Keno

Regular pwks or pwk airstrykers? The pilot jet and needle are different between the two. Regular pwks are easier to tune on banshees.

JFWIW, I had a Procom that lasted 20 minutes. It seems that aftermarket stators either last or die a quick death. Currently running an RMstator that has lasted 3 hours, but I always have a stock stator in my toolbox just incase.

Lol. Poor Sully. I'm not an expert, but asphalt racing usually uses slip in the clutch to tune the launch. You could play with how you are letting the clutch out. Also what is your jetting? And are your carbs pwk's or pwk airstykers?

Just cause you paid someone else to do it doesn't mean it was done correctly. And damn, $80 to sync the carbs, seriously buy the tool, save yourself another $50.

Lol, thread starts with someone being upset about receiving his order a week early and ends with a reverse cuckold.

Pro Tip - Clean the outside of the motor before opening it up. I cut a slit in a rag and put the rods through it to cover the open cases. Been doing that ever since dealing with cageless wrist bearings on jetskis. Its no good trying to fish those out of a case.

I found it in less than 5 minutes. http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/3240/

175 seems pretty large. When i had 34PJ s on my 421 I was around 160.

Lol. Makes sense. He was so angry.

Wait, what happened to zilla?

Sorry, I don't know anyone from KC. I'm from Kiowa, KS.

Wtf does "cheechin" mean? Sounds like it could be the seal. Does the smoke smell like gear oil? You could pressure test the engine to verify a leak. Or just buy a seal kit and go to town. Only takes a few hours to do. Don't forget rtv on the keyway. And get a seal pick set to remove the smaller seals. The oil by the sprocket is almost always the neutral safety plate. The plastic cracks, get a billet one. Timing plates don't cause seals to leak.

Chariot are hardened also.

Thats modquad. Mull uses a hardened shaft.

Mine rubbed too, made an awful screech for about 10 seconds and clearanced itself. Hasn't made a noise in 2 years now.

Just give the bearing a little tappy tap tap.

Hey at least they make stuff here too, unlike the chinese stuff. I don't understand how the blatant counterfeit copies don't get seized at customs.

Pretty sure Keihin is Japanese. But the point is, knockoffs hurt everyone. The chinese ones are shit quality.

If this is for an RD400. Leave it pump gas friendly. 0 sense in wasting race fuel putting around town.

What is your compression? Although not a definite indicator of needed octane, it is usually a reliable indicator. Increased octane is used to prevent donation due to increased compression and/or timing.

Easiest thing is to buy a drag harness from Kompulsive Koncepts. And cap off black and yellow wires from stator. Top end break up is probably lean on main jet or a bad ground from case to frame. And/or read this http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html Specifically the area with this image http://www.dfn.com/agservices/banshwdc2.jpg But just cap off the yellow and black wires at the stator and remove the lights and associated wiring and regulator.

I HATE canker sores. Burn them with Silver Nitrate!

Sync your carbs.

Wow, just checked, 100LL is only $3.89/gallon in my area. Last summer is was $4.25/gallon! http://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html Is race fuel still over $10/gallon?

It has a pretty low specific gravity, so some oils don't like to mix with it. Options are to mix a little regular gasoline in, or change to a different oil. I think its just castor based oils that have issues. Amsoil mixes fine with it, as should many other synthetics.