... The flames lead me to believe that it is a timing issue. However, I have seen flames with carb issues as well. Mostly when combined with the timing thing as well. You need to go over the entire setup. Make SURE the carbs are clean. Use compresed air and cleaner...

Use an impact to get that nut off. Then, send Jim at PassionRE a PM and get some pricing info from him on constructing you a stroker. You will need it ported, so decide on what type of riding you do, and converse with him. By the sound of things you explained, it looks as though the bearing went, and it was sucking tranny oil.... Tear the motor down, and get it back up and running. It's not tough...

Stay in school. Don't get a car. Because I can't think of a job that you could do. So I wouldn't worry about working for a car.... Have you attempted filling out applications for jobs? There are limitations as to what you can do at the age of 15. Even 16. It's possible. Give it a whirl.

Uh oh!!! Kodak is a pretty large company in the area here. That means the unemployment is going to go up again. SOB!!! Dammit. Oh, and I snap 'em off with a Sony DSC-P7. I love it. it does everything I need it to do, EXCEPT take sound with the streaming videos. THe DSC-P71 does this. My father got his about 2 months after I got mine, and he got the P71. I am still trying to figure out a way to swap them without him knowing!!

Well, I go out to the garage. I throw a leg over the Raptor. I turn the key, I hit the button, and nothing happens. Then, my legs get tired, and I fall down from trying to start it. (standing in mid air like I am sitting on a wheeler will do that to you). I like to make like I am a mime or some shit sometimes. See, I don't really own a raptor. I doubt I ever would. Now, a 450 on the other hand, that I would consider...

My damned Raptor NEVER starts.

Your squish right now if the dome was not re-chambered is phucked. if you are not running high octane to combat the detonation, you will surely grenade your brand new top end. Luck will not be in your court. Grab some solder, and check your squich. IMMEDIATELY. Right now, that thing may be a time bomb. Or, it may not be. It depends on who did the work. if you just took it to a machine shop, and told the mto whack the head down, they didn't do the domes. My bike currently runs 175-180# on my guage. I run a mix of race fuel and pump fuel. It diesn't ping, and it will stay that way....

I forgot about Dan Hull. I have seen a couple of his bikes. GravesLG has a Hull bike. They are fast.

Mine will be coming out to you UPS red. I forgot to bring it with me today. But, I did remember Ben's Shift star though. COmin back at ya today Benn.

With porting, In My opinion, there are 3 people you can go with. Jim at PassionRE, Dan (Backcountry, or Patriot Racing), and Andy from Grand River Racing. Those are the only people I would trust with my motor. Jim will most likely be getting my business sometime soon to build my 4mm ass spanker.....

My shee is set up for XC/MX and I ride the dunes!! Fun as hell!!! And yea, Walter, I'm out......

Oh man. it is not good to be mixing and matching shit like that!!! I think you may have left that part of the equation out when you asked the initial question!!!!

Little Sahara

Something got hammered. Maybe a bearing? Maybe a ring? Maybe an eskimo?

Sure, grass drags at my house. Everyone is welcome!!!

I am sure they appreciate it!!

I wish I could. I must thank everyone that helped me out. And tried to make this a go for me. Maybe next year. I haven't been to any dunes in well over a year. My blood is boiling.

Well, due to circumstances surrounding the present situation, Boonman will not be travelling on this trip. He will unfortunately be staying at home. Perhaps next year may be a go. But, this year, will not. I hope y'all have fun. Toss some sand around for me!!!!!!! And definitely drink yerselves sober in the evening hours!!!

They are overpriced no matter where ya are!!!!!

That's what I'm trying to tell you. If you test the stator, and it checks out good, and you test the coil, and it is good, than the CDI is the only thing left. This is provided you have checked all the grounds, and made sure the kill switches are not turned off and there are no broken wires. The easiest way to check a CDi is to swap a known good one onto your bike and go from there. See what I'm sayin? Who gives a damn what the voltage at the coil is. Could be 12v, could be 50v. If the coil is good, and the stator is good, and everything else is alright, than the CDI is likely toasted....

I ran .125 wheels for TT, and I lost a race because of it. A guy on a 250R I was overtaking on the outside, slid the rear wheels into mine, and folded them up. Reinforced all the way!!!!

Alright, I checked and the bearing #'s provided are correct. However, you don't need all that jargon when ordering, or asking for a bearing. The model number is the only one you need. Now, I just cross referenced it with my Bearing manual, and I got this: the bore (ID) is 10mm .3937, OD is 30mm (1.1811), width is 9mm (.3543) and the bearing has a steel strip retainer and a contact seal on both sides. Now, for Part #'s: Barden- 200FF BCA- 200CC Fafnir- 200PP bundle of sticks- 6200-2RSR Federal- 1200R (Federal is no longer manufactured, be aware) General- 6200-2RS Hoover- 99200 (Hoover is now a company named NSK) NSK- 99200 Koyo- 6200-2RS MRC- 200SZZ So, With these numbers, you should be able to cal your local bearing house, and order yourself up some. now, you should also be able to give them one maufacturer # and then tell them to give you either that, or an equivalent. Which they will give you whatever brand they have in stock.

The only possibility to use anything other than a "stock" sized piston, (and I don't mean bore size, I am referring to wrist pin height) is when you run a Long rod, which is a 5mm longer rod. Which means that the wrist pin is set 5mm higher than the stock location to compensate. now, on a stroker motor, we'll use your 4mm crank for example. You will move the piston 2mm higher in the bore, and 2mm lower in the bore. Thus, 2mm higher + 2mm lower = 4mm total added stroke. Now, in order to compensate for the 2mm lower side, you need to have the portwork changed to match it. You can use a spacer plate to compensate for the top end of the extended stroke, but this gives you an xtra place for an air leak to develop. Now, the .080" that you mention, is right about spot on. 1mm is equal to .0394" So, 2mm = .0788". This would need to be cut out of the dome, or use the spacer plate. Either way, to maximize the power that your motor can achieve, I HIGHLY suggest that you have it ported for the type of riding you do. Choose a reputable builder, and go from there. DO not skimp on the $$ in this department. It will piss you off in the end. Do it once, and do it right. The smile on your face will thank you. As will the toilet paper and cleaning bll wen you shit your pants from the power that the proper porting will give you with the 4mm stroker crank. With the normal length rod that you have, you need to use a stock pin location piston, and ggo from there. Decide which avenue you wish to pursue with the spacer plate or a cut dome. Get it ported, and go out and spank some ass!!!!