blubyyou

When I did my chop I rolled out in 2nd, went into 3rd and held it through 4,5,6. Got a decent smoke ring on new plugs. My plugs are good looking until I ride on them for a while...like a couple of hours or so. It really doesn't cough, burble, or anything...it just gets flat feeling as it gets ready to get on the pipe in 4-6 gear. 1-3 it is not SUPER responsive at low to mid (compared to my friends piped shee) but gets into the power band relatively good. I guess I'm gonna be the 1st person to require running 140 mains or so lol.

Now if I had a spark problem how would I track this down? Where should I begin with that. I have a clymers manual. It don't seem spark related as it run too good, just seems fat if that makes sense?

My chops back a few months ago didn't look too bad. Kevin at HJR said they looked good just maybe slightly fat. Hell it looks like I'm riding a diesel banshee by looking at the plugs. I guess I could go down a couple sizes and see. It's very difficult to get a 6th gear pull where I'm at in a sub division and I'm extremely limited on a place where I can pin it wot. It sucks! I have to drive 45 minutes just to do a plug chop. They're black from top to bottom. Tell me if I'm assuming wrong..lazy hitting the power band in 4-6 gears, little bit lacking on bottom end (could just be the port work), excessive smoking compared to other banshees...I gotta be way fat on my mains!? I just never heard of anyone running 140-145 mains on this setup. Most seem to be in the 150-155 range.

I run the Cascade clamps on my ProCircuts and love them. Excellent fit and seal..plus they look nice too.

Mods in my signature. I'm running 148 mains, 48 pilots, CEL needle in 2nd from top clip, 1.5 turns out on mixture screw. I thought my chops looked decent but I feel like its lazy getting into the power band...no bottom. It seems to struggle getting into the power band 4-6 gears. Fan the clutch a little and it will hit and pull great. I went for a ride last week and pulled my plugs tonight...they're dark black and oily. I run 927 mixed at 40:1 on 93 pump gas at around 2400 ft. When I rode my friends fmf piped banshee with V-force reeds it had instant response. I know I am going to lose some bottom with my port put figured it would be just as responsive!? What am I missing or doing wrong? I've never read of anyone running much smaller main jets. It seems like I'm off about 3 or 4 main jet sizes lol. Granted I did ride it a little lazy the last 15 minutes but ran it hard the entire time other than that. What gives? I just want this thing to pull all the way through every gear without the laziness I'm having. With my other stock banshee I always had the nice golden brown plugs. Also I noticed it smokes a little excessive. It idles great and revs nice and crisp. It's gotta be in the mains or needle...maybe both idk. I'm stumped and need some help. Sorry for the lengthy post.

Cam will this fix this problem? Reason I ask is that I have the same problem on mine too. I have a HJR 4mil and I have difficulty with 4 5 and 6. 1-3 shifts great. I was going to tear it apart and do a cut transmission. I can't really use an override since I xc/woods ride and would be back loading a lot. If this would fix my issue I'd much rather go this route.

Just measured with quad off the ground and got 17.5" center of eye to eye. Measured the actual tie rod(not including the rod ends) and they came in at roughly 13.25" so I assume they're +2 arms.

I guess that's a good thing...damn I wish they were +3's though. What is the great benefit of long travels? I mostly ride xc and maybe hit the mx just to play around. My LTR 450 is much more track friendly lol.

I measured center of the eye on them with the bike on the ground.

Thanks for posting them. I believe my elka triple rates measured out at 16.5" eye to eye on the bike, sitting on the ground. I thought they were standard travel but looking on Laegers site they looked more like the long travel arms. Idk, hopefully someone will know. Thanks DDQ!

Thanks. I will send them your way. I'd post them myself but my net at home took a crap and I can't post them from my phone.

These Laeger arms I have may be long travel arms. They look like the long travels on Laegers sight. If someone would give me their email I would send a pic.

Wheat if I decide to sell them you will be the first person in line. I'm going to check on some Laeger +3's ...if I find some reasonable I will most likely sell mine. Let me look around and see what's out there.

I hate to sell the arms since I just put new FRAP ball joints in them. I'm not for sure about the wheel offset in the front. I have Douglas wheels on it and I have quite a bit of brake caliper sticking out to the inside. I have yfz calipers on it if that matter or not. I just like the look of +3 arms so the front and rear are the same width or have the front slightly wider. I would definitely trade if someone had some +3 Laeger arms though...highly doubtful anyone would make a trade to go narrower lol.

Edit to original post...looks stupid being wider in the rear lol. I want to get the front at least even or +1 wider than the rear.

I was just looking at my banshee that I recently finished building. It had Laeger +2 a-arms on it when I bought it and an extended axle with spacers on both sides for adjustment. I first thought it was a durablue but I cant find any stamping on it so who knows it may be a G-Force. Long story short, it looks as if my rear is wider than the front. I know this isn't good for handling. I know I could just take a spacer off and narrow the rear or would I be better off getting +3 arms? I just figured with +2 arms it would be the same width with a +4 axle. IDK, I just want to get it right. Looks stupid being wider in the front. Damn I hate to get rid of Laeger arms lol.

I have an Ace swing arm on my bike. I've jumped it pretty decent and I have no complaints about it other than it isn't designed to accept a skid plate. If their a-arms are like the swing arms you won't be disappointed at all. I've called and talked to the guys at Ace and they seem to be some nice folks for what it's worth.

I will give it a shot...I thought I was a tad rich lol.

I like my pro-peg AC nerf bars. I don't know if they still make them or not for the banshee.

You said you had slack in the cable? Maybe just a minor cable adjustment at the throttle housing on the bars to take up the slack...

Mods are in my signature. I'm at 2400 ft. and my shee is bogging a little getting into the power band in 4th-6th gears. If I fan the clutch it get into it but it is a little hesitant just revving through without the clutch. I'm down to a 48 pilot, 1 1/2 turns out, needle clip one position up,and 148 mains now. Does it sound like I'm still a little rich? It rips 1-3 though and my plug chop looks pretty good. My plug was a little dark and oily but when I raised the needle clip up one it cleared that up. I think I'm close but just wanted a little advice. I'm guessing it has to be main jetting since it is a little hesitant hitting the powerband in the upper gears. Once it hits it pulls great though. Help lol.

Sorry camatv. I was actually referring to the ones in the above post. Sorry for the confusion lol.

What kind of nerfs are you running?!?! I have old school AC pro-pegs w/ heel guard...but like the look of yours much better!!

Just got off the phone with Kevin at HJR...he's gonna hook me up. N down, dunable cut 1-5, with a manual 6th gear. He assured me that I would love it and be able to backload it and it wouldn't hurt it at all. He said technology has came a long ways and it would be perfect for xc/woods riding. I think it will be awesome to bang gears without the clutch and have no fear of backloading. I hope this will fix my issues lol. Once again...Kevin to the rescue! I'm going to go ahead and put new shift forks in it along with a new shift shaft too. Should be better than new in a few weeks from now!

Thanks for all the help! I will call kevin tomorrow and get it squared away. Good reason to tear it down again since I'm gonna get new cases because mine had a pinhole leak from a bad repair job with the tig on a chain whack. This way it will be RIGHT! Sux to rip apart a fresh build with only 2-3 hours on it lol.