Keno

I love my Natural Clarke tank. It's awesome at the dunes to just look down and see how much fuel I have left. Mines only a year old, but it hasn't yellowed yet. Claude, the Clarke tanks use Honda caps if you are wanting to replace the stock one. But I suppose you'll just make your own lol.

No havn't added any weight. I haven't noticed any slipping with the heavier springs. But I'm open to adding some weight if it will help prevent my next clutch from grenading. To be fair the basket has had 1 clutch crack 2 frictions and another clutch friction explode. So its had some abuse. I guess I just want to know how people with higher hp motors keep from cracking or grenading clutch frictions.

for exhaust plugs use 1-1/4" rubber expansion plugs 2x$5= $10.00 for intake plug use 1" sched40 pipe plug 2x$1.00 = $2.00 0-15 psi pressure guage $8 Tire stem $0.25 Jb weld to seal pressure guage $5 Total: $25.25

Yeah, I replaced hub and pp last summer, hub looks grooved now. My basket has some gashes now sadly will probably be replaced. Also I'm missing about half a friction plate. Damn. I'm going to order a hub and pp and probably a new basket. Ugh.

Current Setup- 91 octane, 24cc domes, 421 Serval, Shearer SBIF, Kehin 35mm A/S, Chariot Clutch basket, DD Lockup, 2.86 Staight cut gears, Sleeper06 Promod, Amsoil Dirt Bike Transmission oil Riding - Dunes, pasture with hills, very mild jumping (like a few feet) Last summer - Shattered a finger off stock basket w/ FAST Clutch, shattered several clutch frictions, ruined helical gears. Replaced with Chariot basket, Driveline Clutch, 2.86 Staight cuts, and Promod. November - Went to LSOK, Clutch was slipping badly under half throttle. Was using the springs that Driveline provides in their standard kit. Steels were blue and 2 clutch frictions were cracked. Figured springs weren't strong enough, Replaced with 3 EBC +10% and 3 EBC FZ600 +10% springs. and Tusk Clutch(Probably a bad choice.) Today - Clutch was dragging. Took cover off, 1 friction shattered into several peices with some of it missing. Ordered another Driveline Clutch and will be reusing the 3 EBC +10% Banshee and 3 EBC FZ700 +10% spring combo. I don't understand, I only have probably a 80hp setup. Has anyone had experience with breaking clutch plates? if so, how did you rectify the problem? I'll Post some Picture here shortly.

Right handed.

Cold grease is THICK AF. Put a bearing in the freezer. It'll be very hard to rotate.

Yep, TDR bought the remaining Trex stock from DASA. Only guy that has parts.

Drive to Michigan and pick them up on your way to LSOK?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12-x-Vitos-Performance-A-Arm-DUST-COVER-CAPS-Yamaha-Banshee-YFZ450-Raptor-87-06/272517494869?hash=item3f734ef855:g:o6EAAOSwImRYdTRS&vxp=mtr cheapest I could find. A shop may be able to order them directly from pivot works or all balls for the same or cheaper. Pivot works part number is #Y-CA-004

Pretty much what Toybreaker said. Post a pic up and post any other modifications.

That is a very nice and shiny bike. I personally like the nerfs. My kicker hits mine sometimes, but doesn't get stuck. The chrome on your Snipers looks way better than the dull chrome on my Shearers. I'm using Claudia's clamps on my Shearer's, definitely an upgrade over the Cascade clamps.

Almost everyone uses a #6.

Do UPPs still have the problem of the carb nut interfering with the clutch actuator? Or did they fix that?

30w x 2 = 60w 26w x 2 = 52w (probably actually like 30w total) 60w + 52w = 112w But the led lights are probably under driven by quite a bit to increase life. So they probably draw 10-50% less than advertised. Stock stator is good to around 90w I believe. So go for it.

I'm no expert on stock carbs, but 270 sounds lean. I think toomey recommends a 280 and then you have pods, advanced timing, and it is winter. Soo try maybe a 290 main or higher

Looks like the main difference is they changed to a matte black finish, increased the thickness of the plate that the bead lock ring screws into from .160 to .190, and are now including black hardware. Still use the same bead lock rings. Either the original or 2 will be fine.

Loctite 243 or 248 on any bolt

The further from the arrow, the less travel of the push rod. Its a matter of trig. Why not set up your clutch for the most clutch pack separation.

I know this is going to blow your mind, but your cable and lever have nothing to do with adjusting the pusher. This is the only video I found that shows how to do it correctly. @about 7 minutes. The South Texas banshee video is wrong.

Calculating rpm that way is hard due to the deformation of the tires at speed. The faster you go, the taller your tires get!

I guarantee he doesn't know what a squish band is.

You'll definitely want a clymers or find someone that has one. I'm wondering if you are missing this spacer. You'll need to take the right side cover off, and pull the shift shaft out to check. Should be part# 90560-12171-00 Finding someone near you that has seen the inside of a Banshee would be amazing, though.

Lol, no one is ever going to admit they were wrong.

You'll need to use Firefox or Chrome, but here is how I see the photobucket photos on my PC. FireFox: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-fix/?src=api Chrome: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hotlinkfix=1514572877281