ginger

that is the weak point that will creek and come loose first. they arent bushings they are rod ends. which is what i said suck about them.

i have full flights, look just like them, upper a arm is a little different but not much. and rod ends instead of ball joints, they always squeak and get play fast. buy arms with balljoints and bushings and you will be much happier. I have been looking for a good pair of balljoint bushing to pop up and swap mine out.

here is mine

what is it getting plugged with? rubber? i would say clean the tank out again, filter your gas going into the tank, and all new fuel lines.

your running way to much oil. 32:1 is stock, and most run 40:1 once tuned right.

only mistake was keeping the sprocket on the hub it looks like for powder. Same color as mine though.

anyone here is good. nothing but good things about FAST, Redline, etc.

i wouldnt fear shipping it to a sponsor here. where most of their business is 90% banshee

i think you need to pick up your motor from the guy, and take it to a known shop that isnt going to bend you over, and will build a motor that will stay together.

do you remember is the handlebars are low, medium, or high rise? What did you want for them?

weld the crank. it sounds like he isnt a high power banshee guy if he isnt recommending that.

that extra tank mount is awesome. wish i had that in hatfield trails last summer

conventional or synthetic?

do a leak down and compression test.

if you are trail riding, i would say pwk28's for carbs. your pipes should be decent for trail riding as well. I would have someone put a fresh hone, and port job on the bike. that way its setup for the longer stroke, normally whoever is doing that can also make your domes, and just set compression for which fuel you plan on running.

still lighter then the steel for sure. lol

thats what i said.

https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/snw/d/02-katana-600-on-banshee/6516644777.html this is a new one for me.

didnt know the OP new frame and suspension geometry like a pro. lol

i have had PT mids and now SLP's the slps have more power, but come in just like the PT mids.

do like tylers hill climb and field tires, get cheap mx tires and cut out every other row, they will give you the traction you want, but not get destroyed in the dirt. try launching in second instead of first.

octane should have no effect on how fast you go through plugs unless you are running way to hot. are you fouling plugs? (making them black)

if it sat flush and flex in the axle would cause it to rub, making more issues. you are good to go sir.

looks great, and no more crab walk from the rear. the factory chain tensioners suck.

i love my SLPs you are correct they take some elbow grease to get fitted. I left all the bolts loose until i had all of them started and then tightened them down. I have no leak where the stinger meets the header though. and your carb issue is due to your spacers, because i have stock boots, no spacer, and aftermarket carbs with no issues. i added a tooth to the front sprocket because they had so much more bottom end, that i could use the torque.