Zillaguy

Terrycable makes custom cables. http://www.terrycable.com/

Rear caliper, and ign coil.. I'm in Westland, can I pick it up?

Those marks are not caused by deto... Deto will look like the you sand blasted a divet or a hole in the piston, it won't be clean dents like that... That looks like a chunk of bearing or ring was getting smashed between the head and piston... did the ring line up pin(s) fall out of the piston? If so those may have come loose due to deto.. I'd tear the motor down to inspect everything... I'd also loosen up that squish to at least .040 if not .045

Sounds like the stator to me.. I had ricky stator bad right out of the box.. It had the same issue you're having...

Snap-On makes a tool to test for this... It uses a turkey baster type tool that is filled with a blue fluid, that will turn green if there is any carbon monoxide getting in the cooling system... They sell for about $100.00.

Sounds like a compression to cooling system leak.... I see this in cars everyday, I had a Nissian Quest minivan that overpressurizied so bad it grenaded the radiator. Because the headgasket was blown. The reason you were low on coolant was the motor ingested some of it and burned it... Was there more smoke than normal coming from the exhaust?

I rec. not using Loc-Tite... If you properly torque the screws that hold the stator assy. to the plate they won't come loose... I have a screw driver torque wrench, I set it at 18in/lbs and tighten them... i have never had them come loose... Mattoon Machine has a good deal on billet plates, thats where I got mine... Screw that degree key, what a piece of junk.... They used to use those on older Mercedes engines to get the cams degreed to the cranks properly, they made like 8 different off-sets... When you turbo the engines, they would shear those keys off and destroy $10,000+ engines all the time!

AHHH HAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Lets not forget about Kwame Kenyatta, or Saunteel Jenkins! LOL

Will you sell the silencers seperate?

I'll give you $275.00 I'm in Westland.

The one in the clutch cover can be blocked off... The one from the rear of the case can be cut short and pointed down with the carb vent lines... Someone makes a billet block off plate for the one on the clutch cover behind the water pump outer cover....

With the 4mm long rod crank I have 19cc 4mil cut domes and run pump fuel with the timing at +7... The domes need to be cut 2mm deep than a normal dome... because the pistons come 2mm up out of the bores....

^^^ What he said^^^ The helical gears can cause the inner race of a TZ bearing to "walk" out which will for sure damage the bearing, if not the crank or cases...

Your jetting should be 290 main and 27.5 pilot, middle clip on the needle, and 1.5 turns out on the pilot air screws... Don't use a BR9ES plug it is one step COLDER than stock... NGK heat ranges run backwards, i.e a 9 is colder than an 8, and a 7 is hotter than an 8... I had the same problem with my stock motor, I rebuilt the top end and it was fine... It ended up having an egg shaped bore, causing it not to seal correctly when it was cold, it would slightly clean up after it got hot. But, was not perfect until after a bore job and new pistons and ring sets..

^^^ LOL I second that!^^^

I have a slow 4mil stock cyl, 4mil aggressive dune port,.. I built it with all new parts, the specifics are in my signature....

I built my 4mill over this winter, with all the supporting mods that go along with it, i'm $2300.00 into my motor..

I have a full set of black Maiers on my bike along with their carbon fiber look tank and rad covers... they fit perfect, although they do scuff real easy...

The 110 rods put more side load on the cylinder walls causing the bores to egg shape, but they rev up faster and you can run stock pistons...... The 115 rod set up which you will need wiseco 795 series pistons for will last a lot longer without having to be rebuilt.. I'd go for longer life, rather than trying to save a few bucks.

Must be fuel friendly hose!

Pingle dual feed petcock.

pics

I run Klotz Flexdrive synthetic racing 2-stroke transmission fluid... But anything that is "wet clutch compatible" will work. I just prefer Klotz..

I'd go with a 3000mah nimh battery

It uses an RC car battery... Go to a hobby shop and buy a $30.00 charger.... You can also buy better batteries at the hobby shop too.