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you say crap about anybody that makes you look bad. you did it to claude and whitbread and probly a few others. both them guys got skills

you need a shoulder to cry on because i wont show you more pics haha. just because you cant do any of your own work doesnt meen everyone else is down on your level

maybe jt would do it other wise CW does it all the time, they done a few for me

to cut the groove just send the oem 8ball with it and they cut the groove in the exact spot on the new bearing.

pickup the oem cr500 pancake and thrust washers. fits like a glove onto the banshee pancake unit. trans roller bearing has to be the NUP style with sides on both sides of the inner race. you can use any brand but it has to be that style of inner race. adds double the load rating over the oem 8ball. perfect for anybody wanting more reliability or on the bigger engines that may not want to use a bearing support plate. I use the german ones from ebay their $75 but some of the other brands may be cheaper. I will warn you also that you may or may not have to have the circlip groove cut in. might be some that have the groove already cut in. basically the bearing is the same size as used on the crankshaft mains. NUP 305 ECP is what im using . fig4 is the style you need http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/roller-bearings/cylindrical-roller-bearings/single-row-cylindrical-roller-bearings/basic-design-bearings/index.html not sure what to tell ya on the crank. 4 rollers is expensive and youll want straight cuts plus the cases will have to have 3 grooves cut in but if you got the coin then you could do it. other wise just use some heavier duty ball bearings. honestly I would probly just use heavier duty ball style then the crank will drop in without the extra work and money

ive freely shared info as well when I can. anyone wants to know how to make their own tank lmk. the cr500 pancake bearing is hella better than the one supplied with most the kits. roller bearing instead of the 8 ball behind the sprocket is good way to beef up the lower end on bikes that do a lot of clutch dumps

standard hotrods +4 webs, off the shelf rods nothing specially made up, standard banshee wiseco pistons moded slightly

I remember when you wouldn't even say what pressure was in your shock. pot meet kettle

some things I wont post pics of. just as jt or some other guys wont show pics of all their stuff. I showed crank but im not gonna say exactly what components im using because it took me quit a lot of research and number crunching to figure it out. somebody didn't just send me a parts list of what I needed. you may have seen the cylinders in the mostly finished form but the 'in progress' pics wont be something youll see because I gots a lot of hours welding and grinding on them. if you have a specific question I may be able to answer depending what it is

you have one or more of the following 1- 10" exh tip on a 4" pipe 2- led light bar anywhere on the vehicle 3- chip for smoke 4- big nuts on the hitch

dont forget take him some cookies. he likes choclate chip haha

unicorn cylinders ftw! i havent seen the dm so i dont know what you could do

ya im not sure starting a thread is a good idea. would have to show my spacer plate and we already know how well that would go over

for sure i wont mention theres some Suzuki parts somewhere on the crankshaft hahaha all hell break loose around here

the tire thing is about dead but just to clear it up one last time. i asked a few Utah shops for recommendations. i had no idea what tires i needed. 12 extremes (which are usually 76ro or so) was not recommended and advised against , given my setup and the hill etc etc. just like anyone else in the game, it may take a few different sets of rubber to sort it out. i may start a thread of whats going on and a brief description. just a bunch of over priced junk anyways

gee wheres all the real talk at. you send parts and open check book to someone else. all you do is tighten the chain once in a while

heres how the thread would go down bhq-what, you trenched for +4 crank ? me-ya because the rods hit the case bhq-well I have +4 and rods don't hit the case me- well im not using standard parts bhq- your a idiot why not just drop in hotrods me- because I don't want to bhq- FFS that's the stupidest thing ive heard of. nobody else does it that way. BTW your tires are to small and your handle bars are dumb

not sure brotha. gets old people mocking everything a guy does because its not 'mainstream'. I could already see a epic shitstorm if I start a thread

true dat. you catch hell no matter what. should of learned my lesson long time ago and quit posting hahaha. im convinced these guys rape your ass simply because they don't understand anything outside of their narrow tunell vision world. just like the carbon thread went sideways. they refuse to see anything outside of the box. god forbid you do something out of the ordinary. I could of dropped in a standard hotrods +4 with cub topend but that aint how I roll. fuk the haters

never said anything about jt. loco, zilla, bennet are the usual dooshes but zilla and bennet havent said much lately. locos problem is he cant stand it when someone goes against the grain and does it different or if they wont spend 5g with his sponsors.

38-40hv bro

thats correct i have many hours cutting and welding these cylinders. loco just pissed im not doing shit the same as everybody else. nothing wrong with asking advice about what tires to start with. if there wasnt dooshers like loco and others i would discuss some of the engine internals

loco itll be more power per cc than yours. idgaf what you think i should do. i do shit my own way. quit being a douche and go put them running boards on

sorry bud but its just +4 crank. no trickery. jt its forged webs

im using different rods than normal so they need small trench. nothing about this engine is cookie cutter.