ginger

compression to tell if you are in the range where you need a higher octane fuel, to prevent detonation. looking for a PSI number, not just good or bad.

I have used Uni chains on equipment at work, but what my machines are work sees is way different then what a quad see's

first thing i would check is compression. Then give us your altitude and the temp you plan on riding in.

tail light does not. voltage regulator you want to make sure it is working or it will pop the bulbs quick.

I have the harness from JDS, not sure who makes his, but it was awesome.

honestly, if you want to get more mid range, a 4 mil stroker crank will help. also port work is the best bang for your buck.

i wash with simple green no problems, degreasers like castrol super clean, or the zep 505 make aluminum look like crap, and it takes a bit of work to make it look good again.

your using an aggressive cleaner, you are better off with something like simple green which is strong but not enough to hurt the aluminum.

it does lower it by opening up. and by slowiing the water down in the rad, and letting the fan or air moving through it cool it more, it does increase its ability to cool. You are correct it wont make it run any cooler than the t stat is made for, but it will increase cooling ability.

I'm not saying it will make it run cooler than the t stat is set for unless your at a point that the motor would normally run at 210 instead of the 180 thermostat. It will regulate it better to maintain the 180 rather then the 210 it would run without by controlling the flow of the water better.

you are misunderstanding. With a t stat, what i am saying is no coolant is flowing to the rad. so the motor will increase in temp, up to the 180 the t stat is set at. and while that is happening the water in the rad is being cooled more then it would be if there was no t stat. so you will see a temp drop in the rad if you are say at 100 degrees, while you will see an increase in the motor temp. once that t stat opens up it will just let enough of the cool water mix in to regulate the 180 degrees while restricting the flow of what is in the rad, letting the water in the rad cool more then if it didnt have the t stat. hence increasing cooling abilities because it has cooler water to mix in.

do you read the fucking post before you reply? My last post said with no thermostat.

if it is circulating in the head and the rad with no thermostat then the water temp leaving the head is the same as what is entering the rad.

they numbers do matter. if i didnt run the t stat, the temp would stay at 100 everywhere and slowly build to the 180 everywhere. What do i know, i only am friends with one of the largest racing radiator guys in the north east.

pre heater in the rad and block. and yes the rad will get lower because it is pulling say 70 degree air through it, while the water isnt being circulated in the rad.

i only have it on a chevy small block and big block v8, but it is basically blocking the top hose, and bypassing from the top of the water pump into the engine side of the top hose. this is the closed loop that the motor circulates the water and doesnt let any flow through the rad until the thermostat opens, at that point the rad water is cool. i have seen as much as a 90 degree split, where the motor water is 180 and the rad is at 90, and it started at 100 for both. because the fan is pulling the air through the rad, it cools the rad water down, while the motor builds heat. and once the motor is up to the t stat temp, it cracks open and lets some of that cold water in, just enough to maintain the water, then closes and starts to super cool the water in the rad again. Like i said it needs to be in a system that is made for it, and not a typical dead head t stat like most banshee or 2 strokes would have.

i mean ability not capacity. basically while the t-stat regulates the temperature of the water in the motor, it is still flowing through the rad bypass. once it gets hot enough to open the the t stat, the rad lets enough cool water in to keep it at that temp. by having the t stat, you are basically super cooling the water in the rad, by letting it sit in there longer. so when the t state opens, instead of 170 degree water coming into the motor, it may be 130 degree water coming into the motor, cooling it faster. its kind of like the thought process of using a restrictor to slow the water down to cool better in the rad, but more regulated based off of temp. If you have an issue where your cooling system isnt keeping the motor cool due to a mechanical or jetting issue, it isnt going to help, but it reality in a good cooling system, it does make it work better.

FYI not many members post on the facebook page, as it is mainly random idiots lol.

actually in the right setup a thermostat can increase cooling abilities. but it needs to be done the correct way with a bypass loop not a dead head like most cooling systems use.

your guts came out of the caps. you you arent getting a good connection causing your rough idle, dont run it like this or it will hurt the motor. Options are new wire caps, or a new coil. Honestly I cant believe you got 2 years out of plugs, Normally mine are changed every couple weekends of riding,

this is when a clymers manual would help a lot.

why would you?

wrong page JD lol

if the gas has ethanol then it is most likely causing it. ethanol is prolly burning the raw brass of the jet.

what are you running for fuel?