97Screamer

Motor City ATV is a known bad seller. Google Rattle Can Ray Banshee. He is known to pull the bait and switch, posting pictures of the nicest parts and then selling junk. Sorry to hear he got you too. I won't buy Vito parts just because I know hes somehow connected and don't want to support someone that rips people off.

They are 35mm PWK Air Strikers. Worth $200-300 IMO.

For those floats? Brand new, newer generation are only $1200. I'll sell you my floats and Alba LT arms for $900. Shocks are worth $600ish imo. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

The stickers were a retro kit released in 2015. Those are the previous generation floats and I'm happy with mine. I have some Elka stage 4 I put on, rode once, and went back to the floats. Never ridden the newest floats so I don't know how these compare. I also am upgrading to Fireball arms and will be selling a set of Alba arms with Floats, Elkas or Axis shocks if anyone is interested.

^ Captain obvious lol.

If you are building your arms yourself you can pick any length and model you want and then place the mounts accordingly. You'll need shocks that have the correct extended and compressed length for your arms and then of course valved for your application. Any reason you're building your own arms? There is a lot of design and analysis that goes into proper arm/shock geometry.

My seat of the pants dyno says yes. Better throttle response IMO.

I agree with Tony. I run 28 on my stock stoke dune port and 4mil dune port and am happy with them. You'd also need new filters if you went 33 and your bottom end would likely suffer.

I don't think this guy parted out, he never responded to anyone. I have one with a rattle for $45 if you're interested message me.

I'm not sure. I honestly didn't know they could be separated til I googled it. Looks like you can buy that bracket on eBay for $10. I'm sorry, I'm not willing to break up my complete set to sell the bracket though.

Yes I have Paypal. I believe I have an entire rear brake setup but don't think I have the bracket separate.

I have some k&n filters coming with some parts I bought. If they are in good shape you can have them for $20.

You'll be happy. I have a dune ported 4mil stock cylinder ported by Kevin, runs great.

Axle and heel guards sold

Its been a long time since I jetted stock carbs and know nothing about that altitude so I'm going to stay away from giving you numbers. There is a jetting forum here that if your patient you can find any combo you can dream up. Other things that will matter include: are you running a stock airbox with lid? Reeds? Temperature?

Yes, if its down on compression you would notice a lack of power but if you didn't know what the bike felt like at full compression you might not notice. You wouldn't be the first to buy a banshee of unknown origin, think the motor is great and then two weeks later be back here asking about top end kits. When motors start to wear it is also more noticeable when cold. As they warm up pistons expand and they'll run hard. Not saying your top end is bad, just saying it might be. A compression test will tell you for sure. If you have an aftermarket head you'd have to take the domes out to know what it should be (unless you already know what size domes). Regardless of the compression I would open up the carbs, clean all the passages and see what size jets are in there and if that size makes sense for your location and mods. Good luck!

Now I'm going to say carbs or compression. I don't think its the clutch. Start at the easiest to test, I would do a compression test and if its good clean your carbs. Good compression depends on what mods but stock is 120ish and will give you problems starting cold around 100.

Yes a manual will be your best friend. PM me your email address and I'll send you a pdf of the Yamaha manual. Bogging and dying leads me to believe its carbs and not clutch. If you post up all your known mods and your elevation and temperature the guys around here should be able to help you get your jetting close. There is a good chance your pilot jets are clogged from gas sitting in the bowls and cleaning them could solve your problem. There are also a dozen other things it could be. Does your bike start easily without using the throttle? Does it bog when its rolling and you get on the gas? Pilot circuit controls up to about 1/4 throttle so if you have problems in all situation under 1/4 throttle that would be a tell tell sign.

OEM chrome pegs and shifter ($67): some scratches and chrome chipping but overall good shape. OEM Kicker ($57): great shape, tight no rattle. OEM Rear Axle Assembly ($150): Tight carrier bearings, good splines, good rotor and sprocket, ready to run Unknown reeds ($40): cage has damage but I believe still unable, please ask for pics Plastics cut for oversized tank (Pay Shipping) OEM Heel guards ($145) OEM Head ($20): one side pitted Prices include shipping and fees in US. Please message me your number or email address and I'll send you all the pictures you could ever want. Also have a bunch of other parts I'll be posting as I have time so if you're buying something and are also looking for something else feel free to ask. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

On a hard, flat surface my shees start moving barely touching the throttle, 1/8 or less. If you need to get to 1/2 throttle to make it move I would make sure the clutch isn't excessively worn or out of adjustment and slipping. If this were the case you would notice slipping when ridding too but if you don't know what that feels like it might be less noticeable. Not trying to be offensive when I say that, just not sure how long you've had the bike and how familiar you are with them. Could also be a pilot circuit problem with the jetting/carbs.

Not normal, nor is an occasional backfire. I would start by inspecting the clutch.

I've got an oem switch I'll sell for $30. Just let me know if you want it. I have a ton of other oem parts too if you're looking for anything else.

That's good to know. I won these parts in an auction in January on eBay for $250. Apparently this guy wasn't happy with that price and didn't have the balls or decency to refund my money or ship the parts. I had to wait three weeks to be able to file a claim on eBay and then go through that whole process since he was a bum. About a month later they popped back up on eBay for $600. Buyer beware.

Is that your front end setup Toybreaker?