boonman

You have 2 options, either get a buddy with a banshee, and swap his coil and/or CDI onto your bike to see which one may be bad, or buy new parts. Actually, there is another one, make sure all your grounds are good, and that your kill switch isn't faulty. Be careful about chaffed wires inside the harness, I know you mentioned you checked it already, but chaffed wires are sometimes hard to spot.....

I have plugs on my bike, Imade mine, they were free. I think they do have a purpose. But it is far beyond a topic of discussion. In a perfect world, the balance tube is supposed to take some abnormalities away at certain RPM's. And then came the "boost bottle". What a crock. You don't need the tube, or the bottle. If you want to get the plugs, get them. It cleans things up around the motor, and is more pleasing to the eye, if nothing else. People spend money on chrome this, and polished that, so why not a set of plugs?

You could also tip the machine upside down.

You don't have to split the case to change the shift star. What you do have to do is pull the clutch cover off. Which to do, you would have to drain the oil, and coolant. If you're careful with the gasket, and reclaim the fluids, it won't cost ya nothin' to pull it apart.

I made my own steering stem. I also made a new bar clamp setup that bolts to the new stem. I then ran Tag T2 bars. Raised the bars about 4" from stock. I love it

Dealer is ordering one for $400. But, I have to wait untill Yamaha gets enough orders for them untill they run them.. Oh well. There's no snow here anyways... But thanks!!

I run all Pioneer speakers. 3 way speakers in the doors and rear pillars, and shallow mount subs. Sounds great, and the $$ is VERY reasonable. Beats the snot out of ALOT of other "stereo shop" built systems. i have been running Pioneer mids and tweets for a long time now, always great sound, and very reliable.

Do you have a compression tester? If you do, use it, if you don't, get one, and check it. The head gasket may be smoked.

I see in your sig. that you have 18cc domes listed. And at your compression, you should likely be running race fuel, or a mix of race fuel with 93 pump. Dome size is only one part of the equation for needing race fuel, other factors are ignition timing, squish...... This is a stupid question, but did you mix a good oil in with the fuel before you re-fueled it? If you are having detonation problems, you will likely have some silver speckles on the porcelain of the spark plugs. This is from the center of the piston slowly being melted away....

I would double check your TORS connections, and make sure the parking brake is off. If you want to eliminate the TORS from the equation, and make sure it isn't that, unplug the black box under the fuel tank on the left hand side of the bike (left hand side when siting on it). It is adjacent to the coil. That will eliminate the TORS function and if it runs great, you know one of the switches is either faulty, or the e-brake is on slightly.

I need a reasonably priced track for a 1990 Yamaha Sno-Sport. Not a scoot, the sport. (the big boy.... ) What ya think?

Sounds like a fueling problem. When it dies, is the plug wet? Is it dumping fuel out of the carb vent line? It could also be an electrical gremlin, but I would start with the fuel. try riding it around right after you fire it up. Does it die out quicker?

I got a low PSI guage at Wal-Mart.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere in the wiring. And the revving thing, that scares me. Could be an air leak.

I don't think you will have a problem. Is what I would do if it was mine, or I was building it, I would grind out the debris, likely there is pieces of crank/rod/bearing lodged in there. Smooth and polish it up a little, and when you drop the new crank in there, double check there is enough clearance and you will be good to go. My motor had some scars like that when the crank let go, but I polished it up and have had no problem since. That was years ago. :beer:

If your at sea level, than I wouldn't go more than .025". If you're above sea level, .030" would be fine. And you shouldh ave your crank assembly welded, as mentioned. For reasons you do NOT want to find out the hard way.

I don't think it's the star, but putting in a modded star is a wonderful thing to do!! I do believe you have a misadjustment on the shift shaft that is causing the shift lever to not engage properly on the star and in turn the shift drum isn't rotating enough, (or at all) to select the gear(s) you want. But, when you put the star in, re-adjust the shaft assembly as per the manual specs.

