blubyyou

just as I posted I have a new, never opened or used Noss coolhead (does NOT included domes)...I will take $160 shipped. It's brand new and you get free shipping so you save a few bucks....thanks.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated....I need all the help I can get on this. Thanks

sfreak76 is an awsome buyer.....good communication and quick payment!!! Thanks again!!!!!

mods as follows: 4mil, dune/play HJR ported stock cylinders, +4 timing, chariot intake, chariot reed cages w/ crossover, Noss head with 21 cc domes, open airbox w/ ProFlow setup and K&N, Pro Circuit pipes, PWK 35 Air Striker carbs. I ride around 1800-2400 ft. ( West Virginia terrain) 93 pump gas mixed at 40:1 with Maxima 927 weather ranging from 70*-85* using BR8ES plugs gapped at 30 I'm using a CEL needle currently in the middle notch, air screws out 1 turn, I believe I put in 150 mains & 48 pilots if I'm not mistaking (it's late and I have it wrote down in my notes in the garage). Does this sound fairly close? Starts on the first kick and idles pretty good. I just fouled a plug while adjusting the idle on it on the right side. I've been reading and from what I gather I need to set my air screw around 1-1.5 turns out, set the idle, ride to see if it feels lazy getting into the powerband/ main jet, get that right ...then do some plug chops to test the main jet on top? Someone help me out...I'm new to jetting banshees as it's been ten years since I've had one. I have became very used to my fuel injected ltr 450 and using a power programmer for tuning lol. Please don't flame me as I spend countless hours searching and reading on here trying to relearn everything I have lost over the years about the banshee.

I need the little plastic collar that the spring under the carb cap rests on. I lost mine when it shot across the garage. So now I'm running without one. Just pm me if you do. Thanks.

I believe its the same cable for both carbs.

Well much to my relief I wake up thismorning and see what everyone has posted!!!!! I feel soooo much better about it now! Thank you for all your replies and advise....I think I will replace the brass bushing when I replace my clutch basket in the next few week with a new/ aftermarket piece as the original was a little grooved when I put it in with my new clutch. Thank you all once again!!!!

it's not the kick starter for sure.....not a rattle...it's almost a knock. But its at the rear of the case like in the tranny......weird.

almost like a knock....goes away as soon as it is a little above idle.

Thank you!!!! That was just the answer I was looking for!!!

Well I finally got to start my new 4mil HJR dune/play ported motor today for the first time !!!! I just kicked it over, only took 2 kicks, and it fired right up....all is good. I didn't have any sprockets or chain on the bike yet...I just wanted to see if it would fire. Well when I let it idle it has a rattling noise coming from inside the case back around the sprocket in the tranny? It goes away as soon as I bring it slightly off idle. This has me puzzled as I followed the clymers manual during install. Is this just normal and nothing to be concerned with? I sure hope I don't have to pull it back apart after all that work lol. I have not put it in gear since I have no sprocked or chain on it....could it posibly be where it has no tension from the chain? Maybe I'm just paranoid. If it helps mods are: 4mil, HJR dune/play port, Noss head w/21 cc domes, Chariot reed cages, Chariot intake w/ crossover, PWK 35 A/S carbs, ProFlow w/ K&N open air box, modded shift star, pancake bearing, Pro Circuits......thats all the motor work.

I just finished building my banshee ground up and can't remember where the hose that comes from the clutch side cover goes. I know it comes from the cover and y's. Does one end go to the rear vent on the top of the case and the other just go down like the carb vent lines and just hang down? Does it get routed up or am I all wrong as to where it goes? Hope someone knows as I plan on starting my new HJR 4mil ported motor tonight. Thank for the help in advance.

Would u consider selling the pods? I may be interested in them. PM me if you would. Thanks

Thanks for the advise. I will grind it out and use the regular stuff until I get it welded in a few weeks.

Well today I did quite a bit of research at work (slow day), I came home drained the oil and flipped the bike up on it's side. Just as I had guessed when they tigged it up they left a very tiny pin hole...I mean very tiny!!!! So I ground it down with my dremmel, brake cleaned it, and used some JB 4 minute epoxy on it. I'm letting it sit overnite then tomorrow I will add oil and see if it leaks or not. However this is not a permanent fix. I will get it jetted and broke in first then I plan to drain the oil again, clean up the spot again, and take the bike to get it tigged in that spot. I was freaking out at first but I think this can be fixxed with no proplem at all.

I just put in my new 4mil kit and my cases had the chain whack damage but I had it tigged up before. All looked great until I added tranny fluid last night and there must be a pinhole in the weld because it dripping a little on the ground. My question is will a little JB weld be good enough or could I get it tigged again to fix it without pulling the motor? Its on the bottom right at the shifter boss if this helps. I don't believe its bad at all. The weld looked great, it must me a pinhole through the weld that isn't visible to the eye. Needless to say this is discouraging as I could have just bought new cases for a few hundred and never had this issue as I thought I had it fixed properly. Oppinions on how to fix this?

thank you so much!!! I thought I was close on the what I was doing but this is exactly what I was looking for!

also yellow from stator is cut and unused? black from stator is grounded to frame or unused? I'm realy not for sure....the more I try to figure it out and read the more confused I become lol.

First off I have been reseaching, read my Clymers, also studied the "electrical FAQ" section...so please help me out. I think I'm rather close on this but want to cut and solder once. I will be running only a Pro Design tether, no on/off switch, no lights, no TORS....just the very basic wires. Orange cdi wire to orange coil red/black to black spliced together on cdi black/white cdi to tether switch wire black coil wire goes to??? (ground to frame or to other tether wire.....not for sure) other black tether wire to the black coil wire as stated above or ground to the frame...(not for sure) I hope someone knows as this will complete my wiring and I can get it up and running this weekend. Thanks in advance as I'm sure someone will know exactly what to do.

I mostly ride trails and I'm gonna ditch my box and go with the pods too...I think I will be fine. Just try to avoid the deep water. Glad u got it to work out!

Stock carbs with TORS and throttle cable. These were in a bunch of stock parts that I had when I bought my project banshee. $50 shipped obo within reason. Thanks.

I have one cylinder for sale. It's the right side (sitting on the bike). Cylinder is unported and in need of a bore. The left cylinder is trashed due to the fact the previous owner bent a rod on that side exploding the piston ruining it beyond repair. I'm not for sure what size it's on because I threw the Wiseco piston away that had a size on it. Anyways $50 shipped and it's yours as I have no need for it.

item is sold.............thanks.

I have also used All Balls in the past with good results. I used them in my banshee that I recently built from ground up and I have ran them two years now in my LTR 450 with zero issues. Also used them in a TRX 250R that I built too (sold it and wish I wouldv'e kept it ). If you're using the factory carrier I would deffinately suggest a grease zerk be installed along with the anti- sieze as mentioned above!

I don't know if this would help but with my PWK 35's my stock boots would not fit to the airbox either. I ran across a how-to topic on duncanracing.com ....click on tech, carbs, and banshee ...you will see it. This mod was for 34 and 35 carbs but it just might work on your 28's too. Basically you cut the boot right behind the little ring around the small end where it starts to get bigger.....this allows you to strech it over the carb easier and just use a hose clamp to attach it back on your carb. Be sure it don't put you a little short on mounting back your airbox....I didn't have this problem with the larger 35's. Let me know how that works. Sometimes putting rubber in hot water for a few minutes will let it strech easier so you may want to try that first befor you go cutting your boots up. Hope this helps you out some.