joey83

IOU- $1 Glad youre getting it figured out. good luck

$28 billion says it's not the needle and seat. $29.5 billion says it's not the "wet side seal" but I do like the way you learn words and use the fuck out of them. Please tell me more about the ignition on a Banshee when you get time.. I will be waiting patiently. $1.00 says it's a carb issue $2.00 says it's a fouled plug or bad connection on boot or similar PM Paypal info ^^^^

Me and a couple buddies are going to go in a couple/few weeks. I missed the hq ride due to sick kiddos..

This was a KX 250 with plated cyl. He said he started it and it was idling really high and he had been having problems with throttle cable. so instead of killing it he started messing with the kink in throttle cable for 30-40 secs and it died. tried to kick it and had no compression. I bought it from him like that and rebuilt it and have clocked 10 hours on it since. How long do those alky motors hang up like that?

Lean out = Too much air and not enough fuel. Engine runs extreeeeemely hot and melts down top end. I have seen this happen in neutral. My friend had a dirtbike that the throttle cable was idling engine really high and melted it down.

It doesnt sound like you were messing with the idle screw. All the way in and out two sounds like your A/F mixture screw. Maybe you leaned it out right there? But I really dont know if it would melt down idling unless you just had it screwed all the way in. Listen to what everybody has said. It's exactly what I woukd do too. Do not tear the head off or without doing a leakdown first. Ask questions. Good luck.

You have helped so many people with your link to a service manual that everybody already knew about. Keep up the fantastic work. Everybody is sure to love you.

Are you stealing all those AC coils to fund that build? jk super nice bike.

Put a +12 swingarm on it yet?

Yes. Pilot jet dirty/plugged. Or low comp. Neutral between 2nd and 3rd is bad. A comp check would be easiest thing to check first. If it's ok I'd move to carbs.

Maybe I missed something but both of you guy's bikes are really close to each other in mods. Stock stroke, pipes, open air box. OP, before you start throwing jets at it, do a plug chop. Did you do a leak down test after rebuild? I would NOT drop from a 300 to a 250 in one setting! Plug chop it and if it shows rich drop 1-2 jet sizes and chop again.

I wondered about the clutch not disengaging J*madd but I can be in gear with clutch only half pulled in and it will sit and idle without trying to move or pulling the engine down. Going to break in to it tomorrow and smooth out the shift start and adjust it. Thanks guys--

Idle it up. I had to take another 1/8" off mine and theyre still almost all the way in.

I had to take my stock carbs down a ton to get the idle screw to hit the slide. Dont just take it down flat, keep going some. After it started did it idle when u left off???

I call mine FUCK YOU POS when nobody is around.

Willba shift star mod also help with this?If Im tearing in there Im gonna do it anyways.

Getting my junk ready for this weekend and my bike is dicking with me. It will NOT go in neutral with engine idling and sitting still. It does ok when Im rolling but its tough to hit. Its fine with engine killed. Shift star adjustment?

What does it say by VITO'S on the rods? I think you're going to need the numbers off the rods.

Ive got a couple of them too. rattling kicker and 2 hangers $27 shipped.

All this? 87 Yamaha Banshee. Restoration almost complete. 58HP on the Dyno with 130psi Noss Head 21cc domes. 150psi .055 squish. DIY dune/drag ported cylinders. Cast Naumara 65.50mm pistons. Trued and welded stock crank. Tors eliminated rebuilt stock carbs. Dynojet stage 2 needles. 30 pilots 350 mains. K&N's w/ prefilters direct to carbs Timing degrees @ +4 degrees. Race Tech Electric stator. Xenon 45watt bulbs. Driveline heavy duty clutch w/ pancake bearing. Vortex billet basket. Billet water pump gear & drive. Over sized radiator. FMF gold series fatties w/ Q series muffs. 14f/41r SunStar/PBI Tires 21x7x10f 22x10x9r. 93 A arm frame. Pro Elite bumper. Full Flight +3+1 arms + 4 rear swing arm. YFZ 450 shocks in front. GTT rebuilt rear shock. 1.6 ProMadd handle bar risers. Heavy duty hand guards. PRM six pack rack, rear skid & nerfs. Pro Armor full chassis skid plate.

Is that what it cost to build yours??

Zilla is looking for the attack Are those all your bikes??

Theres 60 pages of excitement

+5 means advancing the timing 5 degrees.. They come from the factory with a very safe timing set up. Just keep fresh fuel in it. Make sure to get a flywheel puller! Other mods to look in to are: 1. Have your cylinders ported 2. Drop in 4mil crank. ^^ Have your builder port for the 4mm crank. 3. Cool head with some domes. Then re-jet your carbs to match new stuff. What kind of riding do you do? If you're a wide open rider maybe some bigger carbs but not absolutely necessary. What's on your bike now???

Search^^^^^ Modify yours for free. But read up. You're going to need a flywheel puller. Its behind the flywheel. Good luck...