well i have a sproket hub that uses a honda rear sproket. so i can just buy the one for a trx450. , i would just need to see if one of those rotor guards would work with my round house swig-arm. and bling star makes better ones i think.
i have used the tool. first start by making it idle right. i think mine read like 5 on the scale, then set the slides adjustment. now on mine i was only able to open the thottle a little because too much would peg the scale.i have a thumb thottle and just srecwed the stop srcew all the way in. and yes if one side seems to idle where you want it them just make the other side match.
white smoke can mean a bad head gasket. try to re-tighen the head bolts.it might be a very tiny leak and whe it getts hott things expand and it might seal when hot, but leak when cold.jmo
i won't be their at opening but i will be their around 9:30-10. with the banshee and my freind on a RM250. any body esle bring someone with a dirtbike? just wondering.
measure from the center of the rim (where it bolts to hub) to the outer lip. do inner and outer . you should be around 3 on the inner/5 on the outer for a total of 8 inches.
u could have water in the crank or in the pipes. or you could have bad spark plugs. pull the spark plugs and pipes. then stand it on the front bumber and kick over the motor a few times to see if any water come out. also get a new set of spark plugs befor re-starting.
no, because you should have a zerk fitting to grease the bearing. soo the two inner bearing can't have seals and the outer two bearings only have one seal on the outer. now if yo don't care about greasing it or if you don't have a zerk fitting for some odd reason then i quess you can use two sets of stock bearings.you can get a set for the twin carrier from jjandaracing.com
these ads are all over CL. i seen them with crotch rockets,cars,trucks,sleds,atvs, and it's all ways the same story of some guy getting shipped-out in the army.
for the boots, i just bolted them on. and i only had two o-rings. the little one goes around the two small srcews and the bigger one went aound the whole thing. their are grooves for these o-rings to fitt in.
i have the same set-up. i didn't use any yamabond just the o-rings it came with. and i made them as tight as i could with-out stripping or pulling up any treads. seals great.
flipping the rears won't hurt anything. you can buy rim with that offset. but when it comes to the front, you will have to mod your rims or get different offset ones. the valve stem will hit the brake caliper.i personally like 3 inside 5 out.
not to be an ass but i wouldn't bother. For one when you buy some cranks it comes with a spacer plate(viteos). second like aboe no one really runs them. and if you were to sell them, they only sell for about 35 so you would have to sell it for less than that. but if you do want to i belive 2mm thick for a +4 with 110 rods.
you know thats not 4.99 american money right. it has that oversea money sign. plus its coming from the UK and last time i oredered somting from the UK to the US it took 6 months to get it. unless you live near the UK.
that is true on older cars, but now a days newre cars,trucks use sealed roller ball bearings (hub bearing assembly)as found on a twin ball carrier. just sayin. besides i own a twin carrier.lol. both would be nice though. i personally like the idea of having an extra set of bearings in my carrier.jmo
i could be wrong, but i don't think the bore size matters on porting.crank size however does. so if you have a stock crank with ported cyclinders, you can't use a +4 mill crank with the jugs.And yes if you are 80 over and want to port them you can.
shit, i don't care how fine or great the pussy is. No and i mean no pussy is worth my shee. women age like milk banshees age like wine only gets better.lol