blubyyou

reporting back...I finally got a minute to work on it tonight. Well first off I have a new OEM cable, new Tusk clutch, new pancake bearing from HJR, new clutch springs (3 HD's and 3 OEM). I will set the clutch arm mark with the case mark, but when I go to adust out my clutch lever I'm on the last couple of threads that screw into the lever?! If the clutch arm is adjusted a little to the stator side I have about half the threads in the clutch lever. So what I'm asking is it ok to be a little closer to the stator or is it crutial to be lined up with the case mark? Also is there anyway to check the clutch to make sure it's right before putting the cover on and filling it with fluids? I notice that the center screw on the pancake bearing may be barely touching the clutch cover...would this prevent any clutch travel? I don't think this is my issue but who knows. I'm getting fed up with this adjustment issue and frustrated....I'm about to the point to take it to the dealer lol and get raped on labor! Any ideas?

By the way when I was tuning mine on my fresh build it made a bad knocking noise and it was nothing more than a little tuning with the air screws and idle screws to raise the idle. Mine sounded as if it was around the transmission in the bike but disappeared as soon as I tuned it a little. Now I just need to get my clutch adjusted and fine tune the carbs before ride season. Good luck.

Jon why don't you just bring me your shee and let me go through it all so you can get some ride time in lol! Just joking with you but seriously I don't mind to help you out with it. I have very little time off but if I had it for a few days I think I could get you going. Been a little crazy with wifey a baby due in 3 weeks lol.

I would ditch the +3 swingarm extension and look to a -swingarm instead.

Suspension is where I would start as mentioned along with quality tires to hook up. You may want to advance the timing to +4. This can be done for free by modding the stock timing plate or buying an adjustable plate for relatively cheap.

I think truthfully it's the pancake bearing adjustment/ clutch arm lining up that is causing the problem....but I'm still gonna file the fingers on the basket a little while I have it apart. Like I said, as soon as I get a little time in the next few days I will tear it down again and report back with my findings.

Troy I rode it maybe 10 minutes without any clutch...just clicking it in gear. Still no change and a stiff clutch pull lol.

I will have to drain it out anyways to service it anyways so I will check. I wouldn't think that would be it since I just put it together with all new seals and gaskets. But I will check. Is filing the clutch basket fingers a bad thing? I wouldn't think it would hurt anything really, would it?

Basket is grooved a little. Its form an 03 bike. I was thinking about filing the basket flat with a file to see what difference that makes while I have it apart.

I will get the arrows lined up on the cases and report back in a couple days when I get a chance to adjust it.

Any ideas or am I on the right track?

yes I did soak the fibers for a good 24 hours in fluid ( ATF type F) before installing them. Also the clutch arm is just a little past the arrow on the case, to the stator side. Maybe I just need adust it to where it's perfectly straight. It's like the clutch will not disengage............I can't slip the clutch or stop with out it stalling out. This sucks but I'm sure it will be worth it when I get it all worked out.

handle bar adjustment didn't do crap lol

So I just got my 4mil together today and everything running. I went to take it out for its maiden spin in my yard but when I went to put in in gear to take off it just lunged and stalled. It even lunges when I try to start it in gear. I just installed a new OEM clutch cable, HJR pancake bearing, Tusk clutch with 3 HD springs and 3 new OEM springs. I thought I had it all adjusted right but apparently not. It looked as if the clutch was working right before I put the cover on....the plates separated about half way down or a little better in the clutch pack. I wouldn't think it's from grooving? The clutch arm is just a little past the case arrow to the stator side...could this be the problem or did I mess something up on the pancake bearing install. By the way the clutch is a little stiff feeling compared to stock but I just figured it's a fresh clutch with HD springs and this is the nature of the beast. Please help me out.....I'd realy love to get this thing dialed it. If I do ride it...it isn't disengaged the clutch because I can't slip the clutch or anything.

thanks.....that's what I did.

just curious as to which roller goes on the top and bottom. its the modquad kit and i have a small roller and large roller. I put the small one on top and large one on the bottom....is this correct because it came with no instructions? Thanks. ( I can already tell that the modquad rollers are not gonna last long...the quality just don't seem to be there. I shouldv'e ordered the T.M. Design rollers to match my case saver.)

Thanks Justin! Enjoy!

yes my idle screws are in quite a bit to be honest.....

That's what kevin at HJR had recommended to me ...- have not got to ride it. I'm waiting on my chain. I just started it and it had great throttle response but it fouled the right side plug. Idled high for about three seconds then fouled. Idk. I'm new to jetting. I need help bad lol.

98MonsterShee I just received your payment. Item will be shipped out monday and I will provide you a tracking #. Thank you for the fast payment. ITEM IS SOLD!!!!

98MonsterShee you have a pm.

here's the order it will be sold in to be fair: 1) DYNAMITE 2)98MonsterShee 3)Nieskes I went back and checked the times that pm's and post were sent......sorry for the confusion but I want to be fair. $135 shipped ...be sure to add 3% for paypal fee's.

I will let you know if he backs out...thanks.

Thanks sfreak76 !!!

I will do 135 shipped. Its still in the package with all the hardware. It just needs domes. Let me know.