Keno

It'll be fine. I like my front end a little wider than the rear. This way if my front end fits through the trail, I won't clip the rear.

What carbs and jetting? Have you visually inspected the reeds? How did you sync the carbs? To me it sounds like the carbs are out of sync.

Have you synced your carburetors?

Cheaper to buy this radiator and one of the $20 hose kits in whatever color. [emoji41]

Too expensive. The radiator should be under $55 shipped. Try this one. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253924238624

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382451770283 In the listing they have the price as $360. So expect your order to be cancelled.

Just search ebay for that title.

Awful smell means gear oil. Needs new crank seals.

Are you guys talking about this? http://www.robinsonindustriesinc.com/product-page/banshee-kickstarter-gear-clutch-bearing

New one, http://redlineracing.biz/shop/banshee-clutch-basket-gear/

No reason to do math. just use a mixing container. lol https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-Racing-10920-Quick-2-Mix-Mixing/dp/B0012TZ2CE

If you are talking about the sound that sounds like tapping on a tin can, then that is a normal sound. No worries. Detonation usually occurs in mid to top rpm range, just fyi.

Buy these https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/190721-pt-mids

I was running my 421 Serval on 21cc Domes, 0.055" squish, a 1:1 ratio of 91 and 100ll, and using curve 3 on a Dynatek, which is 15* at 10-12K rpm (similar to +6). Elevation 1500ft. Didn't have any deto. I forget what my static compression was, though. Currently running 91 octane on 24cc domes, 0.045" squish and 13* at 10-12K (similar to +4) I honestly haven't bothered checking comp on this setup. These setups used Shearer SBIF and PWK 35s. Hopefully this helps a little

https://www.grc.nasa.gov/www/k-12/airplane/wrong1.html

If the pressure in the system increases, then boiling point increases. This helps prevent cavitation of the hot liquids in the pump. Also helps prevent boiling of the coolant in other low pressure areas of the system.

SMH

This is false according to the formula for convection. Q=ha(delta T). Also h increases as flow increases. The only time an increase in flow is detrimental, is if the flow rate causes low pressure areas that cause the coolant to boil, drastically decreasing h. So three ways to increase heat transfer, increase thermal transfer coefficient of the fluid, increase surface area, increase temperature delta.

Okay there seems to be some confusion about rad temp versus engine temp. Lets say the radiator is able to produce a 100 degree delta. As in keep the engine 100 degrees above ambient. So if ambient temps are 100 degrees the engine runs at 200 degrees. If ambient is 50 then engine temp is 150. A 180 degree thermostat will be open all the way when ambient temp is 80. If there is a 180 thermostat and the ambient temp is 100 then the engine temp is still going to be 200. Same as a non thermostat circuit. Below 80 ambient the thermostat will be partially closed, limiting flow of coolant. This limiting of flow reduces the amount of heat being removed from the cylinder by the radiator. This maintains cylinder temps at 180 and reduces the temperature delta of the radiator. Thus in this example. Anything above 80 ambient the engine and radiator temps are ambient plus 100 degrees. And anything under 80 the one with the thermostat is engine 180 and radiator anything under 180. If there is no thermostat then the radiator and engine arr both ambient plus 100.

I've used stabil, crc, and stabrite. Usually whatever i can find.

I follow the instructions on the fogging oil. With engine running apply light throttle, spray into each carb intake untill motor almost stalls. Stop motor, spray in each spark plug hole. Works great on jetskis with steel sleeves.

Don't forget to model a thermostat, since a thermostat greatly increases the amount of cooling....[emoji1787] "Sarcasm is intended in case something is lost in translation"

Maybe, Probably not. I'm no expert, but it's been my understanding that some synthetic oils are slightly hygroscopic (absorb moisture). Manufacturers use additives to counteract this. Race oils I guess often contain lesser amounts and are not recommended for long term storage. I'm betting it is a bigger problem in humid climates and in watercraft. Honestly, I would probably run either oil. Contacting Klotz would be the best way to get a definitive answer.

Pretty sure Super Techniplate doesn't contain rust inhibitors. Not a big deal if you ride often or use fogging oil before long term storage.

Could try a rivnut if wanting to affix with a screw.