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got that right. motor footcontrol and straight piece $30 cheaper on da internet. 10 bits at $7 vs $15. saved yourself $80 there. ya dumb basterds

goddam i already said straight piece is far cheaper on ebay .what part of that cant u comprehend???? said bits are half price most anywhere. do u understsnd ?????

maybe im not following what your saying ? if I have a question about a engine, cc would be the last place on the planet I would turn to for help. as for the tools they carry, its all pretty straight forward in function and use. if one of their in house tools broke then I could see a quick phone call to let them know your sending it back but otherwise I cant see where a phone call would be needed. surely nobody would need cc customer service to tell you how to use the tool. for repair of some the other tools they sell, I imagine they would want you to send it back to the manufacturer which is foredom. so ya maybe a 5min call would be needed there also. still for 1.5x-3x more cc charges for their stuff, I cant see where this little bit of customer service is worth the price but that's just me. support who you want I don't care. I was merely saying you can get some of the exact tools elsewhere for cheaper. far as I know it makes no difference where you buy a foredom tool, warranty is still honored just the same

who can resist a old lady

been quit a while since i bought any right angle stuff so i dont know

forgot to mention but besides the lower prices elsewhere, other places have far better selection as well

straight hand piece is quit a bit cheaper on ebay. cc rapes you on bits. just one example but this applies to all their bits. they want $15 but other places have the same made in usa bit for $7. of my 40 or so bits only a couple are from cc. nothing against cc but I normally ovoid them. I realize they have to make money and that's perfectly fine but they go beyond trying to make alittle profit. more like bend people over

i dont buy much from cc. some of their stuff can be found cheaper elsewhere

my hats off to anyone that can build something like that. im sure its a boat anchor and probly doesn't have a shit ton of power given its 1200cc but none the less its cool. most likely im thinking its just for cruising around town or something like that. not sure what other purpose it could have

put your money in porting tools, a small 3 in 1 mill lathe and a welder. those things will benefit you most

you planning to open up shop or just do your own stuff ? to me it doesn't make sense to get involved with cranks for personal projects but that's just me. let someone else like crankworks deal with it and you worry about the head, crankcase and cylinder stuff.

from experience I can tell you that one of them titan extractors is probly the best thing to use from the get go before you bust the stud. they grip a large surface area and clamps down near the bottom. another thing you don't want to do is turn the case on its side and try to turn the stud out or youll likely be applying downward force as well which makes it more likely to break off if that makes sense. small amount of heat from propane or mapgas might not hurt either but I wouldn't go crazy in one localized spot. another thing about corroded studs is they often times take the case threads with them which is another good reason to use a small bit of heat. if the stud breaks the last thing to use is one of them extractors. they wedge in there and expand the broken piece making it near impossible to screw out. before you crack the cases, if you haven't already, I would probly weld something to the broken piece the best you can. let it cool down and then heat the case material around it

handle grips first thing

probly cost 15k originally. just another reason its a sport on the brink of extinction. broke dicks are the only buyers when you go to sell

jt I thought your taking that TSS to Utah where the real mccoy hill is ?

3G for this clapped out pile. email him and say youll pay 4G because its such good shape buwahahahah http://moseslake.craigslist.org/mcy/5722423885.html?lang=es&cc=mx

the most important which you forgot is youll be lucky to recoup half your money when it goes up for sale

probly the ones i seen at 35th and hanover street pawnshop. 300 bones and theyre yours

regardless of piston and rod, it wont affect the timing if a corresponding spacer is used. the extra stroke is another matter and the reason i said he might want to get some assistance. if theres no chance to get the jugs ported he may just want to go back to a 54mm crank, with either rod. this would keep it much simpler

thats a bummer you got a wiseco. ya i would get rid of it but stay with 115 rod imo.

me personally i would keep the crank you have now rather than exchanging it but thats your call. as long as it isnt wiseco brand you should be fine

sander, 795 pistons arent mandatory. most people use them for convenience to offset the extra 5mm of the longer rod but you dont have to use them if you dont want. this is where having some experience is good ,so you can make all the pieces fit together. spacer plate can be made fairly easily with simple hand tools like jigsaw,dremel and drill. you could even do it with just a dremel if you were ambitious enough. knowing how thick of spacer to use can be tricky if your not familiar with engines. maybe your friend that sold you the crank can offer assistance since he local to you

ram site only shows 6'4" box with mega cab. mega with 8' bed would be a mile long

sand 101. use outer filter regardless of main filter type

good ol minkia hes a real peach aint he