You may not see much of a change in tranny fluid if you have a small leak on that crank seal. Now, the next test, what does the right side exhaust smell like? And what type of oil do you run in the tranny? If you run gear oil, and the cranks seal is leaking, it will smell HORRENDOUS. Also, what does the plug look like on the right side? Is it really dark? If it is, and the other side isn't really dark, I would suspect a crank seal. :ninja:

The information you are asking for is "trick of the trade" secrets from the builders. Everyone has their own opinion on what works best, and what doesn't work. I doubt you will get much response. If you have the guts to go ahead and give it a whirl, do what you think is best. But be absolutely sure of what you are doing. IMHO, if you have to ask, you likely shouldn't be doing the porting. Don't take this the wrong way, I don't build motors for others. Just stating what you will most likely not find..... :beer:

Well, the tie rods are threaded this way for easier adjustment without having to remove one of the tie rods. ANyways, grab a measuring tape, and adjust yourself for a touch of toe in. I like to measure from the center rib of the tire, and measure the front, and then the back. (of the front tire, don't worry abotu the rear tires....)

Hey man, I'm doin alright. Just been busy as all hell. My landscaping business has been rediculously busy this season. No complaints though, just bustin' ass sunup till sundown. Anyways, Bansheeman, knowing where the piston is melted tells you a great deal on what happened. Being that the piston melted near the exhaust port tells me that you were running extremely lean on that cylinder. Because the exhaust was soooo hot that it melted the piston when it was on it's way out of the cylinder. This could either mean a cloged jet, (usually the main) or an air leak. You should ALWAYS do a leakdown test and a squish check on a freshly built motor. I remember back when I smoked the engine 3 times in my bike in one month. I learned the hard way. SOunds as though you are as well. If you blew a hole in the center of the piston, you had some detonation issues, from either a fuel octane problem, or improper squish, improper timing, and the list goes on. One can also contribute to the other as well. You could have a lean condition, couple with some low grade "mexicana fuel" and that could melt some things, and there are other factors, but having a melted exhaust side of the piston is 99% of the time a lean condition. Also make sure the pistons go in the correct way, and not backwards. And keep the carbs clean!!!!

You need a set of banshee spindles that you don't mind cutting and welding on. You then need to get a set of snowmobile spindles. Weld them together, and presto. You have a way to bolt skis onto the banshee. Safely. Don't bolt skis onto the hub, and don't strap skis to the tire(s).

You need to find a local fastener place around you, or order them from Alba. or if you know the size, I probably have them.

You say you had to beat the piston out the first time. What happened? What did the piston look like when you got it out? Where was it melted? Near the exhaust side of the piston? Or was there a hole in the middle? Did you check the squish on the engine when you got it all back together? What was the compression of the motor? Vito's pistons are custom cut and made to his specs. Checking the squish on them is necessary IMHO.

Picture yourself picking the front end off the ground, and having the weight of the skis rotate themselves around on you when your spring setup fails, and when the front end comes down, you go over the bars, and it ruins your day, and likely some parts on your bike. Now, with that thought in your head, you can now begin to think clearly. The skis in the pic are ones that I made. the bike in the picture is JT's machine. There is a right way, and a wrong way to do it. That picture is the correct way. In one form or another. you need to use a setup similar to a snowmobile, with a rubber block cushion to allow the ski to move and follow the terrain, but limit it's travel when the ski isn't on the ground. Swapping the spindles is very simple. And only takes about 45 minutes start to finish to swap the bike over. Maybe an hour with jetting changes. ANyways, I did a winter's worth of testing on that setup years ago, and di alot of whooping up on sleds in the trails. With that comment there, I GUARANTEE when someone reads it, they will come on and tell me that their F7 this, and Rev that, and Fusion something or other will put a hurtin' on any shee. Now, notice I said trail. I do not mean Canadian trails, or wide sweeping groomers. I'm talkin elbow bangin, tight trails. The kind we have here in New York near Buffalo. Anyways, back on track with the topic here. You NEED the spindle(s) from the donor snowmobile. If you don't have a donor, buy them new from the dealer. And use the rubber cushion blocks. Please for your own safety do not try to bolt a ski on the hub of your banshee. the end result will not be good. :beer: