Keno

Also curious what +5 with a dynatek is? As it is a programmable that could be anything. Also +5 on a dynatek's "stock" curve is actually more than a stock cdi's +5.

Plugs backing out is detonation. You are having it at sea level as your jetting is probably just lean enough (at sea level) to allow for detonation. You can either Jet up, pull back timing, or decrease compression.

Correct, No reason to rejet. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No need to.

I don't know much about Magura clutch set-ups. But, have you checked/cleaned the line, slave cylinder, andmaster cylinder? Checked the lever for binding? Is it adjusted properly with the clutch? I believe you can buy different diameter master cylinders from magura. Not many run magura set ups here, you may have to call Magura. Don't know if it'll help, but here is a setup video from RMATV.

So when you separate the needle jet holder and the Main jet, is the main jet a normal Keihin jet? Jet drills are nice unless you forget that a jet was drilled and think its a 150 and actually a 200 lol

Post a picture of the jet. I’m doubting your main jet is 1 to 2 inches long.

I’m with tricked. Run them if they are in good condition. BTW, from my rudamentary picture scouring, it looks like since they have the top lock nut and the white zerk caps that they are probably from Alba. Your’s appear to be an older set without the extra plate under the shock mount. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Probably generic +2+1 a arms from eBay or Amazon. But could be Alba. I believe they all look very similar.

I put finger throttles on my jetskis. Figured I'd throw a third horse into this race.

You really can't adjust the thumb position? Geeze. Looks like Chariot still has some red and chrome throttles in his eBay store. Edit: Holey poop, the Urmosi pro is over $300. I would try the trx90 lever in a Honda 400ex/450r housing thing first.

For some reason the bottom friction isn't sitting down far enough. If you have the clutch cushion rings, they can be removed.

Post pictures

I'm not a welder, but it may he prudent to degrease and preheat the cases. Also you'll probably want to take it apart so you don't melt the seals nearby. Maybe someone who knows how to weld cast aluminum will chime in.

Knock off carbs for $300!? Fuck that. Buy real ones.

Download Tapatalk on your phone. Soooo much easier.

25 hours on the clutch. Several trips to LSOK. Still holding. Must have been the bushing and/or washers.

I'm in Kansas. Currently going to Pharmacy school at KU in Wichita. Luckily, all my stuff is at my parents which is conveniently between me and LSOK.

Just goes to show, if you're trying to get jetting advice with chinese carbs it is a crap shoot.

Airstrykers usually jet way low on pilot due to the fins in the carb that direct air over the base of the needle. I have airstrykers and my jetting is 35/152 right now on a 421 Serval w/ shearer sbif and 1100ft asl Chinese airstrykers obviously don't jet like either of the real Keihins.

Drop the pilot jet to a 45. See if it helps. If your carbs jet like airstrykers you'll end up around a 35. Also read this. https://www.duncanracing.com/s/KeihinCarbJetting-2015.pdf Once you get idle and the pilot set, then start working on the main

Keihin pwk, Keihin pwk Airstryker, or Chinese 35mm knockoffs?

Ah, okay I've never messed with stock carbs. With pwks I use an air flow meter.

So, did you clean the filters and then re oil them? Nvm, just saw that you replaced the filters. 3/4 to full throttle should mostly be controlled by the main jet.

You synced them at partial throttle? Or just at idle